WTT: tapered bores in wood finger tubes

Tony · Post by **Tony** » Fri Dec 27, 2002 8:30 am

Did you catch all that tyghress?

aderyn_du · Post by **aderyn_du** » Fri Dec 27, 2002 9:13 am

Tyghress, it is rather heady stuff, isn't it?

Andrea ~*~

dereck · Post by **dereck** » Fri Dec 27, 2002 11:49 am

here's some historic futes.
to give you a beter idea of how thay were made
http://www.music.ed.ac.uk/euchmi/uwl.html#Woodwind

Tyghress · Post by **Tyghress** » Fri Dec 27, 2002 1:59 pm

... Laser boring tool ... steel stepped drill ...hardened steel tapered reamer

metal lathe...with a steady rest at the flying end...bees wax and a light-weight oil to make the wood vs. rest friction tolerable...taper attachment for your lathe...boring bar ...taper attachment not capable of feeding 15"...It'll get a bit jumpy once your bar get's fully extended

after initial reaming. Recheck the bore, possibly ream again if the wood 'moved' from the first pass

fantastic gundrill ...This thingie has a carbide tip...air channel down the middle, with an adaptor fitting ...ball bearing steadyrest...

tapered or belled reamer...using 5/16" or 3/8" round mild steel rod for the shaft, and HSS for the blades...first anneal it by heating and allowing to cool slowly...Flux the channels ...Set the blades in the channels and bind with iron wire, being careful to keep the blades seated at 90 deg to the perpendicular tangent...insulating refractory brick...quench the assembly in oil...grind and lap the cutting edges... feathering disc ... progressively finer sandpaper cones over the rod and spin it inside the bore...Be careful not to get it jammed

Guys, I don't think I'm supposed to be reading stuff like this at work! (fanning my fevered brow)

ErikT · Post by **ErikT** » Fri Dec 27, 2002 2:32 pm

T, it's Ok to READ it, just not Ok to DO it.

Elkcreek · Post by **Elkcreek** » Fri Dec 27, 2002 5:44 pm

The following is a reply and thank you to Serpent for his advice. I just couldn't resist wording it this way after Tyghress' comments.

Serpent,
I caught what you were saying in your first post. It wouldn't be the first time I laid a hot rod across the face of the ol' Hay-Budden and applied the cross pien.
I used to have a big Johnson until an Amishman got his hands on it and wouldn't let go. It's in Indiana now!
I've stacked more than a few soft firebrick in my time too. Layin' yer black iron pipe makes for good burners.
I agree that electric is not the way to go when you can make it a quickie with gas.
One question I have is this: Do you keep your quenching pan aligned to magnetic north so when you dip yer rod it doesn't warp?
I think that I'll just wrap my tapered rod with sand paper and stick in the stepped hole and see what happens after a few rotations.
Thanks for the advice, Serpent.
John

Zubivka · Post by **Zubivka** » Fri Dec 27, 2002 7:25 pm

(OT*) OK, I won't tell you of the Indonesian trick to bore 4-5 ft long one-piece wind music pipes without machinery or electricity, unless you ask me : it's real low (?) tech.**

*OT because the trick does mostly straight bores. It would take some high-tech elaboration from this to make it a taper driller...

** No, it's not termites...

brewerpaul · Post by **brewerpaul** » Sat Dec 28, 2002 6:17 am

On 2002-12-27 08:11, Tony wrote:
Paul, what are your steps?
Drilling first to find center then turining the 1x1 ? or turning the 1x1 and boring it after?

I first mark the diagonals on the ends of the 1x1 to roughly find the centers. Then I turn the square into what my wife calls a "stick"-- an approximately 1" diameter dowel. This gets cut into the 2 halves of the whistle, and then the hole is bored ( this in itself takes a number of very precise steps).

Tyghress · Post by **Tyghress** » Sat Dec 28, 2002 10:17 am

John. . .happily I'm at home now. . .I can read stuff like that and not worry that someone (other than Tyghre who I hope DOES read stuff like this) is looking over my shoulder.

Zoob, I'm all ears (and whiskers and a tail, but lets not get picky). How do they bore their low tech, non-termitic holes?

Tony · Post by **Tony** » Sat Dec 28, 2002 10:26 am

termitic... sounds like a word found in an insurance policy.

Zoob, is a small sharp stone driven into the end of a bamboo shoot considered machinery?

serpent · Post by **serpent** » Sat Dec 28, 2002 11:19 am

A tapered reamer turned directly by hand is not a machine - it is a tool. Turned with any sort of movable mechanical aid, (e.g. lever, gear, friction drive, wind or water, gasoline, diesel or electric motor, etc., does not apply to a fixed aid such as a tee handle), makes the entire apparatus a machine belonging to the class "machinery".
... any questions?

serpent (in the garden, to some...)

Zubivka · Post by **Zubivka** » Sat Dec 28, 2002 12:18 pm

The indonesian bit. And yeah, I guess you could call it a "bit".

A sort of a metal dart. The front end is pointy, with honed faces, a bit like a crossbow's projectile. The rear end bears,er, how you call these little wing things on darts ? Rudders ? These are twisted, like on a rocket, so the "missile" gets a spin with motion.
So you take your wood rod, sort of pre-drilled throughout with a small hole; this is done anyway you want; can be a bow-string rotator and a hard long tool if you want to keep it low-tech.
Now you put the metal "dart" at one end of you pre-drilled tube, with the pointed head facing to the opposite.
All this is sunk in a fast water stream : basically, a creek. Water gets around the dart, spins it and pushes it at the same time inside the wood.
A few days later, voilà : perfect cold (and cooled) machining at extremely low speed. The strange thing is it's straight!

Serp' -- this gets in which class : tool, machinery, or erosion ?

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Zubivka on 2002-12-28 13:21 ]</font>

Daniel_Bingamon · Post by **Daniel_Bingamon** » Sat Dec 28, 2002 11:30 pm

I've seen Dave Copley's tapered reamers, he makes it look so easy. They're not that complicated. A strip of steel, cut the tapered angle with a metal cutting bandsaw and sharpen.
You could go to any local machine shop and have it made - doesn't cost much.
This really depends on if you're going into production with it though.

Tony · Post by **Tony** » Sun Dec 29, 2002 7:27 am

Serp... you know the 'machinery' thing was just a joke... right?

serpent · Post by **serpent** » Sun Dec 29, 2002 10:39 am

On 2002-12-29 08:27, Tony wrote:
Serp... you know the 'machinery' thing was just a joke... right?

Tony, one thing I never joke about is machinery! I have far too great a reverence for the Holiness of the Drill Press, (ar, ar, get it? Knee slapper that!) the venerated Smoothness of the End Mill, to ever make light of such mysteries! :roll:
ROFLMAO, tears streaming...

Zoob, I think what you've described is one of the Deeper Mysteries. I must retire to my shop with a Guiness or four, to meditate...

serp