Maybe it’s a dumb question, but what is it about plain brass Feadóg tubes that make them so different?
I’m guessing that hole size and spacing playes some part in it, but then Feadóg tubes don’t appear to have a significantly different hole configuration in side-by-side visual comparisons with other tubes.
Especially noticable when paired with one of my copper retrofit heads, brass Feadóg tubes have an almost magical quality about them compared to the others I’ve tried.
While I haven’t tried every cheapie whistle tube on the market, I have tried Waltons in both brass and aluminum, and Generations in both brass and nickel.
Plain brass Feadóg tubes are vastly superior to all of the above mentioned tubes in sweetness of tone and balance across octaves, and they are also much more in tune.
The tone is so much sweeter and brighter that I can’t believe only hole spacing and size could account for it… although I have no doubt that it explains Feadóg tubes being more in tune and having better balance across octaves.
Perhaps it’s absence of lacquer, paint or nickel plating on the brass Feadóg tube that gives it’s tone the magical quality… if that isn’t the reason, I’m completely baffled.
While we’re at it, haven’t there been three different versions of the Feadog? If anyone can give some background on them, and how to tell them apart, I would appreciate that.
Best wishes,
Jerry
I dunno. I don’t really like my brass Feadog. It’s raspy. Same with a 2nd one that I’ve tried.
Have tried my barrel with a Hoover whitecap, no diff. I however agree that it’s more in tune than the Gen D tube.
Jerry, someone addressed that in detail once and even posted pictures. Actually, it’s been addressed more than once but I only remember one set of photos. Check the Search function and see if you can find 'em.
Tery
The O’Briain Improved Whistle uses a Feadog shaft, probably because the intonation is so good, among other reasons. I took an old style Generation head (with seam) and put it on a Feadog tube. I was really pleased with the results. Better than the original Generation it was on (which was already good), and better than the Feadog with the Feadog head. The Feadog was a good whistle with the original head, but it is much more sweet sounding and stable with the Generation head. Anyway, maybe Feadog has a more consistent machining process that causes there mass produced tubes to play so well in tune.
Well, here I go getting technical and all, but the properties of the metal itself, combined with the wall thickness (especially noticeable) you will get a wide range of differences.
For example… as a general rule… the thicker the wall of the tube is (staying with the same metal) the brighter the tone, conversely, the thinner the wall - the more mellow or resonant tone.
Of course there are tons of variations on this theme, but in general, the thinner the wall thickness is, the more the metal will resonate. Also, the less rigid the metal to more resonate it is, therfore brass usually achieves a more mellow or sweet tone, AND it is easily extruded with an almost paper thin wall thickness.
But like I said, different materials will return vastly different results, and even provide similar sound and tone when set side by side.
So… there is my 2 cents!
Did anyone follow any of that rambling??? 
Take care all
Gary, John & co,
I know Brass Generations have a lacquer coating on the outside of the tube (which usually gets scratched up)- does this coating extend to the inside? And does this stabilise the surface of the inside?
Does the surface of the inside of a Feadog tube change over time? As the outside gets dirtied up quite quickly with use, does the inside also get dirty, and does this change the sound?
I almost gave up on Feadog whistles. My first was horrible, worse than any Generation I’ve tried yet.
I tried one more, though, and it’s a lovely thing. It has a sound similar to the Oak, but without the breath control requirements, and the balance between octaves is great.
Also, not to diss Generation, the last several Gens I’ve bought have been wonderful whistles, right out of the box.
Best,
–James
http://www.flutesite.com
I have a wonderful-sounding Feadog. My problem is that the E and F# holes are closer together than they are on any other whistle I own. In order to play without squeaks my right hand middle and index fingers have to be pushed up against each other. Other than that I love the Feadog. It has a unique tone.
Mike
I dunno what makes these special, if they are at all. I have a Feadog D and it is my first (and as of yet) only whistle. I do find it pretty, though it is prone to scratches.
After about a month of hacking at it, I discovered last night that the transitions between registers is a little smoother if I don’t blow with all my force all the time. It’s also much sweeter sounding. Well duh! Blowing 'til you’re red in the face won’t help the sound of any instrument, I guess.
I do like the Feadog. Made a nice little wool case for it from some handspun yarn (to protect it from scratches) and it sits by my favourite chair waiting for me to get home at night and knock myself out again.
Someday it will sound like something other than nails coming down a blackboard.
After nearly an hour of searching, looking at every post that came up under “Feadog” I’m a bit annoyed and still haven’t found an answer to my question.
Now, if someone would please be so kind as to tell me the difference between Feadog Mach 1, Mach 2 and Mach 3 whistles, I would be most appreciative. (Or, post a link to that string Tery sent me looking for.)
Best wishes,
Jerry
Sorry Jerry, I forgot to try to answer this bit of your question.
I have one Mark 2 and several Mark 3 Feadogs (at home).
The Mk2 has a peak on the head below the window - the Mk3 is flat along the top, and much slimmer in profile. It’s the slimmest head I’ve seen on any of the cheap whistles.
I bought a Mk2 in the Summer of 2001 in a shop in Dorset. When I returned a few months later, all the Whistles were Mk3 style. However the black anodised Feadog I got before the summer of 2001 had the Mk3 head, so The Mk3 has been out a while. If you see a Feadog for sale, and the box isn’t dusty, it’ll probably be a Mk3 head.
The Mk1 was, I seem to recall from the previous discussion, much like the Mk2 in looks, but generally played better. My Mk2 plays fine, but I did the blue tack tweak on it.
Either type comes in dark green on a brass body, or Black on a Nickel or coloured body. In March last year I saw lots of brightly coloured Feadogs for sale in Ireland tourist shops, and all were Mk3 style, so if you really want to get a Mk2, you’re going to have to look hard to get one.
I too tried to search the Archives - not working, and tried a search but just came up with trash. There was indeed a picture posted ages ago to show the heads (painting 1000 words), but I can’t remember for sure who did it, possibly Avanutria.
Thanks, Martin.
Your very clear answer was all the information I needed. That’s a big help.
Best wishes,
Jerry
Hi,
I also tried to find the thread but no luck. If this picture shows the whistles are from the bottom, Feadog mk2 brass, Feadog mk3 painted, Feadog mk3 brass and Feadog mk3 nickle. I prefer the painted body, I’ve swapped mouthpieces and while it makes a difference it can’t make the bad ones good. The mk2 and the mk3 nickle are my worst.
Cheers, Mac
http://www.chiffandfipple.com/feadog.htm
Or better still, read Dale’s take on it from the main site!
Teach me to refresh before I post!
That picture says what I was trying to describe!
Thanks Mac! I agree, the Mk3 painted is the nicest of the bunch, followed closely by the Mk3 brass. The Mk3 nickel has an unpleasant feel to the holes, a bit too cheap.
Hi Martin,
at least the pic is showing!! My pics have a habit of disappearing and reappearing or being only visible to me.
Cheers, Mac
Sometimes I wonder if my voice is audible to anyone other than myself (Reginald Iolanthe Perrin)
Actually, Martin’s description and Mac’s picture went together very well to give a nicely rounded presentation.
Thanks again to both of you. (And to Bloo for the excellent review.)
Best wishes,
Jerry
—>Martin—
In response to your finish on the whistle question. Most of the brass whistles I have come across that have a ‘clear coat’ of sorts are not coated on the inside. The main purpose for the finish is so the brass doesn’t tarnish. Brass is also a very difficult metal in the sense that it is hard to get any sort of finish to ‘stay put’ for very long, especially when it’s being rubbed on a lot like whistles.
I don’t think there is any sort of effect on the overall tone or performance, I could be wrong. I use anodized aluminum which means the finish is actually bonded to the metal during a melding process. It can still be scratched, but it can’t be flaked or rubbed off either, and it does affect the overall tone (albeit barely noticeable at all), as it is a few thousandths thick unlike normal ‘paint on’ clear finished that are much thinner.
As far as tarnish changing the tone or sound or properties of a whistle over time… it would take a very long time for it to happen, and basically tarnish only covers the metal, it doesn’t keep ‘rusting inward’ like steel, at least, not for eons!
The only thing I’ve found is that after 15 years of owning a generation brass whistle, is I used brasso and steel wool to keep it looking nice every so often after it got tarnished too much, and over time, it takes tarnish off, which in turn is taking a minute amount of the brass with it. A few years ago I had to toss it, because it was basically wearing so thin that the brass was starting to dish downward where your fingers hit the holes!!!
Like I said though, the wall thickness of the brass was soooooooo paper thin. You really don’t ever need to worry about say, nickel or aluminum or tin which are harder metals, and usually are at least slightly thicker.
Anyway more than my 2 cents, I’ll shut up now!
Take care all!
Hi John,
Thanks for the info! We had a long discussion a while back about tarnishes, and whether to clean or not. I have a Doolin one piece which I gave a clean with Peek, and it gleamed like gold - for about half an hour, after which of course it was tarnished around the holes and thumbs again.
Oddly, my Oak tarnishes slightly black around the holes, while my Generation tarnishes paler than the surrounding Nickel, which suggests that is Oaks and Generations aren’t made of the same metal.
My uncoated Brass Feadog just got generally dirty all over with use, the wire brushed surface only looked good for a few weeks after purchase.
I guess the answer is to be happy with a drity whisstle, ot get one that’s been anodised!
cheers, Martin