I did a C & F search and could not find anything about this.
What I know.
From making PVC flutes, G and concert D, the size of the embouchure does impact the loudness and need for air. The bigger the hole, more air.
Now, not having a chance to try a tapered design I do not know how much more or less wind it would take.
And spending some time reading Harry Bradley’s comments about this I know that most of the waste of air is bad technique,( I am guilty of that), and it should not take any more air that the TW.
But I cannot manage to get this going.
So would a tapered bore flute be easier to fill?
Many thanks in advance for any help from the knowledgeable Flautists of C & F
Louder, yes, generally. More air, no, no, no! The bigger hole usually just offers you a wider blowing edge to hit. The larger area allows more space for the oscillation and that relates to better volume.
So … if the embouchure hole is properly cut … a flute is going to be much more air efficient than a whistle. You, the player form the windway. You focus the air stream on the embouchure edge to create the oscillations that make the sound. It’s up to you generally and not the flute.
Again, if the embouchure hole is properly cut, yes. The tapered bore (assuming the taper is in the body) will create more “back pressure” in the flute, the air kind of pushes back and supports the tone. That does not mean it is easier to play. A flute, no matter the design, is always filled with air. We do not play in a vacuum. Right? While we might speak about “filling” the flute, we don’t really have to do that. The air is there. You are trying to get the column of air in the flute vibrating which all happens depending on how you deliver the air to the blowing edge of the flute. It’s up to you.
A cylindrical flute will still speak easily if the embouchure is cut properly and the player hits the spot with a focused jet of air.
He’s right. And let’s not trivialize that. Developing a decent embouchure is like training for an ultra marathon. That can take time, a lot of time for some. Be patient. Visualize what you are trying to accomplish with those lips. Get some instruction if necessary. Keep with it. It will come to you in time.
Remember, it’s called playing. So have fun.
Feadoggie
Yeah, I guess there are some of them around here too.
Have you tried putting lip plates on your PVC flutes to build up the wall thickness? I think it’s easier to get more volume with a thicker wall at the embouchure (like 5 mm or 0.2 inches). You might find it gives you more “resistance” to blow against. Thin walled headjoints can be played loud too, but are less forgiving I think.
Some of my flutes are conical and some are cylindrical. Honestly, they are all about the same as far as air requirements. The breathiest of mine is a conical one and I’m not sure if the breathiness is due to the huge crack in the head joint or my playing. I have found wood flutes take a few minutes to get going sometimes. I have to endure a little breathiness before they kick in. But the breathiness is in the sound not really in how much air it takes from me.
Thank you for the explanation/tips and education. I did not realize just how important developing good chops is! Sorry for the jazz word, only one I know.
I guess I just have to persevere with my PVC home made gear until later.
Yes, it’s hard to over-estimate high many flute playing problems developing a good embouchure solves.
And the emphasis on patience is spot on. One suggestion: invest in a tipple (or maybe a bamboo (e.g. Billy Miller))
flute in a higher key, e.g. Bb or A. Playing such flutes makes more demands on one’s embouchure,
and you can practice/play tunes, and they’re fun to play.
