Pictures of Your Pipes
- Patrick D'Arcy
- Posts: 3188
- Joined: Sun Aug 19, 2001 6:00 pm
- antispam: No
- Please enter the next number in sequence: 12
- Location: Los Angeles (via Dublin, Ireland)
- Contact:
- Tak_the_whistler
- Posts: 568
- Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2003 6:00 pm
- Please enter the next number in sequence: 1
- Location: Japan
oops! sorry....my posts are becoming sorta OT
OK..I'll try and see what happens. Thanks!!!
- Rick
- Posts: 367
- Joined: Fri Feb 28, 2003 6:00 pm
- Please enter the next number in sequence: 1
- Location: Amsterdam
- Contact:
I hope the fingering you decribed for back D is only when using vibrato..Patrick D'Arcy wrote:Hi Tak.... a common misconception of pipers is that the back D should be played with only the thumb. This however is not the case. The back D is to be played using a combination of fingers and each chanter is different as far as that goes. Patrick.
How would you play a few staccato back Ds like that?
Not to mention a triplet.
I can see opening the C# hole along with the back D hole to get the back D right,
but then it's reed tweaking time imho like you said in your last post...
A crisp clear back D comes from under your thumb i always learnt.. =)
Preferably one that says "ping!"
You know..
- Patrick D'Arcy
- Posts: 3188
- Joined: Sun Aug 19, 2001 6:00 pm
- antispam: No
- Please enter the next number in sequence: 12
- Location: Los Angeles (via Dublin, Ireland)
- Contact:
Hi Higezura,
I like that popping strap! Very Davy Spillane
Also, you inadvertantly solved the question "can an uilleann piper march in a parade"... I'd never thought of this technique before
Patrick.
I like that popping strap! Very Davy Spillane
Also, you inadvertantly solved the question "can an uilleann piper march in a parade"... I'd never thought of this technique before
Patrick.
Last edited by Patrick D'Arcy on Mon May 05, 2003 4:46 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- Patrick D'Arcy
- Posts: 3188
- Joined: Sun Aug 19, 2001 6:00 pm
- antispam: No
- Please enter the next number in sequence: 12
- Location: Los Angeles (via Dublin, Ireland)
- Contact:
Hi Rick,
Yes, I was talking about playing the back D for a length of time when the pitch really matters when I spoke of alternate fingerings. Triplets etc., on back d would be done with only the thumb obviously enough, but if the D is going to be played for any length of time distinguishing it from an effect to a note then you would almost certainly play in an altered fingering.
Patrick.
Yes, I was talking about playing the back D for a length of time when the pitch really matters when I spoke of alternate fingerings. Triplets etc., on back d would be done with only the thumb obviously enough, but if the D is going to be played for any length of time distinguishing it from an effect to a note then you would almost certainly play in an altered fingering.
Patrick.
- Tak_the_whistler
- Posts: 568
- Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2003 6:00 pm
- Please enter the next number in sequence: 1
- Location: Japan
- Patrick D'Arcy
- Posts: 3188
- Joined: Sun Aug 19, 2001 6:00 pm
- antispam: No
- Please enter the next number in sequence: 12
- Location: Los Angeles (via Dublin, Ireland)
- Contact:
- ston
- Posts: 47
- Joined: Wed Apr 09, 2003 5:33 pm
- Please enter the next number in sequence: 1
- Location: Los Angeles, California, USA
- Contact:
I recieved my Patrick Murray starter set in the mail last week. It's exciting to finally be able to play an actual set of uilleann pipes after all this anticipation. Here's a picture, along with the bag cover I sewed for it:
I'll share some of my thoughts on the set. I'm new to the instrument, though, so for some of this stuff I have no idea what I'm talking about.
Overall it seems like a good instrument. I haven't been able to get the tuning spot on yet, but I figure that's my inexperience showing. I haven't touched the reed yet, except to move it in and out a bit. But I'm going to get some help from some Real Pipers(TM) today, so hopefully we'll be able to clear up any tuning issues.
The main body of the chanter is cast in plasic resin. Yay for innovation and modern building techniques! The casting of the instrument, I believe, is the the thing that really brings the price down as compared to a wooden one.
Patrick has stopped using leather on his bellows. I was under the impression that vinyl wouldn't last as well as leather, but so far it's holding up find. I guess I'll have to trust Patrick on that decision. Overall the bellows seem quite well made. I may end up installing a pad on the elbow side. Oh, and it might be nice if the air intake had some holes through the side of the wall to make it harder to inadvertently cover it up with my arm. I'm sure It'll become second nature to avoid that problem, though.
The vinyl bag was quite slippery, and a cover was really necessary. I was planning on making one anyway, to make the instrument really mine, so it doesn't make much difference to me. I think the fabric I chose turned out really nice. Its colors really go with the rest of the rest instrument. I wasn't actually planning for it to be so coordinated, but it just turned out that way. Perhaps I unconsciously thought about color coordination when I was choosing the fabric?
The white plastic accents on the chanter look good from a distance but up close the casting seems to have been less careful than the rest of the chanter. One of the pieces has a number of blemishes that look perhaps like problems with the mold.
I hope it doesn't seem like I'm bashing Patrick's work, though. Overall I love the instrument. It's a fabulous deal, and I recommend it for anyone starting out. Hopefully I'll be able to work out the tuning difficulties with some experienced help, and then I'm sure the instrument will last me a long time.
In case anyone is curious, Patrick Murray's web site is www.thepiperscut.com
-David
I'll share some of my thoughts on the set. I'm new to the instrument, though, so for some of this stuff I have no idea what I'm talking about.
Overall it seems like a good instrument. I haven't been able to get the tuning spot on yet, but I figure that's my inexperience showing. I haven't touched the reed yet, except to move it in and out a bit. But I'm going to get some help from some Real Pipers(TM) today, so hopefully we'll be able to clear up any tuning issues.
The main body of the chanter is cast in plasic resin. Yay for innovation and modern building techniques! The casting of the instrument, I believe, is the the thing that really brings the price down as compared to a wooden one.
Patrick has stopped using leather on his bellows. I was under the impression that vinyl wouldn't last as well as leather, but so far it's holding up find. I guess I'll have to trust Patrick on that decision. Overall the bellows seem quite well made. I may end up installing a pad on the elbow side. Oh, and it might be nice if the air intake had some holes through the side of the wall to make it harder to inadvertently cover it up with my arm. I'm sure It'll become second nature to avoid that problem, though.
The vinyl bag was quite slippery, and a cover was really necessary. I was planning on making one anyway, to make the instrument really mine, so it doesn't make much difference to me. I think the fabric I chose turned out really nice. Its colors really go with the rest of the rest instrument. I wasn't actually planning for it to be so coordinated, but it just turned out that way. Perhaps I unconsciously thought about color coordination when I was choosing the fabric?
The white plastic accents on the chanter look good from a distance but up close the casting seems to have been less careful than the rest of the chanter. One of the pieces has a number of blemishes that look perhaps like problems with the mold.
I hope it doesn't seem like I'm bashing Patrick's work, though. Overall I love the instrument. It's a fabulous deal, and I recommend it for anyone starting out. Hopefully I'll be able to work out the tuning difficulties with some experienced help, and then I'm sure the instrument will last me a long time.
In case anyone is curious, Patrick Murray's web site is www.thepiperscut.com
-David
(Feverishly playing around with my new Patrick Murray starter set)
- ston
- Posts: 47
- Joined: Wed Apr 09, 2003 5:33 pm
- Please enter the next number in sequence: 1
- Location: Los Angeles, California, USA
- Contact:
Yes, the whole chanter is molded (apart from the bits made of brass, of course). The white parts aren't made of faux ivory. They are cast seperately from the main body out of white plastic. I saw another one of Patrick Murray's chanters today and it had the same blemishes on the same piece of trim, so I'm assuming it's just a little problem with that mold. All the other pieces actually look fine, on further inspection. The color is definitely white, not the off-white I assume you'd see on faux ivory.Tony wrote:David, is the entire chanter is molded?
And as a follow-up, Patrick D'Arcy was kind enough to mess around with my reed and got it playing nicely. Actually, I ended up with the reed from the other Murray chanter, which had some different issues. I guess the climate change between Boston and LA made for some weirdnesses in the reeds.
-David
(Feverishly playing around with my new Patrick Murray starter set)
- Lorenzo
- Posts: 5726
- Joined: Fri May 24, 2002 6:00 pm
- Please enter the next number in sequence: 1
- Location: Oregon, USA
Here's some more pictures of the Koehler/Quinn B set I got from tok, from different angles than the one I posted on page 10. The second pic shows the violin peg (only larger) stop key at the top of chanter.
Last edited by Lorenzo on Sun Jan 11, 2004 8:54 am, edited 1 time in total.
-
- Posts: 2926
- Joined: Mon Jul 21, 2003 2:20 am
- Please enter the next number in sequence: 1
- Location: Cascadia