Hey, I’m thinking of taking up tenor banjo sometime soon when I can actually afford to buy one (probably have to sell my dulcijo to do it, though…ugh). I’ve been playing clawhammer for a little over a year now, but my love of ITM has me craving something new. I’ve done a lot of research, but I can’t seem to make up my mind on what the best options would be.
So I’m just gonna throw out some questions, and hopefully someone can with some experience can answer…
17 frets or 19 frets? I guess this depends on the answer to my next question:
GDAE or CGDA? I know there’s pros and cons for each, but which do most of you use?
Does anyone know if the Gold Tone IT-250 is a good purchase? I know the white ladye tone ring is nice for clawhammer, but I’m not sure how it would do for ITM.
Also, if I wanted to transfer what I know to the mandolin family, which instruments match up with the different tunings? I know mandolin is GDAE, but beyond that I’ve read completely opposite things at different websites. Also, while I’m at it, is a mandola and an octave mandolin the same thing, or not?
p.s. I work 3rd shift, and sleep weird hours, so I may not be able to respond to any comments until tomorrow. Thanks in advance to anyone that can shed some light for me…
You’ll probably get different answers from different people. My personal preference is for the 17 fret variety. You probably won’t do too much above the 7th fret anyways (I’ve randomly done stuff up to the 12th fret but, that’s as far as I’ve ever ventured) and it just feels a little more right to me.
As far as tuning, I would go with GDAE. The music can be played in any tuning with practice, I suppose but, I’ve found this one to be easiest for trad music. It will also make it easier to pick up the mandolin/octave mando/fiddle if you decided to do that. The mandola is (typically) tuned the same as well but just a 4th down (CGDA).
I have one, i like it fine. I’ve been in email contact with some knowledgeable people who have told me it is a good banjo, especially if set up well. I have it tuned GDAE, as i am primarily a mandolinist. CGDA is problematic for most session keys though you can capo up two frets to DAEB.
Also, while I’m at it, is a mandola and an octave mandolin the same thing, or not?
This is a terminology thing, in the US a mandola is equivalent to the viola tuning a fifth below the mandolin/violin (CGDA) where an octave mandolin is a full octave below (GDAE). As i understand it, these two would be referred to in the UK as tenor mandola and octave mandola respectively.
There’s no hard consensus about the 17 vs 19 fret thing; most top players in Ireland seem to prefer 19 fret instruments (with a few notable exceptions like Angelina Carberry and Mary Shannon). I prefer to use mandolin fingering rather than change fingerings to suit the longer 19-fret scale, so i’m happy with the 17-fret.
Thanks for the replies and private messages. It looks like I’ll narrow the eventual search down to a 17 fret tenor, and use the GDAE tuning.
Personally, I would recommend you look around for a Vintage one as those are sometimes in the same price range as the Gold Tones and have some history on them. You just missed the one I had for sale for a long time. Just remember that a TB is very piercing and a bad player can ruin a good session. Of course I love the sound a good player adds.
Yeah, it’s gonna take a LOT of practice for me. I play some guitar, but it’s more rhythm-based than melody based. And I’ve only skimmed the surface of melodic clawhammer banjo. Playing melody with a pick/plectrum will any competence will require many long hours in front of the metronome, I believe.
The good thing is that I’m so timid, I don’t think I’ll sit in on a session until I’m 100% certain I won’t screw it up!
I would definately recommend you using a 19 fret banjo. They have better tone and play better.
This statement may be a bit of a generalisation. It comes down to personal preference. A banjo with a good tone ring that is set up well will have better tone than a badly set up cheapie regardless of neck length. The playability of a banjo depends largely on neck width, neck length and fretboard action. 17-fret banjos generally have an advantage on the first two points.
Banjos that "play better"are generally the ones with a well practiced and talented individual sitting directly behind them. 
If I may add my opinion. I think that the issue 17 or 19 can have more to do with the set up as was mentioned. However, regardless of how a 17 is set up or indeed how heavy the string guage you use, you will have tuning problems. This is accepted and is also the experience of Angela Carberry. By tuning problems I mean the accuracy of pitch, hence the use of heavy guage to try to alleviate this, and the act of keeping the banjo in tune. Again in my opinion, if both banjos were of equal quality and set up equally well, the 19 fret will give you a better sound with less grief and I say this as someone who has played both and each of good quality.
I agree with banjoman, 19 fret is the way to go.
There’s a 19 fret Gold Tone Cripple Creek I’m looking right now. It’s about the only thing I might be able to afford this year unless I find a good used one.
check Bernunzio Vintage Instruments, they usually have some reasonably-priced vintage TBs in stock.
I see what you mean about tuning problems. I agree that for high=-end instruments, 19 fret instruments are, generally speaking, a little better with regard to intonation than 17 fret instruments but I too have played both and found that in my case the 17-fret faired better than the 19-fret intonation-wise. Because it’s tone was more what I was after for session playing, I stuck with the 19-fret and messed around with string gauges and bridge angle to try to minimise the intonation issues. If I was using it primarily for solo playing I would have kept the 17-fret. I think intonation is always going to pose some problems, regardless of neck length. Two banjos would have to be pretty close (quality-wise) for intonation to become the deciding factor. The 17-fret does have a playability advantage for people wih small hands who use a mandolin-style finger position. I still don’t believe that 19-fret instruments necessarily have better tone or playability.
There are a couple of decent looking Framus 19-fret Tenors on eBay at the moment. I wouldn’t generally recommend eBay for instruments but I did pick up a great Framus 5-string on eBay a couple of years ago for way below its market value.
Mmmmmm a couple of nice Vegas and a Ludwig there too!
I am using a 19 fret samick at the moment. It was ok when I started learning to play tenor was originally playing irish on a 5 string in single string style, I dont’ recommend it. The return isn’t worth the effort put forth if you are planning to play irish music fulltime I want to get a 17 fret banjo next I think. Regardless of some of the tuning and tonal problems being mentioned here, I tend to have problems with my wrist playing a 19 fret in certain keys especially Bb and F because of the reach required. My other problem is that the samick korean made is more like a 4 string neck plopped on a 5 string body, I had to do some major messing around to get that banjo to stop ringing all over itself 
I am looking to spend anywhere between 500 and 1000 dollars for a good old 17 fretter if anyone knows of one for sale..
Sincerely, Jack A.
I own and play both a 17 and 19 fret tenor banjo. I have the 19 strung CGDA and the 17 strung GDAE (some of you may remember the heckuva time I had getting it strung that way!).
The 17 is a lovely little 1918 Washburn with a birds eye maple pot and calfskin resonator. Lovely craftsmanship, plays very well, with a pleasing tone (no tone ring, mind you).
The 19 is a 1950’s Kay tenor, plywood pot and plastic head, I highly modified with a lever mute, and other suck innovations like a descrete pick holder, and DIY bottle opener tailpiece (really handy for those long sessions!).
I much prefer the playability of the 17, the frets are closer, and most Irish music you will be playing will likely work best with GDAE tuning (corisponds to violin, mandolin, Irish bouzouki…etc). The tone (I can back this up from playing other 17 fretters as well) is clearer, brighter, and really has some twang. The 19, being tuned CGDA is not always easy to integrate with other session instruments. I usually end up capoing it at the second fret, changing it to DAEB (the range of a tin whistle). The tone is much more mellow due to the longer length, but can be hard to move around on the neck.
I’d reccomend a 17 fret, clafskin is a fantastic tone wise if you can get it, or have someone put it on for you. The 17 fret, tuned either CGDA or GDAE, will help you transition over to mandolin much faster, if that is a goal of yours. The biggest thing is whether or not you plan to play with other instruments, in a session or what have you. For that application, I strongly reccomend the GDAE tuning, since it will mesh better with other instrument’s ranges, and allow you to pick up songs by ear and by watching other’s fingers (violins, mandolins…etc) positions.
Good luck!
(oh, and the 17 fret, if anyone is interested, may be for sale with a nice flight case. I need to finance a set opf Uilleann pipes! I also have a nice 5-string banjo for sale. PM me if anyone is interested)