Olwell flute question

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In The Woods
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Olwell flute question

Post by In The Woods »

Hello, everybody.

Can someone tell me what the current delivery time and price is for an Olwell keyless flute?

Thanks very much.

Steve Mack
Ring the bells that still can ring.
Forget your perfect offering.
There is a crack in everything.
That's how the light get's in.

Leonard Cohen
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Il Friscaletto
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Post by Il Friscaletto »

I have one on order and am figuring on 10-12 months, give or take, for a keyless flute.
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johnkerr
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Re: Olwell flute question

Post by johnkerr »

In The Woods wrote:Can someone tell me what the current delivery time and price is for an Olwell keyless flute?
Patrick Olwell or someone in his shop surely could tell you that. Call the shop at 434-277-9215 or e-mail Patrick at patolwell at aol.com (after replacing 'at' with '@' and scrunching it all together, of course.)
norcalbob
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Post by norcalbob »

Here is the information about Patrick's flutes as of February, 2008. His current email is olwellflutes@gmail.com.


Patrick Olwell Handmade Flutes
P.O. Box 117 Nellysford, VA 22958
434-277-9215 * olwellflutes@gmail.com

Conical Bore Irish Wooden Flutes
The “Irish” flute has a conical wooden bore and is sometimes referred to as the “simple-system” flute. It retains the six open finger holes of the Renaissance and Baroque design, with keys added for half-steps and trills. Careful measurements of instruments by Prowse, and Rudall&Rose, Pratten and Clinton have contributed to the different flute designs I create. They are pitched at A=440.

Design
My flutes are available in three basic designs called Pratten, Nicholson, and Small. For convenience, we sometimes refer to them as Large, Medium, and Small, respectively. The sizes refer to the relative measurements of the bore, as well as the size and spacing of the fingerholes.

Pratten (Large) Based on various “Pratten” designs, this model has the largest bore and fingerholes. It can produce a loud, bright tone and enables the easiest half-holing and sliding of notes. This is the most popular design; it is excellent for traditional Irish music, especially at noisy sessions. My Pratten design has a slightly smaller bore than a “Boosey” Pratten and is a bit easier to play, being what traditional players refer to as “easy to fill.” While probably not suitable for players with very small hands, many people can adjust to this design with a little practice.
Nicholson (Medium) This model is my modification of the so-called “Nicholson” flute, developed around 1820, of which I find Rudall-Rose flutes to be the best examples. My model has slightly smaller, more closely spaced fingerholes. It is a good design for players with smaller hands, or those who are simply uncomfortable with the larger fingerholes. The tone is similar to the larger model, with just a little less volume.
Small (Small) Rudall-Rose made a very popular flute with smaller holes, the predecessor of the Nicholson flute, upon which this design is based. It has a different bore and smaller, closer spaced fingerholes than the Pratten and Nicholson designs. Though its sound is more subdued and lyrical, this model has plenty of volume for playing traditional music. This model is recommended for players with very small hands.

Tuning Slide Options The tuning slide is available in either sterling silver or nickel. The difference in sound between the two is very slight. Sterling silver may allow a bit more flexibility of tone, while nickel accentuates the brightness or crispness of the flute’s sound. A “French-style” tuning slide is also available (in sterling silver only) where the tubing does not project into the embouchure area at the same price as the regular sterling silver tuning slide.

Wood
My flutes are currently available in Blackwood, Rosewood, and Boxwood. The difference in sound and feel between the woods is slight but noticeable, especially to the player. A metal-tuning slide will minimize the differences in the woods somewhat. Occasionally I make a flute from Cocus, but this wood is almost extinct and very hard to locate for purchase. The following are general descriptions of the woods I use, and their major relevant qualities.

African Blackwood (Grenadilla) Blackwood is currently my favorite wood for making flutes. It has a full, bright, reedy tone and resists shrinking and expanding due to changing humidity, making it the most stable and durable of the woods I use. Blackwood takes on a beautiful finish, and it will darken to a solid black color over time, if not already black on completion.

Rosewood (Kingwood or Honduran Rosewood) Rosewood is also very stable, and may have a slightly more “woody” sound quality than Blackwood. I use Rosewood most often on 3 or 4-section keyless flutes with an all-wood headjoint. The color varies from medium purplish-red with visible grain, to dark brown-red. All rosewoods will darken with age.

Boxwood Boxwood is the most delicate of the woods I use. It is prone to shrinking and expanding due to humidity changes. More care is needed in maintaining and protecting a boxwood flute, but anyone who has played one knows that boxwood has its own rewards. It has a lovely, soft, buttery tone unlike the other woods.

Cocus Wood Cocus wood is a hard, brittle wood from the Caribbean, with a fantastic sound, and was also the most popular wood for flute making in the 19th Century. Unfortunately, today, this wood is very difficult to obtain in size and quality suitable for flute making. We sometimes have some available to work with but recommend blackwood. The tone is comparable, and ultimately, blackwood will be more durable.

Prices - May 2006
Keyless 3-Section, All Wood Flute (no tuning slide or silver rings)
Rosewood - $850
Blackwood - $950
Center Section made in 2 Pieces-- add $50.00

Keyless Flutes with Tuning Slide
Blackwood with Sterling silver trim and Nickel-lined head - $1450
Blackwood with Sterling Silver trim and Silver-lined head -$1550

Six-Key Flute with block mounted keys for D#, F, G#, B Flat and C
made from Select African Blackwood
Sterling silver keys and rings with nickel tube in headjoint - $3250
Sterling silver keys and rings with silver tube in headjoint - $3350

There is an additional charge for using boxwood of $100, and for Cocus wood, $400.

Carrying Pouches and Case
Heavy-duty, black cordura nylon, padded and zippered with 4 compartments - $45
“French-style” hard flute case (by Northwind cases) - $155

Ordering Information
The current waiting period for a keyless flute is about 1 year from receipt of deposit and approximately 6 years for keyed instruments. A deposit of 25% is required for keyless flutes (no deposit to be placed on the keyed flute wait list). When ordering, please include all contact information, including e-mail, and update as necessary. Communication via e-mail is the most efficient method in most cases. Please contact us to be placed on the keyed flute waiting list. Shipping, insurance, and packing fees are $40 for keyless flutes and $55 for keyed flutes. Virginia residents please add 5.0% sales tax.
Bob

Come to the edge/ It's too high/ Come to the edge/ We might fall/ Come to the edge/ And we came/ And he pushed/ And we flew!
Guillaume Apollinaire
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johnkerr
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Post by johnkerr »

norcalbob wrote:Here is the information about Patrick's flutes as of February, 2008. His current email is olwellflutes@gmail.com.
Oops. Sorry! I guess that's what I get for going from memory. I'm pretty sure the phone number is right, though - I looked it up on Brad Hurley's flute site. So if it's wrong, blame Brad. :->
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chas
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Post by chas »

Steve, I'd recommend making the drive up to Massey's Mill and try out Patrick's different models and talk to Patrick and Aaron and Kara, a wonderful group of people. It's probably not much more than an hour from Dillwyn (where my daughter will be spending Friday night while my wife and I have a date in Charlottesville; I'll be running the 10-Miler Saturday morning).
Charlie
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