I’ve Just got a used boehm off e-bay, which some of you may or may not remeber. It’s a Yamaha from the 70’s and is in mostly good condition The keys are not leaky, and only a couple are a little sticky (High c#, The D trill, not of extreme importance to a beginner such as myself, I think). Anyway, It was 132 USD after shipping, which is a steal I suppose.
The problem is the low notes. I can’t sound them. I can sound the low notes on my PVC flutes very easily within the first few minutes, even on the low A (well, it was hard at first, but I figured out the cork was too close, and it was loose! It’s easy as pie after I replaced it).
On my boehm I can play a very strong E, the E flat is a touch weak, the D is even weaker, and C# and C are unreachable. I have two theories on this:
Practice makes perfect.
I’ve noticed that to foot joint is a little loose, and can be wiggled a bit. Having a bit of experience building flutes, and a decent grasp on the fundamentals of acoustic physics, It would seem that even a little thing like this can mess up the stability of the air colum treminally, especially on these low notes, where it needs it most. All the problem notes rely on the stability of the foot joint, by the way.
So, if it’s a matter of practice, what do I do?
And if it’s a matter of fixing the joint, what then?
Wobbly foot joints are common on student flutes, since the students often don’t line them up properly and twist them on. Easily fixed by a flute mechanic (swedging, I think, might be the term). In any case, leaks at this point will affect your responsiveness for those lower notes. So will leaky pads.
A common exercise is to play a strong note (usually the G, All 3 left-hand fingers down), and blow. Work your way down by adding down 1 right-hand finger at a time. It takes a decent flute setup AND embouchure to handle jumping right down over larger intervals. If you read music, you might try Trevor Wye’s volume covering tone exercises.
It sounds to me like you may have a leak (or leaks), possibly due to the mechanism being out of regulation.
Simplest way to find it is with a “leak light”–a long narrow lightbulb you can insert carefully in the bore. Then you lightly close the keys and see where light escapes–this will be the same place air escapes.
From your description, check the regulation on the right-hand key mechanism. The F-key is a frequent problem because it also has to close the F-sharp key and the B-flat key.
There are adjustment screws beside A, F, E, and D keys to regulate their motion with the rest of the mechanism. Tightening the screw makes the primary key close with less force but the other keys it moves close with more force. Loosening the screw has the reverse effect, the primary key will close with more force but the other keys it actuates will close with less force.
The way to adjust these if you can’t get or borrow a leak-light is with a feeler guage. You can make a good one out of the clear plastic a DVD or tape comes wrapped in. Cut a little sliver of it and use it to check how hard each pad hits when you hold the key gently closed. Ideally, on the keys that move other keys, both the primary key and the others that it moves should hit with equal force.
That said, I never adjust my flutes myself. I have an instrument guy I trust completely. He just gave my elderly wooden Haynes some “TLC” the other week, including adjustments, replacing a screw that routinely started working out, and oiling the bore. (Which prompted me to buy some bore oil on the spot.)
I’d recommend asking around to find a respected flute repair specialist. If the problem is mechanical, I’d think it would probably be a leak, over a slightly loose footjoint, but it’s worth having everything looked at.
Is this flute an open-hole? If so, it could be that you’re not completely covering the D hole. This is a common problem. If this is a closed-hole (or open hole flute), it could be a bad leak in the D key. If that’s leaking, everything below it will be unplayable.
I’d agree that finding a good repairman and having him (or her) check over the instrument is your best shot at having the flute play its best and avoiding frustration.
This is particularly true in that there is every chance there may be several small things wrong as opposed to one big one that you could find, fix, and be done with. Trying to track down multiple problems can be a real study in persistance.
Years ago it was my inability to find a repairman who was both competent and affordable that started me on the road to learning how to do my own work on flutes. Also many of these guys seem to be of the “bend the key till it works” school, and you don’t want anybody with that philosophy touching a good flute!
I don’t have a good flute, I have a beginner yamaha from the 70’s that’s probably already been to a repairman. Whether they were good or bad, I can’t say. I’m probably going to go the DYI route no matter what, more as a matter of being a poor college student than as a matter of obstinance or whatever. I am not willing to spend more money on this flute to fix than I paid to buy it.
I already did a few fixes on it with the little screws. The Bb key was a little shady.
I just did a little check for leaks, using a method that seems sensable (correct me if I’m wrong). I put the middle section and the foot together, put one end against the floor, and the other up to my eyeball, and closed all the holes. All I can see is blackness. If I lift any of the key the tinies bit the tube lights up, I guess because it’s all shiny metal. I don’t think their are any leaks.
If this is a valid test, then it’s got to be the foot joint or technique. Of course, I’m just ‘playing by ear’, so it could be all wrong.
It could very well be technique. I’m kinda in my own personal “flute bubble”. In that I’ve only ever played the flutes that I’ve been making myself, so it is possible that my embochure still needs to be developed considerablely, if the wiggly foot is an unlikly cuprate (or even if it is). I’m leaning towards it being a technique problem, as it is easier for me to hit D now, and my Eb is a lot stronger than at the time of the original post. Funny, tempermental instruments… or rather… players.
Aaron, put the thing together, set the end on your thigh, suck through the embouchure hole.
It doesn’t take much to mess up the lower notes.
If you end up deciding to bend the parts holding the pads use something fairly thin under the part of the circle that touches first and press on the bad side. (cutting edge of a butter knife. dimes are a bit thick. Try to support a quarter of the circle or so.)
The open pads should be the same distance from the hole. Ya, that’s a different problem, just try not to add it while attempting to fix an other.
Disclaimer: No one in their right mind would do this!
I would strongly recommend against trying to bend keys. Here’s why:
– Unless you are experienced with woodwind repair, where you think the leaks are may not be where they really are. Your bending is likely to make it worse rather than better.
– A flute which is simply out of regulation may appear to be leaking when in fact it just needs adjusting. If you start bending keys you’ve taken a minor problem and made it into a major problem.
– Silver plating is easily cracked when bent.
– You may break a key, a steel, or a post. Flute mechanisms are delicate.
– Keys on flutes are sometimes made of stamped (also called “cold-forged”) metal. This hardens the metal considerably and it is very likely to break instead of bend.
– Once the keys are bent around, even the best repairman will have difficulty putting on new pads and making the flute play well.
In short, please, don’t even consider ever bending the keys on a flute. It is a huge risk with very little potential gain.
It sounds as if the D pad leaks. The E is okay, the Eb is dodgy, the D is worse and below is inoperable.
It is a used, older, student model flute. It most likely has keys that have been previously bent by someone holding the flute by the keys during assembly/disassembly. (It is likely, to me, that the foot needs work.)
You can have someone hold the Eb closed while you attempt a D. You can press a bit hard on the D while attempting a D. You can put tape over the suckers.
Don’t do anything with the C# & C 'til the D works…
