Wood Whistle/Flute Repair

The Ultimate On-Line Whistle Community. If you find one more ultimater, let us know.
Post Reply
User avatar
WyoBadger
Posts: 2708
Joined: Wed Jun 27, 2001 6:00 pm
antispam: No
Please enter the next number in sequence: 8
Tell us something.: "Tell us something" hits me a bit like someone asking me to tell a joke. I can always think of a hundred of them until someone asks me for one. You know how it is. Right now, I can't think of "something" to tell you. But I have to use at least 100 characters to inform you of that.
Location: Wyoming

Post by WyoBadger »

This is a continuation of another thread that got off onto repairing cracks in wood flutes. You know how I hate being off topic. Hee hee.

I have a bamboo flute in G which developed huge cracks at the head end due to the dry air up here. More specifically, the cracks would open up when I played for a long time. I thing this is caused by the inside wood swelling with the moisture, while the outside has actually shrunk a bit from the dry air.

To fix it, tried super glue, but it didn't work. Finally, I simply let the inside dry out, shrinking the cracks down to a hairline, then screwed on a couple of padded hose clamps. They don't look nice, but the flute still plays nicely, the cracks can't get bigger, and it was a really cheap repair!

I'm guessing David's work will look nicer, though, and you won't have to retighten the screws after every gig. (:

T
User avatar
RudallRose
Posts: 2404
Joined: Tue Aug 07, 2001 6:00 pm

Post by RudallRose »

What you did with the hose clamp (yep....did it myself once to hold a crack until I could get to it...funny looking thing) is essentially the same as "banding" the instrument, which is wrapping a silver (or other alloy) around the instrument to hold the crack from creeping further.
Actually, I keep the hose clamps handy in case a flute comes in with a mighty crack and I can't work on it right away. it's dry here, too, so the clamp keeps it in check until I'm ready to work on it.
Word of advice, though: The clamp will mar the wood/bamboo unless you cover it with something first. I use masking tape and that works fine to keep the clamp from scratching the wood.
The Super glue you used didn't work because, sigh, super glue isn't waterproof. You'd of had better luck with a strip of Scotch tape over the crack. (no kidding....it's a great "quick fix" if you're in a session and the crack leaks or opens).
User avatar
markv
Posts: 410
Joined: Tue Jun 26, 2001 6:00 pm
Please enter the next number in sequence: 1
Location: Lincoln Nebraska

Post by markv »

After cracking a few dozen feet of bamboo before figuring out that (most power tools)+ bamboo = cracks, I got pretty good at fixing them. There are a couple adhesives that work. There is a gel superglue that stays plastic and is waterproof or you can try a variety of silicone adhesives (just make sure it will bond wood not just tileceramics). Squirt your adhesive of choice in the crack, clamp it with the hose clamps, let it sit till the adhesive cures, bind with damp hemp fibre (looks cool on bamboo and is really strong) and remove clamps. If the crack doesn't go all the way through then just clamp and bind. Bamboo has a hard time in Nebraska due to the high humidity in the warm months and very cold dry winters. Find an area of the house that stays pretty consistant temp wise, half basement closet under the stairs for me, and keep the bamboo there when not playingbuilding with it. Feel free to email me for more details or fixing panpipebamboo

Mark V.
User avatar
Thomas-Hastay
Posts: 839
Joined: Tue Jun 26, 2001 6:00 pm
antispam: No
Please enter the next number in sequence: 8
Location: Between my Ears or in "Nord" East MN
Contact:

Post by Thomas-Hastay »

My 2 cents

I seems that you need to soak your dry bamboo in a solution of Almond or Sesame oil etc. and alchohol as a thinner. This will protect your bamboo from drying and also waterproof it from swelling. As the bamboo absorbs the oil,the cracks will close and most will vanish.

Remove the instrument from the oil bath and wipe the excess off. After drying for a while,apply a heated coat of beeswax to the outside to seal in the oil. Problem solved with non-toxic materials.

Keep a lump of beeswax in your case to seal up any cracks caused by heat build up during long sessions. As the instrument dries, the wax will be squeased out and no damge will occur. If you use a hard sealer,e.g.superglue, you may cause stress fractures as the instrument dries.

Thomas Hastay.

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Thomas-Hastay on 2001-08-29 21:37 ]</font>
User avatar
ErikT
Posts: 1590
Joined: Thu May 17, 2001 6:00 pm
antispam: No
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Contact:

Post by ErikT »

Thomas, do you see any problems with the alcohol harming the finish of a polished flute (ie. Olwell) ? I'd like to protect it, but I'd hate to trade off the finish in the process.

Erik
User avatar
Thomas-Hastay
Posts: 839
Joined: Tue Jun 26, 2001 6:00 pm
antispam: No
Please enter the next number in sequence: 8
Location: Between my Ears or in "Nord" East MN
Contact:

Post by Thomas-Hastay »

ErikT

Alchohol can damage some types of varnish if applied full strength. Alchohol,in this case,is used as a catalyst to help the organic oil soak into the bamboo. It evaporates during the drying process and only the oil is left behind.

If you are worried about damage you can thin down the oil with a small amount of water. Place a small cup of oil thinned with water in a pan of heated water. The heat will thin the oil and allow the water to be disolved in the oil better.

Apply with a small brush or cotton swabs. The drying process will take longer because of the water evaporation rate,but thats the price for peace of mind,right?
Post Reply