Seasoning an L & M bag
- mattpiper
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Seasoning an L & M bag
I just got done shortening the neck on my L & M bag (makes a HUGE difference in reaching the regulators! Wow!), and am noticing it is not quite airtight. Close, but not perfect. The bag appears to have never been treated before (not hint of seasoning inside).
I've got some Hardie's airtight here, which I've used ao a ton of L & M bags for GHBs, but didn't know if the same stuff was appropriate for uilleann pipe bag use. Obviously, whatever I treat it with, I understand the bag will need to be left to dry for several days to avoid getting the reeds wet.
So Airtight? Or something else for uilleann pipe use? Thanks!
I've got some Hardie's airtight here, which I've used ao a ton of L & M bags for GHBs, but didn't know if the same stuff was appropriate for uilleann pipe bag use. Obviously, whatever I treat it with, I understand the bag will need to be left to dry for several days to avoid getting the reeds wet.
So Airtight? Or something else for uilleann pipe use? Thanks!
- Joseph E. Smith
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- chanterdan
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- mattpiper
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Thanks for the quick feedback everyone!
Hmmm... The joint isn't leaking at the point of tie-in (I've tied in probably near 100 set of pipes); did the "old cork the chanter stock, stick just the end of the stock/bag it in some water" test and it didn't bubble at all (no, I didn't submerge the bag). It's more of an overall not quite tight thing--since it's not leaking at the point of tie-in, it was clearly not quite tight before hand as well, I just hadn't tested it.
I find all of this quite interesting, as I've never ran into a fully airtight GHB L & M bag (and they appear to use the same leather/tanning process). They always need a touch of seasoning to seal up the welt and fill in the pores. Or maybe I'm just super picky when it comes to airtightness!
If seasoning is a big no-no with a set of uilleann pipes, it looks like I'll need a new bag... Ick.
As for a shorter neck... I'm a short guy, so maybe that has something to do with it. All I know is before, I couldn't reach the top two rows of reg keys without kinking the neck (and often cutting the air supply off tot he chanter in the process). Now I can nearly reach all of the regs (top row still a bit awkward to hit), yet D/F-sharp on the bottom is still easily attained.
Hmmm... The joint isn't leaking at the point of tie-in (I've tied in probably near 100 set of pipes); did the "old cork the chanter stock, stick just the end of the stock/bag it in some water" test and it didn't bubble at all (no, I didn't submerge the bag). It's more of an overall not quite tight thing--since it's not leaking at the point of tie-in, it was clearly not quite tight before hand as well, I just hadn't tested it.
I find all of this quite interesting, as I've never ran into a fully airtight GHB L & M bag (and they appear to use the same leather/tanning process). They always need a touch of seasoning to seal up the welt and fill in the pores. Or maybe I'm just super picky when it comes to airtightness!
If seasoning is a big no-no with a set of uilleann pipes, it looks like I'll need a new bag... Ick.
As for a shorter neck... I'm a short guy, so maybe that has something to do with it. All I know is before, I couldn't reach the top two rows of reg keys without kinking the neck (and often cutting the air supply off tot he chanter in the process). Now I can nearly reach all of the regs (top row still a bit awkward to hit), yet D/F-sharp on the bottom is still easily attained.
- Joseph E. Smith
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- Joseph E. Smith
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Yes, it is an interesting case. I've only owned L&M bags (GHB's and UP's) and only one of them had a leak. It was a quarter sized hole created by somebody thrusting their dagger into it while I was playing (long story), and no0 fault of the leather, bag or the L&M company.
edited to add: Actually, the last bag on my GHB's was a Canmore bag made out of Gortex, a great bag I might add.
edited to add: Actually, the last bag on my GHB's was a Canmore bag made out of Gortex, a great bag I might add.
- reedbiter
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l & M leather...
L & M bags do not leak. At least not through the leather. It is especially designed, and I believe there is currently only one tannery in Canada that has the formula / manufacturing rights. That being said, if you know what you are looking for, you can almost always find this exact same stuff available at Tandy's right off the shelf.
Here's the trick. Put a bit of moisture (spit on your fingers and rub it onto a section on the smooth side of the hide, blow forcefully on the corresponding spot on the suede (fuzzy) side. Air will leak around the edges of your mouth. Look at the smooth shiny side at the moist area. If there are ANY bubbles, the leather is NO GOOD for either bellows or bag. Period. You can test your bellows the same way. Inflate yer bellows, plug the holes, dab a spot nice and moist and squeeze...if'n you have bubbles...you've got troubles! (oooh hey, new t-shirt!)
Here's the trick. Put a bit of moisture (spit on your fingers and rub it onto a section on the smooth side of the hide, blow forcefully on the corresponding spot on the suede (fuzzy) side. Air will leak around the edges of your mouth. Look at the smooth shiny side at the moist area. If there are ANY bubbles, the leather is NO GOOD for either bellows or bag. Period. You can test your bellows the same way. Inflate yer bellows, plug the holes, dab a spot nice and moist and squeeze...if'n you have bubbles...you've got troubles! (oooh hey, new t-shirt!)
- reedbiter
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l & M leather...
L & M bags do not leak. At least not through the leather. It is especially designed, and I believe there is currently only one tannery in Canada that has the formula / manufacturing rights. That being said, if you know what you are looking for, you can almost always find this exact same stuff available at Tandy's right off the shelf.
Here's the trick. Put a bit of moisture (spit on your fingers and rub it onto a section on the smooth side of the hide, blow forcefully on the corresponding spot on the suede (fuzzy) side. Air will leak around the edges of your mouth. Look at the smooth shiny side at the moist area. If there are ANY bubbles, the leather is NO GOOD for either bellows or bag. Period. You can test your bellows the same way. Inflate yer bellows, plug the holes, dab a spot nice and moist and squeeze...if'n you have bubbles...you've got troubles! (oooh hey, new t-shirt!)
Here's the trick. Put a bit of moisture (spit on your fingers and rub it onto a section on the smooth side of the hide, blow forcefully on the corresponding spot on the suede (fuzzy) side. Air will leak around the edges of your mouth. Look at the smooth shiny side at the moist area. If there are ANY bubbles, the leather is NO GOOD for either bellows or bag. Period. You can test your bellows the same way. Inflate yer bellows, plug the holes, dab a spot nice and moist and squeeze...if'n you have bubbles...you've got troubles! (oooh hey, new t-shirt!)
- giggleswicksam
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Yes indeed. L&M bags do not leak - at all. You can sit on them. You can have a good old game of footy (sorry, soccer) with it and then crack out a few tunes still. But for a leaky old bag, I've been using some of that microwavable Airtight stuff and it really does work! Leaky old bag = airtight bag. Watch it don't gum up your valves though. Also works on old coats and shoes. And as flypaper.
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if your bag isnt leaking around the stocks season it with air tight.swish it around like you would do with a highland bag then ,plug the stocks and inflate it.then hang it up to drain it and let it dry for a few days.if it leaks after that then you are in real trouble.it shouldnt affect the reeds because you are not introducing moisture into the bag.i did it and my reed is ok.
mike spencer