Breaking in the new flute

I’ve finally received my new Pratten-style Olwell keyless blackwood flute, with half-lined (French style) tuning slide, after a long year’s wait. But he states that I shouldn’t play it for more than an hour a day for the first month… pretty painful given a certain amount of excitement and even obsession that I have. If I keep the flute fairly swabbed, can I go beyond this, or am I really risking a crack?

Also, I went to the health food store yesterday, but couldn’t find a bottle of the pharmaceutical grade sweet almond oil yet. I did pick up a bottle of Hain 100% Expeller Pressed Almond oil, with Vitamin E added. Should I go ahead and use some of this, or wait for the better oil?

On both oiling and breaking-in, I don’t think you can do better than follow the maker’s instructions.

I do understand your frustration; that sounds like it’s one lovely, powerful flute!

–James

Scott,

I have excellent self control, just drop the flute off for me at the shop - I’ll give it back when the break-in periond is up. No need to worry, I’m a trained professional :laughing:

Loren
P.S. Check your pm’s.

You have to get pharmaceutical grade almond oil at the . . . pharmacy. :stuck_out_tongue: You might have to ask the pharmacist.

The problem with food-grade oils is that they contain bits of the grain or nut. Flax seed oil, especially the “high lignin” kind is just full of bits. Those bits gunk things up and the oils go rancid almost instantly (especially where I live). Not nice. Filtering them out is difficult, if not impossible, because the particles are so small.

You might also ask Mr. Olwell if you can use refined linseed oil, which is what Casey Burns recommended for my flute. I’ve been impressed with it–no gunking, no stickiness, no rancidity, and it smells great. If it’s ok, you can have it shipped to you from Daniel Smith in Seattle. (This is not boiled linseed, the artist’s stuff, which is highly flammable–it’s just refined linseed.) It’s a good bargain in comparison to pharmaceutical and food-grade oils.

The almond oil is really lovely as a moisturizer–I recall it was Jackie Kennedy’s favorite–so your purchase hasn’t been wasted even if you don’t want to eat it. With the New England winter coming up you’ll be able to make good use of it. Just keep it in the fridge.

Please give us a review or your impressions of the flute, anyhow,
when you have them.

Thanks for the advice all. I did get some sweet almond oil, and have let the flute drink some.

Well, having only two years with Irish flutes, and only a Seery and a Dixon to compare with, I’m not going to be able to give a good comparative review of the flute. [Oh, and I have a Skip Healy, but it’s been in need of repair since I received it… so it’s not a fair comparison.]

The head is a bit lighter than the main body, with reddish grain running through it. I thought at first the endcap was plastic or some other non-wood material, since it’s so perfect, but it is wood also. The lining seems to go almost up to the embouchure hole. I wouldn’t know what to say about the tuning slide. The joints fittings are cork, and the flute slides together quite peacefully. There are a couple of small grain cracks on the head that I was worried about at first, but I’ve had several people look at it (including a professional early instrument repair person), and they say they’re very normal.

So far… it is a stunning difference from the Seery. First of all it is perfectly in tune without me having to struggle [I really do think the Seery that I have has real problems in this area (see http://chiffboard.mati.ca/viewtopic.php?p=256602&highlight=#256602)]. The tone is lovely, though different from my teacher’s Olwell which is fully lined… not as bright (I like the darker, more buttery sound of the partially lined head, but I’m not sure she does). It is much easier to play than the Seery. The upper register is just amazing.

Besides the tone, it is a joy to have a lighter flute that doesn’t get all slippery. I think it’s already making a difference on how fast I can move around on it. I think between not having to force the embouchure as much, and the lighter hold, I’ll be much less fatigued with the Olwell.

As far as “barking” and that kind of thing, we’ll have to see… I’ve not yet had time to really explore what it can do. My worry about the Olwell is that it would be a bit too sweet for my taste. With the partially lined head, I think I need not worry. I heard some really nice Hammy’s when i was at the festival in East Durham this summer. A Hammy would be my second choice, I guess, and I do hope I can make it sound like what I heard… that deep growl and rich tones. I’ve a feeling what I heard was more the players than the flute.

I’m hoping this will be my lifelong and only flute… I’ve no plan to become a collector. I am inspired by Cathal McConnell whom I saw in Edinburgh a couple weeks ago, who has rubberbands around his flute to keep it together. And Mike Rafferty from whom I took a workshop this summer and who still has his original Olwell that he talks about on interviews. I think those who go through lots of flutes and whistles are great, but I’ve just been wanting one solid capable instrument that I can marry, and the rest is about playing. I actually feel a tad guilty about having such gorgeous flute, since I know those with less that can play better, but I’ve been working hard, and hope I’ll live up to it over time.

Anyhow, there you have it… my first impressions, for what they’re worth.

-scott

I’ve been using the Bore Doctor oil on my blackwood Copley - a very light, unprocessed vegetable-based oil. Anyone else have experience with this stuff? It does not go rancid, seems to keep the wood well conditioned, and a little goes a long way. Wondering why it isn’t recommended more often here.

-re. linseed oil terminology: The Daniel Smith “Refined Linseed Oil” I’ve seen has no drying agent(s) added and it makes a nice flute oil. The Daniel Smith “RAW” linseed oil is marked with a flammability caution sticker, and rags soaked in this stuff can actually self-ignite. The volatility of the “Raw” stuff isn’t wanted for flute condtioning or for casual household safety. -Use the “Refined” Daniel Smith stuff instead and save the incendiary qualities for your music!