I just acquired a Water Weasel C from someone here on the board. I had been looking for a C whistle for a while, and I’m very happy with this one. Every WW that I’ve had (E, D, A and C) has been great. This one is about five years old and has the numbers and no sticker. My only problem is that the fipple and whole mouthpiece end appear to have never been glued. The previous/original owner has said that he received it that way, which I have no reason not to believe. However, I was wondering if this was common in older WWs, or was this just a mistake that never got corrected? I assume that it is the latter.
Second, what kind of glue should I use to glue it?
I cannot comment on the history of the WW, but I would like to warn you about using PVC cement on your whistle. The difference between cement and glue is that a cement melts and welds the material that you are sticking together. A glue on the other hand bonds to the material and does not alter the material. If you use a cement, such as you would buy in the hardware store to join pipe, you risk changing the geometry of the fipple and getting unexpected results. Instead, use CA glue. This is the same stuff as Super Glue. It is availble in several viscosities, but use the ultra thin stuff. First you assemble the parts the way that you want, and then you apply the glue so that it seeps into the cracks where the parts meet. Set it down gently and let it set for at least an hour in a warm place. Set it on aluminum foil, in case any glue gets on the outside. You have to get it right the first time because a CA glue bond is stronger than the PVC pipe.
Actually, now that I have re-read the above, I would also say that if the whistle works, then “fixing” it may not be that good of an idea. Using either method (glue or cement) seems quite risky. YMMV
I agree-- if the head parts stay together pretty well with no glue, leave them alone.
Another alternative glue to use is 5 minute epoxy. It won’t be as strong as PVC cement or CA glue, but you really don’t need strength here, just some stability. The 5 min working time will give you plenty of time to adjust the parts before the glue hardens.
Disassemble the parts, mix some glue, then put a little bit on the BOTTOM part of the fipple (away from the windway) NOT into the head joint. Push that into place. Now put a bit of the glue into the bottom part of the head sleeve, again away from the windway, where you don’t want any glue to end up. Push that onto the whistle. This will result with most of the glue getting squeezed out onto the lower surface of the beak where it can be easily wiped off. Carefully align everything, then let it dry.
If you put glue into the fipple part of the head joint, the excess will end up inside the head where you won’t be able to get it out!
It seems like WW postings have taken over the board. One thing I wanted to toss out there in response to Christopher’s note is that I bought a Bb/A set from Glenn back in Jan. 05, and that one did not come with stickers either. My D, bought in 2004, has the sticker. I guess Glenn must have had sticker-free production runs on occasion.
Thanks for the replies. I always appreciate the voices of experience. I can see that I’ll be avoiding several potential disasters because of our resident whistle makers. Thanks!
While the whistle does work as is, the fipple and outer ring easily move in my mouth. I end up shifting them quite a bit as I play. The other problem is that I have to re-adjust everything after it travels in my bag to a session for the occasional Julia Delaney. I will end up gluing it.
Mine was glued together when I received it a few years ago, but the glue has since come loose.
You can see that there was just a tiny drop of glue on the bottom of the fipple plug, and another tiny drop holding the outer sleeve… also on the bottom side.
You’d have to be very cautious not to get glue in the windway if you repair the whistle, which is no doubt the reason Glenn used only a very small amount originally, and also why it was only applied to the bottom of the fipple plug and outer sleeve.
I haven’t repaired mine, because it stays together well enough without the glue.
I can’t make any reliable glue recommendations, but definitely don’t use commercial PVC glue… it goes through a heating phase that would likely damage the thin outer sleeve.
I put super glue on the bottom of the fipple plug and let it dry. Then put the plug in with the dry glue taking up clearence causing it to stay in place.
That way if it went in to far or not enough I could still move it. Super glue grabs so quick when it is wet that the plug may stop in the wrong place.
Thats why you should assemble the parts first and then let the thin glue soak in to the joints to bond the parts. The thicker CA is only good for stuff like balsa wood, AFAICT.
I wonder if hot glue would be good for this problem. Has anyone ever tried it? I dont think it would melt the plastic…
Super glue is a contact adhesive and is not for filling. Letting it run in may bring it to the windway. I like being able to move the plug to change the tone of the whistle.
It seems to me that it would be very difficult to control a hot glue gun enough to produce such a tiny amount of glue.
Does anyone know what Glen used? Paul? I don’t mean to be prying into trade secrets. I just want to glue my fipple. (Boy, this is the only place I can think of where a person could say that and not scare everyone else.)
I’m not sure if he used anything at all, or was shooting for a friction fit. The head ferrule on my low G is loose enough for me to remove if I want to, but tight enough that it stays put unless I try to move it.
I do know that Glenn used cyanoacrylates and 5 minute epoxy for a number of applications, which is where I learned their use.
It’s the head ferrule that could be just a bit tighter. Another concern I have is that if it does turn around or come off, at home or in transit, I’m afraid the edges of the windway could get damaged.
I’m not familiar with the Water Weasel but will throw out this idea anyway: could you use some very thin paper or perhaps some teflon tape (available at hardware stores in the plumbing section) to make the joints a little tighter so they’d stay together by friction? No hurt in trying as you could always take it apart and remove the paper/tape.
That’s a very good idea. A small stip of scotch tape on the back of the fipple block and on the area where the ferrule covers the tube might do the trick. Thanks!
-My WW low G has a fipple which shifts occasionally if pressed, and I think I recall Glenn advising just one small drop of superglue on the outside-where the bottom of its red fipple meets the sleeving of the head assembly. Make sure if you do this that the fipple is aligned perfectly before glueing as it will remain this way forever. Alignment must be perfect both longitudinally and radially.
-I would avoid putting glue inside the head assembly, and its likely unnecessary as the fipple should already be a snug fit even if its does shift
when pressed occasionally. I’ve never bothered glueing mine down as the problem ranks way down there with other things which can be easily ignored until the second coming.
The previous/original owner has said that he received it that way, which I have no reason not to believe. However, I was wondering if this was common in older WWs, or was this just a mistake that never got corrected? I assume that it is the latter.
