But can I add something to the pudding. The cover over the fipple plug is cut from the stuff you’re making the whistle out of and split down the back. It then slips easily over the plug making a nice airtight fit. I assume that pvc pipe can’t be had in neat fit size reductions and splitting the cover is a simple solution.
Another solution is just as simple but means you don’t have to cut the plug cover. PVC when heated (not burnt) over the gas stove bcomes malleable and retains shape once cooled. So… heat up the end of some of your PVC and shove it over another piece. When it’s cool, eh presto, a block cover that is a nice neat fit.
The whistle I made had a wooden plug turned on the lathe from the first stuff I saw; a bit of pine. No good, it sucked up water like a sponge and ruined all my sanding.
Continuing on from the bit about heating PVC above I heated another bit and shoved it inside a bit of scrap PVC. Eh presto again, a piece of pipe to fit snuggly inside the whistle bore. Now I have a PVC windway and no problem with moisture attacking the fipple block.
Does that make sense? Looking at the end before a mouthpiece is shaped you would see three PVC tubes one inside the other. The middle one is the whistle proper the outer one is the fipple block cover and the inner one is the fipple block itself which has to be filled with a wooden plug.
Needless to say but here it is anyway; SAFETY FIRST
Sometimes, I’ll use a hot crafting iron (like a soldering iron, but with more attachments…like a woodburner) to cut the windways and such, and to soften up the blade to I can bend it down to where the sound comes out cleaner and smoother.
Yeah, the first instrument I ever made (bamboo flute) was made without any knowledge of the logistics of instrument building. After a while, I decided to tackle whistlemaking, and I came across that site. I committed myself to putting those instructions to memory, and with the help of Daniel’s TWCalc, and basic trial/error, I can make a whistle at my leisure.
You know, even if a person isn’t planning on making a lot of whistles or even a perfect one for himself, I think it would be good to make one because that way you will understand how a whistle really works and that cannot help but make you a better player. That is a neat website.
As someone who has started playing whistle and flute, oh, maybe 2 weeks ago, I was thrilled to find these great instructions on whistle construction. Now I should be able to make my own whistles, which will go with the “D” and “G” flutes I’ve already made!
I’ve made a couple of whistles using these instructions and then also adapted them to copper pipe. I really like the idea of the block cover because it locates the bottom of the blade almost exactly at the same height as the top of the fipple block - something very difficult to achieve with PVC if you have to cut a channel in the block to make the windway. The B-flat whistle I made from 3/4" PVC using these instructions is one of my favorites.
For copper tubing, I found that I did need to cut a channel - the tubing is too thin to make a proper windway otherwise - but I made a C-sharp (It was supposed to be a C whistle, but you know - stuff happens ) whistle from 1/2 copper tubing using the same notion of a block cover (not slit - made from a connector) that is also very nice. It’s hard to beat the price of these whistles, and they’re a lot of fun to make. If you take a little trouble, you can also make them look pretty nice, and it’s really cool to be able to experiment with different parameters first hand. Does it count as WhOA if you make them yourself?
I personally think there should be a another officially recognized disorder called Whistle Obsessive Making Disorder (Whom or Whomd (i always cut myself when playing with sharp objects)). This disorder applies to anyone who compulsively cleans out their stash of PVC or copper pipe in order to try that other tweak they saw on the C&F site. Picture a disheveled individual with bandaids on their hands walking slow through the plumbing section of the hardware store as in a trance, humming some unrecognizable jig. Then you will know the full scope of WhOMD. We must help these poor individuals. I think we should form a support group.
A very smooth surface can be made on wood by continuing the process you started. Sand the wood smooth first then wet it and the grain will rise. Let it dry and wet it again and the wood will rise a little less. Let it dry and sand. About two or three times should get it very smooth and not rising. Then coat it with something safe since it is close to the mouth.
olive oil.
Or you can melt some beeswax and soak the plug for a few seconds. That will water proof it completely. You can buy beeswax at most craft sores. And it smells good. <>
While your piece is on the lathe, try holding a beesway candle to it, then burnishing the wax into the wood with the back of cloth sandpaper. I use this on utensils, tool handles, plugs, conducting batons, and bowls. Regular old parafin wax works well too.
The downside is that after waxing, glue won’t stick. Pinning or pressure-fitting still works.
LOL, I fixed the problem with getting the wooden plug to stay smooth. Would you believe I left it out altogether. I found some 1/2" OD pvc tube that fits beautifully inside the 1/2" ID whistle. If the mouthpiece is not shaped but cut square your bottom lip shuts off the hole in the inner pipe. ie no need for any wood. In other words the whistle is hollow right through. This is handy in that you can place it on a whistle stand either end up. All I have to do now is make a whistle stand.
