Question On Keyed Flutes

[Wannabe-Piper]

Hey,

Going to upgrade to a keyed flute soon- what keys should i get?

[Jayhawk]

That would depend on what you want out of a keyed flute and what you can afford.

For ITM only - you could get by with G#, both Fnats, and Cnat. Bb and Eb are so rarely used, and Bb is easy to half hole.

If you want a fully chromatic flute on a budget - get Fnat (your choice, short Fnat is traditional though), Eb, G# and Bb. This will allow you to play just about any type of music you want.

If you can afford it, it's hard to go wrong with a 6 or 8 keyed flute.

Eric

[jim stone]

Right. 6 key if you can afford it. 8 is probably more than
you'll need for some time, e.g. indefinitely.

[KateG]

The philosopher urges restraint, and suggests 6 keys. I, on the other hand, urge wild sensuous abandon and say go for all eight!

[jim stone]

Well, you're on the right side of things.
How can one disagree with wild sensuous abandon?

[Cubitt]

I think if you're going to invest in keys, it would be poor judgment to not go for eight keys. You can cross-finger the rest, but if you don't have the final three, there's nothing you can do to get those notes. If you can't afford them, wait. If you think you won't use them, wait. Unless you want to get into buying and selling flutes (which may be okay for you, but not for me), get what you should get instead of getting second best.

Just an opinion, but it's mine.

Cheers.

[Jayhawk]

Just two more thoughts on the key issue:

1) Keys require extra care and can leak. While you shouldn't need to repad too often, it is necessary from time to time, and if you accidentally whack a key, it can be bent/knocked out of alignment a bit. You also have to cover them when oiling. The more keys you have the more frequently you will have a problem.

2) Regarding 4 vs. 6 vs. 8 keys - where does this key build up stop? Why not go for an old Vienna made flute all the way down to low G? The reality is there will always be notes lower than you can play.

I've had 4, 6 and 9 keyed flutes. No flute is perfect, but the automatic assumption that more keys is better is just whacky - if so, why aren't we all bidding on this 13 keyed flute on eBay: http://search.ebay.com/13-key-flute_W0QQfkrZ1QQfromZR8

I really think it all comes down to what you want to do with the flute as I mentioned at first.

Eric

[Cubitt]

Just two more thoughts on the key issue:

1) Keys require extra care and can leak. While you shouldn't need to repad too often, it is necessary from time to time, and if you accidentally whack a key, it can be bent/knocked out of alignment a bit. You also have to cover them when oiling. The more keys you have the more frequently you will have a problem.

2) Regarding 4 vs. 6 vs. 8 keys - where does this key build up stop? Why not go for an old Vienna made flute all the way down to low G? The reality is there will always be notes lower than you can play.

I've had 4, 6 and 9 keyed flutes. No flute is perfect, but the automatic assumption that more keys is better is just whacky - if so, why aren't we all bidding on this 13 keyed flute on eBay: http://search.ebay.com/13-key-flute_W0QQfkrZ1QQfromZR8

I really think it all comes down to what you want to do with the flute as I mentioned at first.

Eric

Let me respond to some of this. IMO, the number of keys stops at eight because at that point the flute is completely chromatic without cross-fingerings or half-holing. In addition, the eight-key flute is pretty much the standard "Irish" flute, if that means anything to you.

If you need to cover pads when you oil your flute, I think you may be using far too much oil. I've had my 1882 eight-key since around 1984, and have never had to reallign a key or replace a pad, and I can get down to the low C with ease.

I agree that a keyed flute will ultimately require more care than a keyless flute, but I would submit that an eight-key requires less maintenance than a metal Boehm, especially as regards pads.

[pandscarr]

I went for 5 keys when I ordered my first keyed wooden flute - and then was advised by a teacher to increase the order to 6, which I did. I very quickly, however, wanted 8-keys! And that's what I would start with...

Personally, I've never wanted a right hand Bflat touch, as I really like where the Bflat is situation by the left thumb.

If I had to get rid of any keys, I guess I would give up the short F - as I tend to almost exclusively use the long F.

cheers,

[jim stone]

What are you folks playing on your 8-keys
that uses the bottom two keys?

[Wormdiet]

6 keys is a good idea if you may want to trade or sell it later on.

[Cubitt]

What are you folks playing on your 8-keys
that uses the bottom two keys?

Ashogan Farewell (in G - also use the long F for this tune)

Bonny Portmore (a Lorinna McKennitt tune)

A pair of tunes (one by Phil Cunningham) that ends the Relativity "Gathering Pace" album - don't remember the names. Also a tune by Johnny Cunningham on the same album called "While She Sleeps."

There are a number of tunes where I like to come up to the melody note from C# or D#, as well.

[peeplj]

Ok, I think your most valuable keys are, in order:

1. The E-flat key. Reasoning: you simply can't get an E-flat any other way than having the key.

2. The short F key. Reasoning: some players (on some flutes) can cross-finger the F-natural, but in my experience this works much better on whistle than on flute, where it's an iffy proposition at best. The short F key will give you a reliable, in-tune, and well-voiced F-natural, every time, and it's a very easy key to use.

3. The G-sharp key. Reasoning: like the F-natural, this note can be half-holed or sometimes cross-fingered, but it will have a weak and shaded quality. There are many good tunes in A-major (the Mason's Apron and the Contradiction come immediately to mind), and you will find this key very valuable on those tunes, especially at session speed.

4. The B-flat key. This note can be cross-fingered pretty reliably, but the cross-fingering is complex and will vary from flute to flute. There are some tunes that need B-flat, and it's nice to have a good strong note there when you need it.

5. The long F. Without a long F key, it's really hard to smoothly go from F-natural to D (as in Julia Delaney, which has this figure over and over). With a long -F, it's a smooth and easy transition. Similarly, with a long F only, a smooth transition from F-natural to A-flat is nearly impossible. Having both F keys is a Good Thing.

6. The long C-natural. I list this last; for most players this is nice to have but not vital, as C-natural has good strong and easy cross-fingerings that don't need the key. One place it's very handy, though, is to bring the 2nd octave C-sharp up to pitch, as this note is usually quite flat.

That's my take on it.

If you can only have 3 keys, get A-flat, short F, and E-flat.

If you have the money for 4, add a B-flat key for a completely chromatic flute.

If you have the money for 5, you probably really have the money for 6, so don't cut corners--in that case, get 6.

--James

[Alan]

What are you folks playing on your 8-keys
that uses the bottom two keys?

I have been playing an old German 11 key of ebony with a B foot for some time now and even use that low B in some tunes, mostly Scottish.

I like to noodle some jazzy blues at times too as well as whatever else comes into my noggin as I am fluting and those keys come into play there also.

I was expecting to use the right hand Bb key more often than I do. I have come to 'grips' with holding the flute so that the thumb key is my first choice for that note most of the time.

I find any extra concern about having so many keys is slight and far outweighed by the enjoyment of using them as I play.

Despite all those keys I still at times cross finger or half hole notes as the spirit moves me.

[treeshark]

What are you folks playing on your 8-keys
that uses the bottom two keys?

Paddy Fahey's jig. Plenty of key's needed here!

Galway hornpipe C sharp

Humours of Glendart C sharp you can use the upper but I can never get the slur cleanly enough.