First Bouzouki Advice – Teardrop or F Style?

Hi,

New member, first post looking for some advice on bouzoukis.

I’m a longtime guitarist looking to move into fretted instruments tuned in fifths, bouzouki seemed a sensible place to start due to the scale length similarity with the guitar.

Budget wise I’m looking to spend £300-400, can’t really justify more though I know around £600 up I could get something really decent 2nd hand.

My shortlist falls into two types:
Trad teardrop – available options Ozark 2243 http://www.ozark-acoustic.com/folk/bouzoukis.html, trinity college TM-375 http://www.sagamusic.com/catalog/details.asp?ProductID=TM-375, Hudson DBZ100 http://www.cranesmusicstore.com/hudsondbz100irishbouzoukisolidtop-p-80.html or vintage VBZ375 http://www.highlystrung.co.uk/acatalog/mandola-bouzouki.html

Or F-style – Ozark 2244 http://www.ozark-acoustic.com/folk/bouzoukis.html or Hudson 1007 http://www.cranesmusicstore.com/hudson1007fstylebouzoukisunburstfinish-p-905.html

I may be wrong but all the above, teardrop and f-style respectively, seem to be the same instrument badged differently?

I’ve played both the hudson options and preferred the f-style which seemed to have a woodier less jangly sound.

Has anyone any experience or thoughts on the options before I decide?

Thanks

The F style complicates building but adds nothing at all to the sound, so you can decide for yourself how cool you need to look. My view is that at all price points below ‘deluxe’, you’re likely going to get more instrument for your money by sticking with teardrop.

There is that :blush:
Does the arched top, f holes versus flat top, round hole not much of a difference?
I’m leaning more towards the teardrop due to price, and I suspect once strung with unison rather than octave strings I’ll probably be glad of the brighter tone.

You probably knew this, but a good place to ask would be the mandolin cafe ( http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/ ) - A site much like C & F but focused on mandolins rather than whistles. The site has a message board for Bouzoukis and the posters there are very informed.

Hi,

Yes, Simon is quite correct when he says that the F style (scrolls and points) adds little if nothing to the overall performance, but significantly to the price.

There are a couple of rules of thumb which, while having many exceptions and being argued a lot, are usfull to those starting out:

Because of the higher cost of manufacture, an A style (the normal name for a tear-drop shape) offers more value for the money. The elaborate design of the F style is mostly decorative and expensive. But exceedingly cool.

Arch-top instruments are louder than flat tops. Arched tops are more expensive. The arched top allows greater pressure to be exerted on the top without collapsing. There is nearly 50 pounds of down force on the soundboard of the average arch top mandolin with a much greater break angle from bridge to tailpiece.

Round/oval holes and F holes (like a violin) offer different sounds. The F holes are brighter with more ‘punch’, the oval holes are woodier and softer. F holes are almost entirely relegated to arch-top instruments while round holes are found in either configuation, and almost exclusively on flat top instruments.

Flat top, round hole instruments are more commonly seen in the Irish session.

Construction is everything. Solid wood tops are nearly universally preferred over laminates. Carved arch tops are superior to steam pressed tops. Tap-tuned arch tops are superior to non-tuned tops.

Again, all that is a generalization of the mass of opinion. All points have exceptions and there are varying experiences everywhere you go.

It’s very fair to say that the Trinity College instruments are remarkably popular in their price range. They are among the most recommended brand for the beginner/intermediate student, and are often the only bouzouki many players ever own.

If I had it to do again, I would start with a Trinity College and end my career with my sights on an arch-top, F hole, tap-tuned instrument as my ultimate choice.

And yes, several, but not all, of those instruments are products of the Saga Guitar Works of China, although they are produced to different specifications for the various badges. So while they are similar, there are differences that are preferred by individual players.

No matter the instrument you choose, allow enough in the budget for a proper set up. All mandolin family instruments benefit remarkably from a good set up, and it often makes the difference between a good performer and an unplayable instrument. There is an old saying that tells about the $500 instrument with proper set up out-performing the $10,000 one without set up.

And by all means do visit mandolincafe. They are the Chiff and Fipple of the mandolin world.

Good advice from Simon and Tim.

F-style for mando family instruments has no benefit at all other than cosmetic for those who like that style. Personally I do like the look, but I don’t think it’s worth the extra it costs. Better, IMHO, to spend it all on quality of construction and sound.

For some reason I always associate F-style mandolins with NASCAR and underaged bourbon consumption. Which is weird, because I was not really familiar with mandolins at all as an underaged bourbon consumer.

Yeah, it’s odd how certain instruments will become iconic. You can play any music on any mandolin, but when I see an F-5, I expect to hear Bluegrass. Someone might play Vivaldi on an F-5, but I expect Foggy Mountain Breakdown at any moment. For me though, despite the extra cost of the F style appointments and the deep association with a particular genre, there’s just something about that shape. I love the elegant simplicity of the A style and the flat-tops, but an F-5 is a sculpture that plays music.

To my ear, the various mandolin designs each have their unique voices. So much so that I often think they should be called by different names, rather than just lumped together as ‘mandolins’. Sure, different examples of each category will have their individual charms, but the categories are distinct to my mind.

The F-5 style is the Bluegrass instrument.

The F holed arch top A style is the general purpose mandolin that every player should have somewhere. I think you can do anything with those and do it well.

The Oval holed arch top (either A or F) is the ‘Old Time’ mandolin.

The flat top is the Irish mandolin to me. Even though I use an F-5 for the purpose, I associate the flat top with Irish music the way the F-5 is Bluegrass.

The bowl back plays classical music. Nothing else sounds like a bowl back for classical. It is a unique voice.

Even the hybrids like the resonator mandolin and the banjoline have their places. I’m not sure what that place is, but they have them. :smiley: