sandingblock diam. for D-reed ?

[uilleannfinlander]

what size diam ( in mm. please) + material of sanding block you use, when making D-reeds?

[Brian Lee]

Wide or narrow bore? I tend to prefer a block of 2.75" (70mm) for most of my D reeds (wide bore). Although I also use smaller blocks on occasion: 2.50" (64mm) and 2.36" (60mm). I know some reed makers use blocks as small as 2.00" (51mm). I've also got a fellow reed maker here who has used a block that was 3.00+" (76mm+) in diameter for his D reeds and it seemed to work fairly well.

Just depends on what you want the bridle to do when you're done. Do you like to be able to close down your reeds, or open them up a bit? If you like to close them down a touch, then a smaller diameter block is called for. Opening them up, use a larger block. I feel that the best reeds I've done have been close to not really needing a bridle at all, and have played fairly well on their own with a good elevation. The bridle then just comes in for very fine tuning. Hope that helps you some.

[brianc]

And a Heineken beer bottle works well.

After the contents are removed, of course.

[Joseph E. Smith]

And a Heineken beer bottle works well.

After the contents are removed, of course.

Yes....yes....

[goldy]

I haven't decided whether I prefer 50mm or 64mm. I tend to go with 50mm mostly. The theory behind choosing a sanding block diameter is in how it affects the thickness of the slip, the aperature of the lips and the internal volume of the reed. A lot of reedmakers are with Brian Lee in choosing a diameter that creates a close to ideal lip opening once the reed has been scraped - this will lessen the likelyhood of deforming the lips by squeezing it shut with the bridle and increase longevity.

Considerations of smaller diameters:
- A small diameter means the bridle will have to close the reed, making E' a little flatter, but it is easier to get the bridle fitting snugly that way. However, a larger diameter requires lip opening, which will also allow for a snug fit and prevent the reed collapsing in those early days.
- If you are inserting the staple a long way into the reed, a small diameter is required as the deeper the insersion, the more the lips close.
- If your bridle is placed higher, a smaller diameter will give more internal volume to the reed (if placed immediately above the binding you won't get the result)
- A smaller diameter creates a thinner slip, which will need less sanding and will produce a sharper back D.

As for material of the block, some suggest PVC piping, but I've found it to be less than perfect in diameter and it will deform if you put it in a vice like Seth Gallager recommends. A wooden block would be better (some use a rolling pin). I use a can of engine degreaser (WD40) for my 64mm block and a 'Calvin Klein CK1' roll on deodorant for my 50mm block. Just look out for anything sturdy with a consistent diameter over its length. Try to think like MacGyver (assuming you know who I'm talking about).
Goldy

[brianc]

The beauty of a Heineken bottle, (after the obvious reason of it's contents) is that it comes with a handle at one end, which keeps the newly-created sanding block from slipping away.

[Brian Lee]

Considerations of smaller diameters:
- A small diameter means the bridle will have to close the reed, making E' a little flatter, but it is easier to get the bridle fitting snugly that way. However, a larger diameter requires lip opening, which will also allow for a snug fit and prevent the reed collapsing in those early days.

But this can sharpen the lower octave E (opening the lips I mean) and cause problems in the other direction too. Use best judgement when experimenting, and take note of what doesn't work, and your best guess as to why.

- If you are inserting the staple a long way into the reed, a small diameter is required as the deeper the insersion, the more the lips close.

Or at least you will need to gouge some sort of bed for the staple (Evertjan's site describes this well) to relieve some of the extra tension of a deeper insertion. (I feel so dirty saying that! )

- If your bridle is placed higher, a smaller diameter will give more internal volume to the reed (if placed immediately above the binding you won't get the result)

Quite right - again, if needed, you can gouge your own 'tone chamber' and increase the volume of a shallower block manually. Be careful not to over do it though.

- A smaller diameter creates a thinner slip, which will need less sanding and will produce a sharper back D.

I suppose a smaller diameter block would allow for slightly less sanding, but another consideration is the area of thinning. With a smaller radius block, the centerline of the reed will also be thinner, and this is the area you want to keep thick to help the second octave remain attainable and stable. Smaller is ok...to a point. Just don't overdo it. you'll know pretty quick if you do though.

[snoogie]

The beauty of a Heineken bottle, (after the obvious reason of it's contents) is that it comes with a handle at one end, which keeps the newly-created sanding block from slipping away.

And if it is ever lost or stolen, you can readily obtain more! -g