I have had a 5-key flute on the shelf for a couple of years. It was a flea market find, sold to me by someone who really didn’t know what they had.
I had always intended to have it restored. Dark, heavy wood (ebony?) with silver fittings (nickle silver, not sterling?) & 5 keys.
Once somewhat playable, it now suddenly has a crack in the headpiece that you can see daylight through!
I do not think it is a particularly valuable instrument-No unknown Rudall & Rose here- But a venerable instrument all the same.
I have seen a few restorers mentioned in this list, and ask you all for advice on whether such cracks can be filled & fixed. Located on the side opposite the windway, runs almost the length of the head joint.
I understand that without seeing, it’s impossible for an accurate assessment, so I’ll post a pic. Any restorers can email me privately.
Thanks!
A lot depends upon how much you want to spend to fix it. Luckily the crack isn’t through the embouchure hole. There are a few folks listed at http://www.woodenflute.com who do restoration and a few of them read this board.
What I just did recently was buy a cheap no-name German flute off ebay and have been slowly cleaning it up and trying to get it playable. There was a crack running the length of the headjoint that was leaking air rendering it unplayable.
Since I paid less than $120 for it, and I bought it with the intention of fixing up myself, I decided to just go for broke.
On the advice of Terry McGee, I duct taped a wine bottle pump to the slide, laid down a bead of superglue, pulled the pump to suck in the glue while covering the emboucure hole with my thumb, and repeated every few minutes until a tight seal was formed.
This worked nicely, and is non-permanent should I ever decided to take it to a real restoration expert. However, this could come undone in response to extreme temperature changes and is definitely not something I would have attempted myself on a nicer flute.
After polishing the nicker silver parts and giving it a good coat of almond oil, it looks pretty sharp.
I still have several leaky pads which render the flute unplayable below G, this weekend I’m going try to make my own with silicone.
good luck,
Eddie
Thanks, Eddie
If can get up the courage to attempt it, the wine pump and super glue sounds like a clever method to seal the headjoint. I wouldn’t think superglue was very reversable, though.
At least my keys and action are in pretty good shape, which leads me to believe that it was a well-made instrument. From the limited research I’ve done, it seems to be late 19th C. I have not found a maker’s stamp, yet.
There are a few other repairs that my local instrument shop should be able to handle, if I can’t. I seem to recall a recent topic on this list that recommended using synthetic thread (polyester?) or silk as it swells less than linen or cotten, is better for replacing joint windings.
Gen question to the list: Will high-end restorers take the time to work on a nondescript but old flute? To me, old instruments, even ones without a pedigree, are like forgotten children that need special care.
Thanks for your suggestions and comments.
Larry
Acetone dissolves superglue nicely. Superglue also breaks down under high temperature (not so high that it would scorch the wood).
Will high-end restorers take the time to work on a nondescript but old flute?
I don’t see why not. You’re paying, after all. 
Perhaps the best way to get a semi-accurate estimate of the cost and trouble is to take a few pictures of the crack at different angles and then email those pictures to different makers / repairers. Ask them for a price quote and turnaround time. Also figure in the postage rate and mailing delay depending on where they are compared to you.
While doing this you can also submit to them as much information as you have about the flute and ask if it’s worth expert attention (and the price tag that comes along with it) or if you should just have a go at it yourself.
While some restorers will always say “Send it in” because that’s how they pay the rent, others will be pretty straightforward about the value of your instrument compared to the price of the repairs. In any case, it gives you the opportunity to make your decision based on more information rather than less, which is usually a good way to go.
Take care,
John
Rhodeirish:
Brilliant advice, and you host a smashing site for Rhode Island session community. Taking digital files of the damage this weekend.
Now I just need a list of makers/restorers, eastern US preferred, but not excluding the excellent restorers on US west coast.
I’ve not wrapped the tenons yet, but from what I’ve read cotten/hemp thread can be used if you seal it with corkgrease to keep it from absorbing the moisture. You need to grease it anyway so that it slides in cleanly.
I made my own corkgrease by melting equal parts beeswax and vaseline. Cheap and smells nice.
If you do decide to do it yourself, carefull applying the glue, I suffered from a little run off. I was able to get ride of it witha little acetone, buffing, and oiling the surface. Acetone will disolve it, as will high heat, so it’s not a permanent solution. Here’s a good example fo the right way to do it:
http://www.mcgee-flutes.com/headcrack.html
You may want to try using a syringe to be a little more accurate. You may also want to read Terry McGee’s original post from earlier this week, see http://archive.woodenflute.com.
Eddie
I’m a little embarrassed that I posted such inaccurate info about my own flute. Granted, it has sat neglected and ignored.
Crack does go through embouchure, and tuning joint as well.
It has 6 keys. How did I miss one?
I’ve made contact with Mr. Healy, and we’ll see what he says.
Thanks again for all the advice. Back to working on my embouchure!
Olehan
Cracks through the embouchure hold are tricky, I believe they can effect the tone if the original shape isn’t maintained.
Good luck.
Eddie