Threads

[sbfluter]

So recently I was given the advice by my flute maker to use double E synthetic (I assume that would be polyester) thread if I want to replace the thread on my tenon. He also mentioned something about linen but that is hard to find.

They don't have many shops for sewing anymore it seems. So I went to what passes for one. None of the thread is marked double E. The only letters on the thread were pricing codes.

I did find some linen embroidery thread. I am wondering if that might be good to use. I could unwind individual strands. I think I have heard of others who have used embroidery thread. What do you think? And why is linen any good?

[crookedtune]

How is it that with two Casey Burns flutes, each less than a year old, you're replacing tenon thread?

Anyway, what I do is add a few windings of waxed dental floss when they feel too loose --- and remove them when the joint feels too tight. I'd think twice about undoing your professional maker's recent work!

[skh]

You need to use thread that does not swell when it gets wet, because that increases the danger of cracks at the sockets. Any synthetic will do. If your flute maker recommends linen, then linen will be fine as well. I've heard that cotton thread swells too much, so I don't use it, but to be honest I haven't run any experiments.

I assume the 'EE' denotes the thickness. Thicker thread means that re-threading takes a bit less time, but you need some patience either way. Any thickness used for sewing clothes will be fine enough.

(Bold statements, I know. Use common sense, and remember, I'm just the internet.)

peace,
Sonja

[rama]

i am also wondering why unravel thread that the maker has put on. for joint snugness, add/ subtract small amounts of thread as needed. i use waxed dental floss myself. it is a different color than the original thread, makes it easy to spot if i need to remove it from the tenon if the joint gets too tight (or to floss my teeth).

[sbfluter]

I have a used flute and the thread is too tight. When it is humid and I play for a few hours it can take as much as a day and a half to be able to take my flute apart.

I attempted to remove a layer of thread, however, whoever wound it wounded it irregularly so I ended up with bare wood on the top half of the tenon and a fat thickness of thread on the bottom half.

So, I would like to redo it a little more evenly.

[rama]

ah, that explains it. fyi i think there are instructions on the 'net somwhere to aid someone in rewinding thread onto a tenon should you feel the need for some. (unfortuantely i don't have that link, otherwise i'd share it here.) good luck.

[Denny]

Clive Catterall has some instructions
http://www.flutes.fsbusiness.co.uk/tenon.html

this is more like normal maintenance than rocket science...

here is a recent thread on thread

[colomon]

I thought Casey Burns recommended using bassoon reed thread? That's what I did, any way; it's pretty readily available online from double reed shops.

[jemtheflute]

I'm sure I've written this somewhere before, but can't find it, whoa, yes I can - got it! Wasn't on C&F but in a private letter. Yur 'tiz.

For thread lapping, I would sincerely advise you to have a go yourself - easy stuff to do and only costs the materials. Shop woodwind techs won't usually do it, and once you've taught yourself to do it, you'll be independent in that regard. If you get thread lapping wrong, just have another go. It is very low risk - just don't force joints together if they are too tight - unwind some thread! There are various online descriptions of how to do it - on Bleazey's website for starters, so I shouldn't need to write an essay on that! I'd just say that I use embroidery "silk" threads - it isn't silk, but cotton. Comes in skeins in a myriad of colours - choose one you like, but remember it will darken considerably with the grease. It has six loosely twisted strands (make sure you get that type - there are others that won't split): I unravel the skein and split it into two sets of three strands - separate/untwist them the whole length of the skein, being careful not to tangle it, then wind the two resulting strings up around your hand. The three thin, loosely twisted strands lay more easily to a good flat finish as you lay the lapping than do hard-twisted sewing threads, including the conventional linen thread, which I have never found a good source of anyway. This stuff can be found in any haberdasher. I wind it onto the tenons quite tightly, greasing each layer generously with cork grease as I go. It will absorb quite a lot of grease both as you go and for a few weeks once done. I've used this for 20+ years on my R&R with no ill effect. Tends to wear out and need re-doing about every three years or so, depending on use. One skein will be more than enough for three tenons.

In conjunction with the advice already given and the "thread" thread link plus the weblink, this should see you sorted. I have never had any problem with the cotton thread I use swelling. As I said above, I've used the embroidery thread on my R&R and several other flutes for many years and none of them have either seized up due to swelling or cracked the sockets. I have had joints semi-seize due to build up of hardened grease, though, especially when I used a beeswax and rosin mixture for a while (on the advice of and supplied by Paul Davis!). Warming them up (in the hands) usually solves that, though, and it is a sign that you'll soon need to re-lap the joint. If I could easily (I'm lazy) find a source of thin, loosely spun linen thread, I'd use that, but I only ever seem to be able to find the thick and tight spun button thread.

[Denny]

....and you could always start with just rewrapping the thread that is one it...

[Aanvil]

I'm using embroidery thread as well.

I made a grease from my own recipe of beeswax and walnut oil and applied it hot onto the wrapped threads then wiped the excess away.

Essentially water proofing the threads in the process.

It looks rather tidy and I don't think it will seize up.

Piece of cake.