I play Irish whistle over year and half and I would like to learn Irish Flute. Before I am going to buy a Irish flute, I have several questions. I would appreciate if you could help me on these questions.
Are the finger charts the same for flute and whistle?
Does D key flute have the same pitch sound as high D whistle and the low G whistle the same sound as low G flute? I like the sound range of Bb, Low A and Low G whistles and try to avoid high D whistle.
I can use Low G whistle to play G and C and Low A whistle to play A and D. Does flute have the same key system?
I have small hand and Low G whistle probably the maximum I can stretch my fingers. What is the hole distance of flute, longer or shorter than the same key of whistle?
(2) The D flute has the same pitch as the low D whistle. The piccolo has the same pitch as the high D whistle. The G flute has the same pitch as the low G whistle.
(3) Yes, but you rarely see people playing anything other than a D flute. This is partly because flutes are more expensive than whistles and people don’t buy as many of them.
(4) Similar to the low D whistle, but since you hold it differently, a little easier to manage. Also, some flute makers offer flutes for people with small hands. I have small hands myself, and the flute i play (Eamon Cotter) is a stretch for my hands, but with proper hand positioning i can play it just fine.
You can also use piper’s grip on flute to cover all the holes, if you have small hands. You needn’t use your fingertips, if you choose a different grip. I find the D flute more comfortable to hold than a Low D whistle; I think almost anyone can manage to play a D flute.
The basic notes have the same fingerings between flute and whistle. D E F# G A B C# D for the D instruments. When you start trying other notes, even C-natural, you’ll find some slight differences.
The common D flute is one octave lower than the high D whistle. The common G flute is the same as the common (low) G whistle.
Yes, pretty much. As noted, a collection of multiple size flutes costs a lot more than a collection of whistles. Most people have just a D flute.
I can’t give you a really good answer here. The common knowledge seems to be that a D flute is easier to reach than a low D whistle. I have a G flute, and the holes are extraordinarily easy to reach. Almost too close together. Several flute makers have models especially for people with smaller hands. Casey Burns is one such maker. I’m sure there are others.
Thanks for the information from all of you and they are really helpful. I am thinking of buying a Olwell bamboo flute. I checked HMT website I saw the list of Olwell bamboo flutes. C sprano, Bb sprano, A, G, F alto, Eb alto, Low D and low C. I assume the equivalent whistle keys are:
Flute C sprano - Whistle high C
Flute Bb sprano - Whistle high Bb
Flute A - Whistle low A
Flute G - Whistle low G
Flute F alto - Whistle low F
Flute Eb alto - Whistle low Eb
Flute Low D - Whistle low D
Am I right? Is it a good idea to start learning flute with Olwell bamboo flute?
I’d order an Olwell straight from PAtrick Olwell, rather than through HMT. Their website states a wait time of at least six months, but you can usually get them faster right from Patrick.
I also recommend Steve Cox’s bamboo flutes, which you can see at
I have an F, and it’s excellent; well in tune, very pretty, great workmanship, responsive, and has a full, loud, rich tone. Everyone who’s heard it has been very impressed. It only took about three weeks to get it through Steve, who also provides a nice hemp bag with the flute and provided great service.
I don’t think you can go wrong with either an Olwell or one of Steve’s bamboo flutes.
I would like to add one note on reach for those not familiar with both instruments:
Even though the right-hand reach (the distance between the tone holes) on a flute may be as large or larger than on most low whistles, it is more the necessary angle of the hand than the reach alone which makes low whistle so difficult to play.
Because on a flute the hand and wrist are straight when playing flute, only a person with very small hands should have any difficulty. My wife’s hands are larger than mine–for a man I have small hands and short fingers–but I have never had any difficulty making the reach on any flute without using piper’s grip.
Doubtless I’m the exception that proves the rule,
but I had a lot of trouble with my Olwell bamboo
flute in D and finally sold it. Given my experience
I consider it a demanding flute for beginners.
I think the Olwell is a good beginner’s flute because it’s an inexpensive professional flute. Meaning, it’s very high-quality and well-tuned; near the pinnacle of bamboo flutes (if not the top). The outlay of money is much less than for a questionable low-priced timber or polymer instrument. And, I think the bamboo flute embouchure is relatively forgiving. You can’t tune the instrument, but for learning, I think it’s great.
And let me second the recommendation for Steve Cox. His flutes are nice, too!
KC,
Ditto what everybody said. I’d add that there are different systems (Pratten, Rudall, Metzler, etc.) and that the hole size and spacing may differ considerably from one model or maker to another. Check out Terry McGee’s web site for some discussion of this.
Another question. What are the differences of the sound (or tone) between Irish whistle and Irish flute with the same key. i.e. Does the G Irish flute produce the exactly same sound as Low G Irish whistle for the same song?
Well, KC, they’re not the same instrument. You can hear pretty good examples on Michael Eskin’s website, on which he plays the same tune on several different instruments (including flutes and a low D whistle).
You asked about the reasons, though. Well, there are several, the most important of which is the embouchure. The flute, blown transversely across the hole, just sounds VERY different from a fipple flute. The fipple is invariable, whereas the lips can make many minor adjustments.
Another is quite likely the fact that most whistles are cylindrical, and flutes (simple-system) are conically-bored. The example above demonstrates a conical, metal low D versus a conical, wood D whistle.
Remember, too, in those comparison files that the Copeland low D is arguably the most flute-like of low whistles. If you look around the web page, you can hear other low whistles, and some high ones too. Along with several flutes.
I guess the main point, which might or might not be Pan’s point, is that they’re not interchangeable. The sound is quite different. Sure, you can play the same pitches on a low D whistle and a D flute, but you can also play those pitches on a clarinet . . . or a piano.
the trouble with my Olwell bamboo D
was that I couldn’t play the
low D and E in tune, they went flat always.
But this may well have been me, as I was
even more of a newbie to the flute
than I am now. Given the maker, I
reckon I was the problem. But I didn’t
have the problem on other flutes. I rather
wish I had it back, now. One thing was
that Olwell places the embouchure hole
in from the holes, closer to your face,
as it were, and my inexperience with
that may have partly explained
my problem.
That’s why I have doubts about
the Olwell bamboo for newbies, anyhow.
Also it was demanding breathwise and controlwise.
and as I recall the holes were big.
But I’m quite open to the idea that
this is my idiosyncracy
I think the Sweetheart flutes are good
for newbies–especially the maple for 250.
I play mine a great deal, in fact, and consider
it a good flute. Easy to play and it’s wood. These
are under-rated, I think. These are common flutes,
Gordon once said, which is fair, but they are
good common flutes, fun to play, and in some venues
they can shine. Exceedingly easy to care for.
A more standard newbie
flute is the Dixon polymer three piece (about
200), though
the embouchure is a bit demanding–still
it does the job.
I play Patrick Olwell bamboo flutes in low C, D and Eb and they play tremendously well, beautifully and completely in tune.
You have to play the bottom notes in good Irish style - blow them hard and with a solid embouchure and they will roar and hum better than on almost any other flute I’ve tried (I’ve tried lots). I recommend Patrick’s bamboos without reservation. You just have to play them the way they were meant to be played… with guts.
That said, after a couple of years of flute playing, I find the bamboo Olwells I have to be far easier to play than my wooden Olwell or Grinter, and can be played exceptionally sweetly and also rougher than the devil in a foul mood. The bamboo sounds like nothing else I’ve heard.
Best,
Chris
Yes, my experience is more like Chris’s than Jim’s. Jim’s another one I love to contradict, it would seem.
My opinion is that you’d be much better off with a bamboo Olwell as a starter than any of the polymer instruments around. You could buy a D and an Eb for less than the price of any of those instruments and arguably have an even more musical means of expression.
Also, if you deal with Pat directly, I’m sure he’d put the embouchure hole in line with the finger holes if you so desire. I play like Pat does, I guess, with the blow hole rotated a little towards me . . .
