Super Glue: the straight skinny
- tommykleen
- Posts: 1686
- Joined: Fri Aug 30, 2002 6:00 pm
- antispam: No
- Please enter the next number in sequence: 8
- Tell us something.: I am interested in the uilleann pipes and their typical -and broader- use. I have been composing and arranging for the instrument lately. I enjoy unusual harmonic combinations on the pipes. I use the pipes to play music of other cultures.
- Location: Minnesota, Birthplace of the pop-up toaster
- Contact:
Super Glue: the straight skinny
Here's the deal: the round bead popped off of my bass reg tuning wire. Need to glue it back on. I want to use the best super glue possible. Super Glue was once a trade-marked product name. Now it is a generic term. There are many such products out there. Recommendations? Before you answer, the two surfaces to be adhered are brass rod and horn.
t
t
i like one called "quikset," i believe...they sell it at sears...it has a hard bottle with little buttons on the sides to squeese out the glue, so it's really controlled and has a good cap. i carry a bottle in every instrument case for on the road quick repairs
{][_||_______||_][___o__o__O___o__O__º__º__]]_]
\\
\\
\\
\\
- Uilliam
- Posts: 2578
- Joined: Sat Aug 17, 2002 6:00 pm
- Please enter the next number in sequence: 1
- Location: An fear mosánach seeketh and ye will find.
An epoxy glue would be a better bet than superglue.There will be more strength when it cures.Over here ye can get something called Liquid Steel...over there ? but I would suspect it has an equally catchy macho name like Girder Glu or somesuch title...anyways ye should have no problem with that...
Uilliam
Uilliam
- Joseph E. Smith
- Posts: 13780
- Joined: Sat Mar 06, 2004 2:40 pm
- antispam: No
- Location: ... who cares?...
- Contact:
- djm
- Posts: 17853
- Joined: Sat May 31, 2003 5:47 am
- Please enter the next number in sequence: 1
- Location: Canadia
- Contact:
All the superglues are some form of cyanoacrylate. I'm not sure if the concern here is really with the holding power as much as it is with the thickness of the glue. The cyanoacrylates are usually thin and watery, perfect for running into very fine hair cracks, whereas the epoxy resin glues are quite thick, and would be better for sealing wider cracks. Both are quite strong when applied in the appropriate situation, but I would agree that the epoxy resins, due to their thickness, have much better resistance to shearing pressure.
djm
djm
I'd rather be atop the foothills than beneath them.
- TnWhistler
- Posts: 251
- Joined: Sun Jul 08, 2001 6:00 pm
- Please enter the next number in sequence: 1
- Location: Tennessee
- Contact:
- wolvy
- Posts: 468
- Joined: Sat Mar 13, 2004 9:43 am
- antispam: No
- Please enter the next number in sequence: 8
- Location: San Diego, CA, US
I would use a slow-drying epoxy instead of a super glue. It gives you better working time to set it in place. I would stay away from 5 or 10-minute epoxys however. They out-gass too much (i.e. too stinky) and are typically weaker.
I like the Devcon 2-ton epoxy. It is almost as good as the old AMR stuff that luthiers in California used to use to butt-bond guitar necks to bodies with (per the David Russel Young book)
I like the Devcon 2-ton epoxy. It is almost as good as the old AMR stuff that luthiers in California used to use to butt-bond guitar necks to bodies with (per the David Russel Young book)
- glauber
- Posts: 4967
- Joined: Thu Aug 22, 2002 6:00 pm
- Please enter the next number in sequence: 1
- Location: I'm from Brazil, living in the Chicago area (USA)
- Contact:
On the Internet, nobody knows you're a dog!
--Wellsprings--
--Wellsprings--
- Royce
- Posts: 583
- Joined: Fri Feb 21, 2003 6:00 pm
- Please enter the next number in sequence: 1
- Location: Minneapolis/St.Paul Minnesota US
- Contact:
Yeah tommyboy:
Get some Elmer's. Either the stuff in the tubes, or the little square bottles. If your brass and bead fit good and tight it's the superglue you'll be wanting. If there's some slop in it, go for the JB weld or Iron-Crotch Alpha-Male Adhesive, or the Beefy Buttcheeks Macho Hunk Solder. If you can find it, try the Heavy-Duty Butch Bicep Bonder.
Royce
Get some Elmer's. Either the stuff in the tubes, or the little square bottles. If your brass and bead fit good and tight it's the superglue you'll be wanting. If there's some slop in it, go for the JB weld or Iron-Crotch Alpha-Male Adhesive, or the Beefy Buttcheeks Macho Hunk Solder. If you can find it, try the Heavy-Duty Butch Bicep Bonder.
Royce
- Joseph E. Smith
- Posts: 13780
- Joined: Sat Mar 06, 2004 2:40 pm
- antispam: No
- Location: ... who cares?...
- Contact:
- fancypiper
- Posts: 2162
- Joined: Mon Jun 02, 2003 1:08 pm
- antispam: No
- Please enter the next number in sequence: 12
- Location: Sparta NC
- Contact:
One I like is the "gel" superglue. It is a little thicker than the others, and it is "set" by twisting after applying the two parts together.
The only way I could break the seal was with the main ingredient of fingernail polish remover.
Of course that was the large areas involved in the construction of the Penny Chanter.
The only way I could break the seal was with the main ingredient of fingernail polish remover.
Of course that was the large areas involved in the construction of the Penny Chanter.
- billh
- Posts: 2159
- Joined: Mon Jan 05, 2004 6:15 am
- Please enter the next number in sequence: 1
- Location: Skerries, County Dublin
- Contact:
The superglues have the advantage of being removable (either by mild shock loading - they tend to form a brittle bond) or with one of the special-purpose superglue solvents.
You may wish to check on the material your bead is made of; it it's actually plastic, the cyanoacrylates or MEK superglue removers may attack it. If it's superglue-safe, I think superglue is the better choice (over epoxy).
The gel superglues avoid the problem of "setting too quickly" and have some mild gap filling properties. The Zap CA ("Zap a gap CA") brand is probably one of the best.
- Bill
You may wish to check on the material your bead is made of; it it's actually plastic, the cyanoacrylates or MEK superglue removers may attack it. If it's superglue-safe, I think superglue is the better choice (over epoxy).
The gel superglues avoid the problem of "setting too quickly" and have some mild gap filling properties. The Zap CA ("Zap a gap CA") brand is probably one of the best.
- Bill
Last edited by billh on Fri Sep 17, 2004 8:24 am, edited 1 time in total.
- Nanohedron
- Moderatorer
- Posts: 38240
- Joined: Wed Dec 18, 2002 6:00 pm
- antispam: No
- Please enter the next number in sequence: 8
- Tell us something.: Been a fluter, citternist, and uilleann piper; committed now to the way of the harp.
Oh, yeah: also a mod here, not a spammer. A matter of opinion, perhaps. - Location: Lefse country
Yeah, and then you could haul your pipes around in this über-macho ride:Royce wrote:Yeah tommyboy:
Get some Elmer's. Either the stuff in the tubes, or the little square bottles. If your brass and bead fit good and tight it's the superglue you'll be wanting. If there's some slop in it, go for the JB weld or Iron-Crotch Alpha-Male Adhesive, or the Beefy Buttcheeks Macho Hunk Solder. If you can find it, try the Heavy-Duty Butch Bicep Bonder.
Royce
http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/6026041/
What the hell; the sooner we gobble up petroleum, arguably the better.