Brass

[billh]

Do not,

repeat

DO NOT use Brasso.

It will cause more corrosion, especially in crevices and around springs and rivets, i.e. exactly where you do not want it. It's nearly as bad as lemon juice, salt, etc.

I second the alternatives already given: Cape Cod Cloths, or for more resistant corrosion, Peek metal polish.

(Thank you, that is all.)

[mke_mick]

Said CHasR:

I;m certain some Hornist on the horn forum (or whatever fetid corner of the internet these people congregate on) with an even greater propensity towards OCD disagrees with her vociferously.

Actually, this lifelong hornist agrees with her: Brasso is not for musical instruments, period. My horn professor used to like Turtle Wax, and while I don't think it causes corrosion, on brass it can leave stubborn residue, especially where there's any texture, engraving, etc. (one of my horns has Turtle Wax residue in its solder-joints from 20 years ago). So, I wouldn't recommend that either.

If you must polish at all, I think I'd go with Bill H.'s & PJ's advice to stick with Cape Cod cloths or Peek's polish.

Cheers,
Mick

[CHasR]

ahem. just for giggles, lets line it all up (in order of appearance:)

Lacquered or unlacquered, dosent matter, as long as its not B****o.

( I tried to maintain culpability for the forum so Brasso dosent get miffed.)

However, Brasso is simply not to be used on musical instruments, according to lifelong French Hornist,

Do not, repeat DO NOT use Brasso.

Actually, this lifelong hornist agrees with her: Brasso is not for musical instruments, period.

OK everyone! Key of G:

All together now: Dont use "Brasso" !

[an seanduine]

Ahem. One again. You avoid all chemicals when you use a mechanical buffing action. Hence: Crocus Cloth. If you wish to go even less aggressive (if this is possible) you can chase down some rush. You can't get any more historic than that.

Bob

[mke_mick]

Reed rush is indispensable stuff for single-reed players, and thus easy to find even in small music stores, not to mention growing naturally in wetlands. Little chasing is required. (One source online is http://www.wwbw.com/Leblanc-Reed-Rush-5 ... 96618.wwbw)

Never thought of using it on metals! Wouldn't it be more or less equivalent to, say, 2400-grit sandpaper?

Cheers,
Mick

[CHasR]

Never thought of using it on metals! Wouldn't it be more or less equivalent to, say, 2400-grit sandpaper?

I know, really... imagine!
even when I was heavily into clarinet & sax I had little use for rush. We were taught to use bevel edge knives, (or worst case scenario) high grit sandpaper on glass for the mpc side. Taking reed rush to brass seems like a lot of work. Better living through chemicals I say. Flitz for me; at least until they stop producing it.

[Johnered66]

Thanks all, I got the Flitz and I used it last night. Lightly worked it in and it cleaned up right proper. There were some spots that were deeper than others, that's why I really wanted to clean it up. Glad I did. Try to figure a way to post pics from the iPhone. Cheers

[an seanduine]

You might note a faint aroma of ammonia when you first open the flitz. . .just sayin'

Bob

[MTGuru]

And is Flitz ammonia-free?

yes.

You might note a faint aroma of ammonia when you first open the flitz. . .just sayin'

Well, darnit ... Now you've made me go look up the MSDS for Flitz paste. Which states:

ammonia solution
CAS 1336-21-6 EINECS 215-647-6
content [%] < 5%

So yes, I'd think my comments on Simichrome apply to Flitz.

But really, the overwhelming smell of sulfur emanating from the Devil's own instrument ought to mask the faint aroma of ammonia anyway.

[CHasR]

this was SPECIFICALLY recomended to me by the pipemaker. just sayin

[MTGuru]

this was SPECIFICALLY recomended to me by the pipemaker. just sayin

Yep, the the liquid stuff seems to be ammonia-free according to the MSDS. The cristobalite is probably a very mild abrasive mineral, like diatomaceous earth.

[Ted]

I've just restored the brass on a full set which was stored for years. The red-brown corrosion was deep and not removed by polishing cloths or Flitz. I sanded off the corrosion with 1500 grit paper which left fine scratches. I buffed out the scratches with tripoli on a buffing wheel, followed by polishing with another buffing wheel charged with jewlers' rouge. I wiped off the surface residue and applied Renaissance Wax Polish to retard further corrosion. I also applied the polish to the wood and ivory and buffed it. Looks like a brand new set. I agree that any polish containing ammonia will "burn" the brass so it will tarnish much more quickly. Avoid any polish containing ammmonia.

[an seanduine]

I'm with Ted on this one. However, MSDS notwithstanding, the nose-knows.
I work a little further down the grit grid. . .2000 wet-dry and crocus. Naturally if you must
use more aggressive abrasion be prepared to, as Ted has done, come back through a buffing regime to achieve a mirror-like finish.
If you use a polish, even a very mild, non-aggressive polish, know that you leave a very slight amount of residue on the surface. . .a residue which may have a very slight chemical activity. The OCD response to this is to strip the residue with very mild solution. Water, if nothing else. . .a damp soft cloth. I use a non-ionic water based degreaser. Using a barrier to protect bare brass is a matter of taste or choice. Renaissance may be fine and probably won't leave a build-up. Another choice would be to use a silicon cloth like those used by gunsmiths. These will prevent fingerprinting. Or, after you achieve a uniform surface, you may use benign neglect as strive for a uniform patina. I was always told that older second looeys preferred not to shine their bars since they were too good a target. . . .

[CHasR]

Chemistry not being my forte;
all this makes me wonder how much ammonia Im sweating out onto my pipes eww.

[Johnered66]

I also used the Flitz on a Nichol Silver set, it came beautiful. Just wondering now, sorry if this subject has been covered ( I couldn't find any thread) what is a good product to use on the ebony/african blackwood, to protect and preserve? Thanks. cheers.