Beak Guard

[hans]

Is there a good way to add a kind of "beak guard" to aluminium whistle beaks, so the lips, inner mouth and tongue do not come into contact with the aluminium? I am fed up with aluminium taste, and rather have an inert plastic barrier.

Thanks for any tips!
Hans

[brewerpaul]

Clear tape?
Clear nail polish?

[jemtheflute]

Is there a good way to add a kind of "beak guard" to aluminium whistle beaks, so the lips, inner mouth and tongue do not come into contact with the aluminium? I am fed up with aluminium taste, and rather have an inert plastic barrier.

Thanks for any tips!
Hans

Horrid, aren't they? That is one major reason I don't like all-metal whistles. They actually set up a low electrical current in your saliva, especially if you have any metal fillings! I stick to wooden or plastic headed whistles as far as possible. I find the metal ones very often have what I would regard as uncomfortably shaped beaks too......

Just a thought - I haven't had occasion to try this - could you get some kind of hard-setting acrylic spray.... mask off the borders of the area you want covered and make sure no spray can get into the wind-way, spray it, wait for it to harden...... I wonder if car paint might do the trick?

Another idea - wouldn't be a hard-surface finish mind.... What about heat-shrink plastic cable casing? It's thin, cheap and easily available from an electrical/computer store. You could put a slightly out-size piece over the beak, heat shrink it on and then trim with a sharp knife. It would fit itself to the contours very snugly and wouldn't be a bulky addition. If you didn't like it, it would be easy to remove. Likewise, if it proved not very durable it would be easy to repeat at need. It is black, so would look fairly smart if done tidily.

[narrowdog]

Is there a good way to add a kind of "beak guard" to aluminium whistle beaks, so the lips, inner mouth and tongue do not come into contact with the aluminium? I am fed up with aluminium taste, and rather have an inert plastic barrier.

Thanks for any tips!
Hans

Horrid, aren't they? That is one major reason I don't like all-metal whistles. They actually set up a low electrical current in your saliva, especially if you have any metal fillings! I stick to wooden or plastic headed whistles as far as possible. I find the metal ones very often have what I would regard as uncomfortably shaped beaks too......

Just a thought - I haven't had occasion to try this - could you get some kind of hard-setting acrylic spray.... mask off the borders of the area you want covered and make sure no spray can get into the wind-way, spray it, wait for it to harden...... I wonder if car paint might do the trick?

Most Motorfactors will sell a spray tin of lacquer for polished aluminium like motorcycle engine casings. They dry very hard so there shouldn't be any problem with taste there, they do tend to be a bit smelly(you can insert the word TOXIC here ) as they're drying so spray them outside or in a well ventilated garage, but once dry there is no problem.

FWIW I have 2 all aluminium whistles and have had no problem with taste, never noticed it,
but then maybe I'm just not as sensitive as you guys

[Tim2723]

Do be carefull what you put in your mouths, fellas. Many of the spray-on, dip-on sorts of products aren't meant for that sort of human contact. They can remain fairly nasty even after they're dried and the smell goes away. If I were going to use a paint on coating, I'd choose something that carries a safety rating for use in food handling equipment.

[jstomel]

Agreed. Just because something is sold for cosmetic use on fingers or cars doesn't mean you should stick it in your mouth for hours at a time on a regular basis. Get something that is rated for use in drinkware. At lots of Renn fairs and suchlike I see metal and leather cups that have been impregnated with some sort of clear plastic resin which is apparently safe to drink from. You might talk to one of those people and find out what they use. Alternately, as long as you aren't the sort of person who bites the end of their whistle you might try a thin coating of parafin wax painted on with a small paint brush. This has the advantage that you should be able to get the parafin back off if you don't like it by dunking in hot water.

[MTGuru]

Clear tape?
Clear nail polish?

Different whistle?

If it's an Overton, I'd try:

1) Coat the underside with a clear nail lacquer or similar, carefully brushed on. Just as would be done with a vintage lead-fipple block whistle. Maybe a dab on the sides of the beak as well.

2) Take a clarinet or saxophone mouthpiece cushion, cut it to shape and size, and affix it to the top of the beak. That should avoid any question of toxicity.

Of the umpteen whistles in my collection, only the Overtons have exposed aluminum at the tip, and it bothers me not at all.

The paraffin idea is not bad, either.

[hans]

Thanks for all the ideas so far!
I am still waiting to hear from somebody who actually tried some sort of beak guard.

It does not really matter which make the whistle is, as long it has aluminium in the beak which can be touched. Whistles in my collection who got this are Overtons, Chieftains and Syms, the latter in the beak sandwich construction. All of those bother me. There are probably lots of other makes.

A bit of molded surgical rubber would be nice, which one could pop on and off a beak.
Is there anything like that on the market?

Cheers,
~Hans

[MTGuru]

A bit of molded surgical rubber would be nice, which one could pop on and off a beak.
Is there anything like that on the market?

Guess you could try cutting a section from the small finger of a latex glove, and stretching it around the beak as a kind of collar.

[AngeloMeola]

A bit of molded surgical rubber would be nice, which one could pop on and off a beak.
Is there anything like that on the market?

Guess you could try cutting a section from the small finger of a latex glove, and stretching it around the beak as a kind of collar.

I would avoid latex because of the allergy potential. Maybe nitrile would work. The local hospital has gone to using nitrile gloves and eliminated latex completely.

Angelo

[hans]

Thanks for the warnings!
I am suspicious about using electrical tape or heatshrink sleeving, as it is made of PVC and I would not know what may be leaking out.

I just tried one thing, which seems to work at least temporarily:
I used PTFE tape, which is used in plumbing to seal threaded joints. I wrapped it around the beak loads of times, making a kind of bandage. The tape has no adhesive, but clings to itself fairly well. The tape I used is white, so the beak looks a bit odd with this white bandage. It is thin enough and does not get in the way of feeling the beak. It could be removed anytime without leaving any trace on the whistle.

Still looking for other options.

Cheers,
~Hans

[DrPhill]

A bit of molded surgical rubber would be nice, which one could pop on and off a beak.
Is there anything like that on the market?
~Hans

Dare I suggest a bit off the end of a condom?

Oh dear, that was meant to be serious but I can hear the thread going horribly off-topic...........

[Whistler Bard]

Well it's hard to not comment the condom one...but I'l try!

As for the original problem, I'd go for some sort of tape like the one you are already using. If it's easily removable and doesn't stain the aluminium I guess it's good.

Cheers!

[AvienMael]

As an electrician, I would advise against the heat shrink tubing. There are two types = one that has a heat-activated glue on the inside which is a known irritant, and the other type that doesn't have glue on it...and probably won't stay on. Plus it's a violation of NFPA-70E to use any material in any manner or application that is not consistent with it's labeling...I wouldn't want to have to report anyone to their local code enforcement officer

[MTGuru]

I wouldn't want to have to report anyone to their local code enforcement officer

There's a whistle code??