Have a look at the pictures of it I've posted on the lichen thread, Loren. May not be engineering straight, but by eye........ Not bad, huh?Loren wrote:Sorry, I don't believe that. Dead straight after all this time? Uh uhn. It may look so and you can't really tell as easily with that big Eb block and key, but if we were to check it, that flute has some warpage, I'd put money on it. One of these days perhaps we'll be at the same flute event of some sort, and we'll put it to the test.jemtheflute wrote:See the flute in my current "avatar"? It's boxwood. It's c190 years old. It's as straight as a ruler.
Loren
How to make anti-roll feature for keyless Delrin flute?
- jemtheflute
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I respect people's privilege to hold their beliefs, whatever those may be (within reason), but respect the beliefs themselves? You gotta be kidding!
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Until he got a keyed flute, one local fellow had a little rubber toy in the image of a gorilla, the sort that you could hang off of a drinking glass, that he'd have grip his flute when he wasn't playing it. Worked a treat, was great for conversation, and we called it "The Flute Monkey".
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Not at all the same thing I was talking about, but it could do, couldn't it.
No, the one in question looked "real", and didn't have wires in the limbs; it was just shaped a certain way that allowed it to grip the flute.
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Two more questions.
First, is it possible to work with the cap if one were to build an anti-roll feature into a flute? I can't answer this question because my flute isn't of a normal construction. Mine is a Casey Burns with wrought iron rings. The rings all touch the table, but these rings have wrought iron leaves attached to them.
So, on a simple-looking flute, would the cap actually touch the table enough to matter?
On to #2... we've talked mostly about adding something to the flute.
Another possible solution would be subtract. What if the tuning slide had one side which was just barely reduced or filed? That side could be placed opposite the holes to keep them off the table. I suppose the main concern would be weakening the slide and adding to the risk of cracking.
First, is it possible to work with the cap if one were to build an anti-roll feature into a flute? I can't answer this question because my flute isn't of a normal construction. Mine is a Casey Burns with wrought iron rings. The rings all touch the table, but these rings have wrought iron leaves attached to them.
So, on a simple-looking flute, would the cap actually touch the table enough to matter?
On to #2... we've talked mostly about adding something to the flute.
Another possible solution would be subtract. What if the tuning slide had one side which was just barely reduced or filed? That side could be placed opposite the holes to keep them off the table. I suppose the main concern would be weakening the slide and adding to the risk of cracking.
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I'm confused, in the first post you mentioned that you are having the flute made, but this sounds as if it is already done? Or are you talking about two different flutes?azw wrote:Two more questions.
First, is it possible to work with the cap if one were to build an anti-roll feature into a flute? I can't answer this question because my flute isn't of a normal construction. Mine is a Casey Burns with wrought iron rings. The rings all touch the table, but these rings have wrought iron leaves attached to them.
With regards to the wrought iron rings with leaves:
A) Sounds cool, would love to see pictures!
B) Wouldn't these rings (with the leaves) keep the flute from rolling?
As for filing the tuning slide, not sure what you mean here, as the tuning slide would touch the table, and would work being filed flat in a spot. Must be that I'm misunderstanding your idea. But then that happens a lot with me, particularly after all the glue I sniffed corking tenons
Loren
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Yes, this is a different flute. I like the Burns a lot, but I'm going to have a new Delrin flute made so I can leave put together by the computer. I find that I don't pull out the Burns when I just have a few minutes to toot.
A few of the leaves on the Burns flute just barely touch the table. There are raised rings on the bands that touch first, so the leaves don't touch the table enough to prevent rolling. Pity. That would have worked.
Here's a couple of photos of the Burns with foliage. (If you click on them, you can see larger versions.) I should re-photograph them in better lighting.
A few of the leaves on the Burns flute just barely touch the table. There are raised rings on the bands that touch first, so the leaves don't touch the table enough to prevent rolling. Pity. That would have worked.
Here's a couple of photos of the Burns with foliage. (If you click on them, you can see larger versions.) I should re-photograph them in better lighting.