Question for those of you with several flutes
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theotherleadingbrand
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Question for those of you with several flutes
Just wondering how those of you who have several flutes or collect many flutes keep them maintained. If a flute is unplayed for a long time, does it have to be broken in again? How consistently does a flute have to be used to stay broken in? I'm also wondering if historical collections are treated in any special way to preserve them. This is just a point of curiousity for me since I only have one good flute and one not so good one. Anyone out there have a humidor full of flutes? Are there any mold issues with that?
I changed my mind. Then I found out the new one was smaller and weaker.
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Jon C.
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- Tell us something.: I restore 19th century flutes, specializing in Rudall & Rose, and early American flutes. I occasionally make new flutes. Been at it for about 15 years.
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toddyboy50
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Whistlin'Dixie
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My goodness, Eilam , a bit testy this morning are we?eilam wrote:ohh yah! a week has seven days
Jesus christ! you ass holes
I bought a small wooden trunk at WorldMarket, and keep my wooden flutes and whistles in it. I keep little plastic containers, with wet paper towels in them and holes punched in the tops, inside the wooden trunk.
The flutes I play the most, I actually keep in a (gulp) Rubbermaid container near my computer.
I go through my flutes and try to play each at least once a week ~ that's usually on a weekend. It's difficult. I have been trying to play one flute exclusively for awhile, to see how it goes. I look at them and oil if they seem dry, regardless of play time.
I've never had a mold problem.
So that's what I do, anyway.
M
Well, here I am playing the blackwood Olwell, and Man! The flute rocks! Quite a different beast than the Hammy, but gorgeous and easy! I'm falling in love again.....
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Tipple/fipple Flutist
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Wood care in general
Wood are subjected to moisture all the time, some flutes split, others don't.
The way the wood was dried is a variable, wood that is racked and dried for several years is better able to handle atmospheric fluctuations more readily than wood that has been quick kiln dried.
The consideration for flute care is to deal with moisture fluctuations and an occasional restorative oil treatment the won't build up over time in the bore or poison the player.
Moisture control is about constants wherever possible and control of moisture so that it doesn't crack the instrument when it is present.
Cracks are caused by the wood getting soaked and then drying out unevenly causing some areas of the woodgrain to shrink faster than others and causing a "split". The only sure way to control this is to allow wooden items to dry out as evenly as possible and retard the shrinking process so the wood has time to evenly dry. This calls for a moderate drying process, (not using hairdryers or placing your case on a radiator).
How can you prevent cracks:
Keep your flute in as constant a state as possible. Store it in the came container always, dry it the same way consistantly, slow down the drying process so all grains of wood have an opportunity to shrink evenly.
I believe one should swab out excess moisture with something that has no chance to score the bore, (silk and a plastic rod are recommended by many). Then the flute should be placed on it's end in a controlled humidity environment to dry, cork side up. If this option is not available, one should place the flute on it's side with minimal surface contact to trap moisture against the bottom of the barrell for as long as possible before storing. I believe the flute should be left assembled at this drying point as the tenon points a will accomidate each other as they shrink, if dissassembled quickly after a long session and dissmantled in the case, one joint way shrink muck more than it's mate. It's not a truly critical point, but it would be better if it dried in one piece to retain it's shape better.
When storing a flute it's original hard case (hopefully leather wrapped), is the best option. If you don't have a case I would recommend a leather storage case. Leather allows moisture to breathe, but at a slower that other materials pace. Plastic traps and makes air sour, a great place for oxygen starved bacterial and mold. It isn't a good long term flute storage option.
Some people deal with moisture by trying to block it with oil. This is a great idea, but one remember that one thin application is healthier for the wood than soaking the bore, (ever put on too much hand lotion?). Over oiling caused the thin walled flute to become, "drowned" and it loses its vibrancy, (the resonance caused by millions of air filled cells in the wood itself). Oils tend to build up too, causing change or loss of sound. I recommend tung oil for "hard cases", (flutes that are starved for moisture, applied in thin light coats over days so as not to build up), and almond oil for maintenance. Almond oil goes back thousands of years as the preservative of the "duduk", an ancient reeded wooden whistle. It is food safe also. It does not build up when properly aquired and applied. Stay away from any product containing active petroleum products, or waxes and silicones that will build up. Read your labels carefully, I once bought a beeswax labeled "organic" at the food store only to see later in fine print it had a petroleum drying agent in it.
So in short, buy a quality, properly dried wood instrument, oil a dry flute lightly using wood and people friendly products, dry a wet flute as best you can after use, store it consistantly in a controlled humidity environment that is breathable. Try not to subject your instrument to extremes without a good proper drying and the preparation of regular good maintenance.
Hope this helps a little....[/u]
The way the wood was dried is a variable, wood that is racked and dried for several years is better able to handle atmospheric fluctuations more readily than wood that has been quick kiln dried.
The consideration for flute care is to deal with moisture fluctuations and an occasional restorative oil treatment the won't build up over time in the bore or poison the player.
Moisture control is about constants wherever possible and control of moisture so that it doesn't crack the instrument when it is present.
Cracks are caused by the wood getting soaked and then drying out unevenly causing some areas of the woodgrain to shrink faster than others and causing a "split". The only sure way to control this is to allow wooden items to dry out as evenly as possible and retard the shrinking process so the wood has time to evenly dry. This calls for a moderate drying process, (not using hairdryers or placing your case on a radiator).
How can you prevent cracks:
Keep your flute in as constant a state as possible. Store it in the came container always, dry it the same way consistantly, slow down the drying process so all grains of wood have an opportunity to shrink evenly.
I believe one should swab out excess moisture with something that has no chance to score the bore, (silk and a plastic rod are recommended by many). Then the flute should be placed on it's end in a controlled humidity environment to dry, cork side up. If this option is not available, one should place the flute on it's side with minimal surface contact to trap moisture against the bottom of the barrell for as long as possible before storing. I believe the flute should be left assembled at this drying point as the tenon points a will accomidate each other as they shrink, if dissassembled quickly after a long session and dissmantled in the case, one joint way shrink muck more than it's mate. It's not a truly critical point, but it would be better if it dried in one piece to retain it's shape better.
When storing a flute it's original hard case (hopefully leather wrapped), is the best option. If you don't have a case I would recommend a leather storage case. Leather allows moisture to breathe, but at a slower that other materials pace. Plastic traps and makes air sour, a great place for oxygen starved bacterial and mold. It isn't a good long term flute storage option.
Some people deal with moisture by trying to block it with oil. This is a great idea, but one remember that one thin application is healthier for the wood than soaking the bore, (ever put on too much hand lotion?). Over oiling caused the thin walled flute to become, "drowned" and it loses its vibrancy, (the resonance caused by millions of air filled cells in the wood itself). Oils tend to build up too, causing change or loss of sound. I recommend tung oil for "hard cases", (flutes that are starved for moisture, applied in thin light coats over days so as not to build up), and almond oil for maintenance. Almond oil goes back thousands of years as the preservative of the "duduk", an ancient reeded wooden whistle. It is food safe also. It does not build up when properly aquired and applied. Stay away from any product containing active petroleum products, or waxes and silicones that will build up. Read your labels carefully, I once bought a beeswax labeled "organic" at the food store only to see later in fine print it had a petroleum drying agent in it.
So in short, buy a quality, properly dried wood instrument, oil a dry flute lightly using wood and people friendly products, dry a wet flute as best you can after use, store it consistantly in a controlled humidity environment that is breathable. Try not to subject your instrument to extremes without a good proper drying and the preparation of regular good maintenance.
Hope this helps a little....[/u]
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theotherleadingbrand
- Posts: 50
- Joined: Fri Mar 07, 2003 9:49 pm
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- Location: Under your bed.