All,
Could someone direct me to some information on the pros and cons of block mounted/post mounted/rod keys?
Thanks,
Tony
A search should help. We’ve been there. Best
pin mounts may be added to a keyless flute but blocks aren’t typically added to a keyless flute; rather they are usually turned at the sametime that the body of the flute is turned as they are all connected as one piece of wood.
It’s been a while but I think I remember Terry McGee’s site having a pretty good explanation of this. (Could be wrong)
Hammy will make a keyed body while you play your keyless, then swap them out later. (I’m sure you know this)
I know that Dave Copley will do this too, and pretty sure Casey Burns, as well. There are likely many other makers that would work with you on that, and:
I’m sure there are good points to be found regarding all the varieties of key mounts. 
Mary
I think it will be a long time before I get a keyed flute. Unfortunately! I can’t afford one, for one thing… 
I just happened to follow a link on a thread to Healy’s website and was looking around there when I saw a rod key system and that got me to thinking (danger 
). I had read that if you are going to use keys a lot, post mount is preferable to block mount (I don’t recall why ), so I was wondering where rod systems fall into that. I kind of like the way they look.
Cheers,
Tony
That’s my rod key flute at:
http://www.skiphealy.com/frames/fr_instruments.htm
Its a lot more rugged construction than the pin mounts, which I’ve not had good luck with. (Havn’t had any trouble with the block mounts either, but I don’t have a contempoary one)
Jack
I like the way that looks! It appears that it has a D foot? I wonder if any other makers use that system?
Thanks,
Tony
I keep thinking I ought to add another foot, but I really can’t justify it right now. Havn’t seen any other makers with the rod system (for ITM)
http://www.skiphealy.com/frames/fr_instruments.htm
Oh,..to see the flute click on “Custom Designs” in the page above then click on the individual photos.
Jack
Block mounting is perfectly functional and durable,
in my experience. Also it’s aesthetically pleasing.
I saw my first post mounted keyed flute last night.
Generally in discussions here I believe people
have said that these work fine, too. I’ve
never seen this rod system.
Best
I’ve had both good and frustrating examples of both pin- and block-mounted keywork. The frustrating part is usually wandering keys with weak springs or overly resistant action due to the spring-and-channel interface, however the mounting is done.
I’m waiting to be reacquainted with my pin-mounted Williams 8-key, but I recall that I was impressed with the keywork’s almost bulletproof stability and ease of operation. Other pin mountings I’ve played have been just as dodgy as some Pakistani-made block mounted sticks. Block mountings can crack, but this is not common, and cyanoacrylate will take care of that just fine. There are makers out there whose block mountings give excellent stability to the keywork. Pin mounts tend to be more durable in the long run, but that’s not necessarily a plus in itself.
My point in all this is that ease of action, a good seal, ergonomics, and stability are the things I look for first.
Aesthetically, you may want to consider block mounts. At least people are less likely to ask if it’s some kind of clarinet.
Actually, the comment I usually get is: “What the @#$%$#@ is that ?”
I don’t suppose it helps that you come into a bar a bit early for the new session and slap a pistol case down on the table (draws enough attention by itself) In the right cirumstances the “opening” of the case can be downright interesting…
Yeah, there’s a fellow who’d ask me, “And didja bring yer weapon?” Gives it a whole new meaning, doesn’t it. I’ve not seen rod mounting, either. I checked the link you offered, Jack, but I was hoping for more intimate closeups on the action. 
So far I’ve had more key-seating problems with block mounts than posts. It seems like the block mount keys have longer springs … thus, a wee bit weaker? Just a thought.
The length of the spring shouldn’t matter (in terms of it being strong enough to do the job) as there are ways of compensating for length. Block mounted keys often start having problems when the wood changes dimension (swelling or shrinking) due to changes in humidity, which causes the keys to bind against the key channel in the block, etc. Obviously this is not an issue with post mounted keys.
Loren
Talking about keys…
on the hamilton’s site, he talks about 4 keys flutes as C, G#, and two Fs while on the wooden flute site, they talk about 4 keys flutes as short F, G#, Bb and Eb.
WHat would be, acoording to you flutist friends, the best combination for a 4 keys flute?
Another question, why do you need a high C key? Can’t you play a high C with a C key?
Leonard - you’ll probably get a lot of answers on this! My personal preference for a 4 key flute would be Eb, Bb (long, operated by RH thumb), G# and long Fnat - that’s provided the OXXO OOO version of Cnat is good on the flute.
My choices are likely because I play a lot of classical for relaxation (also having a blast play Scott Joplin right now). My current flute is a 9 key/10 touch instrument, but the above 4 are the ones I use most often. Next in line would be the short Fnat then the LH Bb. I never, ever use the C key.
Eric
Leonard
What Jayhawk said, while I was writing this too long thing!
It depends on how many keys that you want to be able to play in and the flute makers compromises.
Starting with a D flute (two sharps, F & C), ignoring half holing, long and short F natural keys, modes, whatever!
Adding a G# key gives you the key of A, adding a D# (Eb) key gives you the key of E.
let’s go the other way…
If there is a C natural fingering that works for the flute, and you can play that fingering at speed from and to all of the other notes, then you do not need a C natural key. This is the key of G.
Next would be the key of C. You need a F natural key.
Key of F, you need a Bb key.
Key of Bb, you need a Eb key
Soooo. Hammy seems to be suggesting that, for a four key flute, you should make the keys of C, G, D and A as playable as possible adding the Bb and Eb if going for a 6 key.
Keys for F, G#, Bb and Eb are the minimum needed to play chromatically.
Denny