Okay... so it really was the whistle, and not me? :)

Nyghtshayde · Post by **Nyghtshayde** » Fri Feb 07, 2003 8:56 am

Well, I found out that I am not completely hopeless! One of the problems I was having were the octaves.... that would be why I would be playing what -looked- right on paper but diddnt sound right at all.

I think a large part of it is also my old whistle... Im a little glad that the thing went missing on me, but this Oak definatly needs replacing asap. For now, I have a little saran wrapped around the mouthpeice (just a little bit) until I can replace the whistle, its not comfortable, but its keeping me from going insane, and I am not getting sick when I play it.

I have two questions ^^ Firstly, are there any inexpensive wooden whistles out there? Are they any good?
Secondly, why is it the tutorial sites I visit, always want me to learn a bloody jig or reel first? No nice slow airs, no mellow laments.... It just seems to be a trend.

rbm · Post by **rbm** » Fri Feb 07, 2003 9:01 am

try coating the mouthparts in superglue.
Richard.

make sure its dry before you try

[ This Message was edited by: rbm on 2003-02-07 10:03 ]

Martin Milner · Post by **Martin Milner** » Fri Feb 07, 2003 9:09 am

I have a lovely tutorial of slow airs, book & DC. Ireland's 110 best slow airs, by Waltons. Some tunes are played on whistle, some on flute, pipes or fiddle, but 80% of the tunes can be played on a whistle as written.

Or get Ireland's 110 best tinwhistle tunes by Waltons, which includes many slow pieces, and also jigs & reels.

http://www.hobgoblin-usa.com/local/bookfram.htm

Nyghtshayde · Post by **Nyghtshayde** » Fri Feb 07, 2003 9:31 am

Richard

Thanks! The glue is drying as I type this, hopefully it fixes the problem

Martin, Im hopping on over to peek, Thank you for the link!

rbm · Post by **rbm** » Fri Feb 07, 2003 9:36 am

On 2003-02-07 10:31, Nyghtshayde wrote:
Richard Thanks! The glue is drying as I type this, hopefully it fixes the problem

So is the glue on my G above low D, too many splinters

Richard.

[ This Message was edited by: rbm on 2003-02-07 10:36 ]

chas · Post by **chas** » Fri Feb 07, 2003 10:34 am

On 2003-02-07 09:56, Nyghtshayde wrote:

I have two questions ^^ Firstly, are there any inexpensive wooden whistles out there? Are they any good?

The least expensive wooden whistles out there are in the $30-50 range, and they're not very good. There are some really cheap bamboo whistles; I haven't played one in decades so I can't really comment on them.

OutOfBreath · Post by **OutOfBreath** » Fri Feb 07, 2003 11:13 am

On 2003-02-07 10:01, rbm wrote:
try coating the mouthparts in superglue.
Richard.

make sure its dry before you try

[ This Message was edited by: rbm on 2003-02-07 10:03 ]

Well, if you didn't wait for it to dry at least you'd get a lot of whistle practice...

[edited to add]

Seriously, though, I would think that anyone that had problems with the Oak fipples would also have problems with CA glues, even after they dry. I'd also think the glue would do a number on the plastic, for that matter. CA fumes are nasty stuff before the glue cures and I can smell the acrid odor even after the glue has set. CA also trashes most plastics, which shows up clearly if you try to glue clear or translucent plastic.

John

John

[ This Message was edited by: OutOfBreath on 2003-02-07 12:17 ]

Aodhan · Post by **Aodhan** » Fri Feb 07, 2003 11:42 am

I think a large part of it is also my old whistle... Im a little glad that the thing went missing on me, but this Oak definatly needs replacing asap. For now, I have a little saran wrapped around the mouthpeice (just a little bit) until I can replace the whistle, its not comfortable, but its keeping me from going insane, and I am not getting sick when I play it.

If the superglue doesn't work, you can try clear fingernail polish. You will occasionally have to reapply, but I use this on my belt buckles all the time (I'm allergic to nickel).

Aodhan

Tyghress · Post by **Tyghress** » Fri Feb 07, 2003 11:48 am

Personally, I don't understand how Oak, or whoever puts the Oaks out, gets away with this. Song of the Sea refused their shipment, and they may well not be selling Oaks anymore.

There is obviously something going on with their mouthpieces, and I want nothing to do with anything that causes this sort of reaction. Shay, I understand that you want a better whistle to play, and that cost is a concern, but first chance you get, I'll give you a whistle that doesn't do weird chemical things to your mouth.

Another player who's even "greener" than I am refuses to play PVC, He did a quick run on a Dixon but refuses to consider one for an evening's play.

If I were sensitive to wood the way some people are, I'd give them up too.

As to cheap wood, the cheapest are the Coopermans, and they are pretty wretched IMHO. Next are the Adler's (I think) that Ralph Sweet retunes, and they're pretty nice sounding. I think The Whistle Shop sells them. Or Lark in the Morning.

Then you start climbing in price.

kevin m. · Post by **kevin m.** » Fri Feb 07, 2003 1:19 pm

Martin has given you some good advice there-I have both book/c.d. sets,and think that they are very good.Another good set is Geraldine Cotter's Traditional Irish Tinwhistle Tutor.A c.d. of 100 tunes featured in the book is available,covering jigs,reels,polkas and some SLOW AIRS!

Ridseard · Post by **Ridseard** » Fri Feb 07, 2003 2:15 pm

There's a nice selection of slower tunes (airs, laments, etc.) at http://www.tinwhistler.com/music/index.asp

Caru · Post by **Caru** » Sat Feb 08, 2003 7:07 pm

Some of the bamboo cheapies aren't too bad. You've got to try a whole bunch (many are cracked, splintering, or have leaks), but often you can find a good one in a lot. I've got one in B that I got for a dollar at a folk fair -- it's actually one of my favorites to play, has a nice mellow sound, and is decently in tune.