Say a Fellow Wanted to make a flute...
- Jon C.
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- Tell us something.: I restore 19th century flutes, specializing in Rudall & Rose, and early American flutes. I occasionally make new flutes. Been at it for about 15 years.
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- Loren
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- Tell us something.: You just slip out the back, Jack
Make a new plan, Stan
You don't need to be coy, Roy
Just get yourself free
Hop on the bus, Gus
You don't need to discuss much
Just drop off the key, Lee
And get yourself free - Location: Loren has left the building.
Wax? Fer crissakes, it ain't a car Eilameilam wrote:the reason I was asking is that Buffing with say: Carnuba wax needs to spin about 3000 the heat up and melt the wax.
so don't give me no :roll:
Honestly Doc, these guys are making it sound a bit easier than perhaps they should. Before you go spending money on gear, I would highly recommend you get some hands on instruction in wood and/or metal turning: Find a beginners wood turning class at a store like Woodcraft or Rockler. Another option is to find a local wood turning club with a mentor program. Also, a machine tooling class would be extremely helpful, if you can find one in your area.
Loren
- eilam
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Well - thats true, each person has his own way of learning. The Lathe that I thought would be good enough to start was $35, I did not advice to start with a CNC mill.
Loren - are you saying you guys don't buff the instruments? I have two Von-Huene recorders, even the fine sanding should be done at high speed.
hey - speaking about cars - do you still have the "blue-Devil"?
Loren - are you saying you guys don't buff the instruments? I have two Von-Huene recorders, even the fine sanding should be done at high speed.
hey - speaking about cars - do you still have the "blue-Devil"?
- I.D.10-t
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Jon c.
I would be very interested if any one knew where I could find/purchase quality drafting dimensions of a conical bore fife/piccolo in Bb, or D.
You mentioned that there are reamer designs on the internet, do you have any links?You could turn the reamer out of wood if you like, there is some plans on the internet.
I would be very interested if any one knew where I could find/purchase quality drafting dimensions of a conical bore fife/piccolo in Bb, or D.
- Loren
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- Tell us something.: You just slip out the back, Jack
Make a new plan, Stan
You don't need to be coy, Roy
Just get yourself free
Hop on the bus, Gus
You don't need to discuss much
Just drop off the key, Lee
And get yourself free - Location: Loren has left the building.
Yup, still have the Blue Devil, although it's off the road for the time being.eilam wrote:Loren - are you saying you guys don't buff the instruments? I have two Von-Huene recorders, even the fine sanding should be done at high speed.
hey - speaking about cars - do you still have the "blue-Devil"?
We buff on a cotton buffing wheel with compound. Sanding is done around 1500 rpm.
Loren
- Loren
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- Tell us something.: You just slip out the back, Jack
Make a new plan, Stan
You don't need to be coy, Roy
Just get yourself free
Hop on the bus, Gus
You don't need to discuss much
Just drop off the key, Lee
And get yourself free - Location: Loren has left the building.
Eilam wrote: "I would go with wood lathe and regular woodturning tools, the results are much nicer when a flute is turned by hand."
I disagree with you Eilam, one can't tell the difference between an instrument expertly turned on a metal lathe vs. a wood lathe, especially not once the sanding and buffing are done.
I do think that hand turning on the wood lathe is more fun, and in some ways more satisfying, especially if repeatability and production are not issues. However, there are wood turning artists who use only a metal lathe as well, so..... get both!
"a 12" lathe would be good because the length of the bed is long enough to have a steady rest supporting your work while you drill the socket on the head joint."
Yes, but it will be too short for long center sections, especially for boring/gundrilling. Best to get something with a longer bed, or at least a lathe from a company that offers bed extensions for that model.
Loren
I disagree with you Eilam, one can't tell the difference between an instrument expertly turned on a metal lathe vs. a wood lathe, especially not once the sanding and buffing are done.
I do think that hand turning on the wood lathe is more fun, and in some ways more satisfying, especially if repeatability and production are not issues. However, there are wood turning artists who use only a metal lathe as well, so..... get both!
"a 12" lathe would be good because the length of the bed is long enough to have a steady rest supporting your work while you drill the socket on the head joint."
Yes, but it will be too short for long center sections, especially for boring/gundrilling. Best to get something with a longer bed, or at least a lathe from a company that offers bed extensions for that model.
Loren
- eilam
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if there is a local collage around your place, take some Machine shop classes, that will give you access to all the tools you need.
If they have a CNC lathe, thats even better, because you could easily turn reamers, and accurately make changes in the reamers for intonation..............
of coarse it's not necessary, and one can make a wooden reamer with a hacksaw blade inserted, or grind down a file, but it's much less accurate, and the end result is very much depended on luck.
Maybe you could hire Jon to make you a reamer? but for a head joint, you don't need any of this.
Doc, do you have access to machine shop tools?
If they have a CNC lathe, thats even better, because you could easily turn reamers, and accurately make changes in the reamers for intonation..............
of coarse it's not necessary, and one can make a wooden reamer with a hacksaw blade inserted, or grind down a file, but it's much less accurate, and the end result is very much depended on luck.
Maybe you could hire Jon to make you a reamer? but for a head joint, you don't need any of this.
Doc, do you have access to machine shop tools?
- Jon C.
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- Tell us something.: I restore 19th century flutes, specializing in Rudall & Rose, and early American flutes. I occasionally make new flutes. Been at it for about 15 years.
- Location: San Diego
http://www.flutes.fsbusiness.co.uk/Wooden.htmlI.D.10-t wrote: You mentioned that there are reamer designs on the internet, do you have any links?.
You can always go to a machinest and farm it out. I don't know how much it would cost, or you can go with a wood version.Doc wrote: Does a fellow get those custom made or do you have to be smart and make them yourself (Eek! )?
Loren wrote: We buff on a cotton buffing wheel with compound. Sanding is done around 1500 rpm.
Ditto to that, that is all I have used. I guess the wax would be nice on some of the types of wood, like boxwood? I was thinking of trying it.
Doc you might want to hang out at your father inlaws house and try out his lathe, but I warn you: IT IS HABIT FORMING!
Jon
- Loren
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- Tell us something.: You just slip out the back, Jack
Make a new plan, Stan
You don't need to be coy, Roy
Just get yourself free
Hop on the bus, Gus
You don't need to discuss much
Just drop off the key, Lee
And get yourself free - Location: Loren has left the building.
Eilam,
Since we were talking about gear for a beginner, I was thinking about less expensive equipment (table top "midi" size lathe), and so assumed you were talking bed length, rather than swing, when you mentioned 12'.
Hardly matters though now that we know Patrick has access to a full shop.
The rest of your question is a bit difficult to answer Patrick, other than to say, if you show your machinist in-law a flute, he no doubt would be able to tell you how to do each bit, tuning and voicing aside that is. So buy some plans, show them to your father in law, and he should be able to get you started. He'll be able to explain reamer making as well, or he'll be able to make one for you from the measurments on the plans. Terry McGee is offering Pratten plans that should be good for a first flute, not to much tinkering with the tuning will be required.
Loren
Since we were talking about gear for a beginner, I was thinking about less expensive equipment (table top "midi" size lathe), and so assumed you were talking bed length, rather than swing, when you mentioned 12'.
Hardly matters though now that we know Patrick has access to a full shop.
The rest of your question is a bit difficult to answer Patrick, other than to say, if you show your machinist in-law a flute, he no doubt would be able to tell you how to do each bit, tuning and voicing aside that is. So buy some plans, show them to your father in law, and he should be able to get you started. He'll be able to explain reamer making as well, or he'll be able to make one for you from the measurments on the plans. Terry McGee is offering Pratten plans that should be good for a first flute, not to much tinkering with the tuning will be required.
Loren