Hello - these interesting flutes recently came into my possession.
http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/araisharish/library/old%20unidentified%20flutes%208-key%20D%20and%201-key%20F
The photos show the condition as rec’d. I appreciate any info you can share regarding the country of origin, maker, approximate age, and other sage advice they may call to mind.
I think they are late 19th or early 20th century, but if anyone can help date them that is appreciated. I’m guessing they share the same maker because of the treatment of the foot, with the wood extending past the last silver ring (ring is missing on the 1-key) and key similarity.
The 8 key concert flute I believe to be a D. bottom hole keys articulate to close the holes, I guess for sounding the D properly or venting other notes?
The 1-key is approximately an F flute.
I plan to get them hydrated (slowly) and clean them. Any advice or techniques regarding cleaning the grunge without damaging the finish is appreciated. Once they are cleaned up hopefully I will be able to repair the crack / leaks, and any other issues and get them sounding like flutes again. ; )
Best,
Deisman
I have restored several flutes of this type. The treatment of the foot and the crown/adjuster are not diagnostic of a particular maker, but rather are generic. Several of the flutes I have worked on had ‘Dealer’s’ stamps on the headjoint and barrel, showing them to have been sold in New York City. The flutes I have with these identifying marks could be as old as from 1860 to 1890. A bright light and magnification may reveal faint stamps. . .or not.
I would be curious to know the diameter of the exit bore of the ‘D’ flute,and if you can observe any significant ‘flaring out’ of the final inch or so of the foot bore.
The ones I have are not of the cheapest grade of flutes, such as the “Nach Meyer” flutes that flooded the country through Sears and Montgomery Wards. Where they were made is difficult to establish with precision. Some are fairly good players at A=440, but the proof of that pudding is in the eating!
Bob
Thanks Bob - I will get the measurement tomorrow. I suppose flutes of this type are not necessarily of American make even if sold in NY.
Thanks for sharing.
Deisman
There was a flourishing group of flutemakers during this period of time. The best makers clearly marked their work. There were other flutes made in both New York City and Upper State New York (Flute Ville). If you search about there is some documentation of this but very sketchy. During the period of time I cited there were tariffs in place to protect US based manufacturers, so overseas instruments were generally either quite good. . .or quite poor. Toward the end of the Century the tariffs were either removed or reduced and this led to the flood of flutes sold by mass marketers like Sears ( of ‘Good’,‘Better’, and ‘Best’ fame). These were primarily ‘Nach Meyer flutes’ of ebony and some Blackwood, often with Ivory Headjoints. I’ve been told that during the protectionist period it was fairly common for craftsmen in America to buy keys and other fittings from overseas since they were ‘for repair’, and not subject to such high tariffs. The turnery was then done here in America. This leads to some curious anomalies. . .like flutes with seemingly ‘french’ or ‘german’ style keys but internal profiles and scales that were closer to the better American made flutes.
Bob
Both appear to be D flutes - a photo of them alongside each other would confirm that. An F flute would not have an overall length greater than c 20" and, lined up by embouchure, the different scale length would be very obvious. If you can give the sounding lengths (in mm for preference) I can make a guess at what pitch they were built for. The 8-keyer is near certainly of German/Bohemian origin - although the straight G# and the lack of spun metal end caps make it less than typical, it still has most of the main notable “nach Meyer” features and other features are common on that type of German flute without matching the stereotype fully, e.g. the crown. The 1-keyed is most likely of similar origins, but that is less clear cut.
Oh, and the lowest, open-standing keys give the low C# and C when closed!
Short of finding stamps you aren’t going to be able to say anything clearer about origin. They don’t look sufficiently similar to me to speculate that they might be from the same maker. Dates-wise, anything from c1880 - 1940 is possible.
Jem - you were right these both are D flutes. I dunno how I was so off, but the 1 key sure looked smaller before. : )
Bob - I do notice some flaring of the bore in the last inch or two before the end, more so on the 1-key than the 8 but noticeable when looked for on both foot joints. Is that significant in some way? Tuning trick?
ok - here are the spec’s
8-key length from center of embouchure to end of flute is 22.75" or 896mm (using tape measure)
8-key length from center of embouchure to c# key is 19.75" or 777.5mm
8-key bore I.D. at the very bottom of the flute is 11.6 mm (measured with digital caliper)
1-key length from center of embouchure to end of flute is 20.75" or 817mm
1-key bore I.D. at bottom of flute / foot is 12.25mm (digital caliper)
I noticed that the 1-key head is unlined, which should make it easier to fix the crack through the embouchure. Also the finger holes for both L and R hand are noticeably larger than on the 8-key. I can measure them tomorrow if that is helpful.
To get going on the restoration I plan to remove the keys and all wrapping, loose metal, etc. and clean the grunge on the wood using soft rags dampened with warm soapy water and loosening dirt in cracks where needed with an old tooth-brush and Q-tips. I generally use Naptha (lighter fluid) for cleaning areas of tape residue or other scum that a damp rag fails to remove. For the metal I plan to follow up with a fine rubbing compound or silver jeweler’s rouge to bring them back up to buff. If you don’t mind sharing your expertise, I’m wondering if this is a good way to approach restoring these flutes, or if I should consider a different approach?
Best,
Deisman
W-e-l-l. . .I think Jem is using a very broad brush by saying these flutes are of German/bohemian origin.
I’m not sure, but the eight key flute appears to have a reddish cast to the wood. Is this the case? Jem has a very UK-centric POV about old flutes. As an accident of Geo-politics during the colonial era most German/bohemian flutes were sourced from Ebony and Blackwood. I’ve personally never seen one of the mass produced Nach Meyer type flutes from any sort of cocus or rosewood. Close examination under a bright light may reveal some indication of the wood. French, British, and American flutes, and I’ve even seen a Swiss Flute all of some sort of extremely dark red wood. . .quite probably cocus.
Does the eight key flute have some sort of finish on it? You can use what Jem in his inimitably Anglo-centric fashion calls ‘meths’ to clean up the grunge. I find Isopropyl alcohol, either 91% or 99% will do the job and are easily obtainable at the pharmacy. I Use Behlen Qualisole Padding Finish to fix up and repair the finish on my old flutes. Wet-dry papers of 600 grit and up, up to 2000 grit and crocus cloth to buff out the finish after and repair type work. JonC can possibly chime in here. Jem of course has pages and pages of his restoration work on his Facebook page.
You of course will have to determine if you feel the flute is worth the effort to restore. You appear to be missing keys. This is problematic and seriously lessens the value, if any of the flute after you repair the cracks and finish.
I have an anonymous flute with nearly identical keywork. It lacks the broad bands on the tuning barrel, and is slightly longer in SL-perhaps
three-sixteenths of an inch. With about five-sixteenths of an inch tuning slide extension it easily plays at A=440 with a slightly flat foot and well in tune across two octaves. Because it appears to be made of cocus, I rather doubt it is of German/bohemian origin. However, while it has moderate volume, it doe not have a hugely strong bottom D and will never be considered a session cannon. I would guess it might be worth a couple of hundred USD.
After cleaning the flute up, and stripping the keys you have off, you will need to temporarily fit up the joints in an air tight fashion. PTF tape will do for a very temporary test. Plug the key holes with wax or blu-tac. Make sure the cork is good, replace if necessary. Give it a Blow and see what you’ve got. If you don’t have a well developed flute embouchure, you may have to enlist a friend who does.
You might view this as a learning project and consider any money you have in it as part of the cost of tuition. I’m certain I might be able to help you along, and JonC, and even Jem as well.
The flare at the foot is an attempt to overcome some of the tendency to a flat foot. Not always successful. The exit size leads me to believe this to be a relatively quiet flute. . .but playing alone will tell.
Best of luck
Bob