Chanter by Patrick Henelly for sale

uilleannfinlander · Post by **uilleannfinlander** » Tue Mar 04, 2008 6:26 am

http://www.tradauction.com/Concert-D-Ui ... on_details

ferris54 · Post by **ferris54** » Sun Mar 09, 2008 3:07 pm

I `ve just won this on the auction. Has anyone else experience with this particular maker??

rorybbellows · Post by **rorybbellows** » Sun Mar 09, 2008 3:14 pm

It looks like a nice chanter and if it plays well ,you got a real bargin at only £352 .I thought it would have gone for more.

RORY

fel bautista · Post by **fel bautista** » Mon Mar 10, 2008 11:07 pm

Patrick Hennelly was one of the last American pipe makers in the 50s/60s. Pat Sky has a picture of his "sky scraper" set.

ferris54 · Post by **ferris54** » Tue Mar 11, 2008 1:26 pm

Thanks

do you have a link to this picture as i can`t find it

fel bautista · Post by **fel bautista** » Tue Mar 11, 2008 7:15 pm

It in his uilleann pipe tutor. Maybe you can send a message to Pat. He checks in here every so often

ferris54 · Post by **ferris54** » Mon Mar 17, 2008 3:43 pm

Chanter arrived and looked ok. Has a reed in it which plays the first octave in tune but from top d up its flat all the way. How do i sharpen the upper octave in comparison to the lower or do i need a new reed?

MichaelLoos · Post by **MichaelLoos** » Mon Mar 17, 2008 4:17 pm

Flattening the lower octave is much easier than sharpening the upper one - just insert a rush into the chanter, all the way up. Many old chanters were designed to work best with a rush. The flat upper octave can mean that the reed staple is too narrow although there are more possible reasons for that, you should have a reed maker have a look at it. Another possibility might be that many of the old american reed makers inverted the staple (narrow end in the chanter) but I have no experiences at all what happens if you use a staple the "normal" way in a chanter that is possibly designed for an inverted staple.

ferris54 · Post by **ferris54** » Tue Mar 18, 2008 3:50 pm

Thanks for the advice. I`ve managed to get it in very good tune now, mainly nby closing the bridle and removing the wax that was filling half of the g hole. The only note that is a bit off now is the c nat, but this can be brought in with pressure or using the c key. I also put a new pad of leather on the stop key as this was leaking a bit, and have given the chanter a once over with the brasso. I`m very pleased with it and it goes nicely with my seth gallagher set.
Here are some pics

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No E · Post by **No E** » Wed Mar 19, 2008 4:19 pm

Oh noooo-- don't use Brasso! it's got ammonia in it and isn't good for the pipes at all. You're better off with Cape Cod polishing cloths. If you must use a polish, Flitz is much better than Brasso.

Congrats on the new chanter,

No E

vanfleet · Post by **vanfleet** » Thu Mar 20, 2008 7:21 am

The only note that is a bit off now is the c nat, but this can be brought in with pressure or using the c key.

Check the many threads and discussions on this board concerning the c natural. You might try an alternate fingering to see if this chanter works better with, say, lifting the right hand index finger and half-holing with the left hand index finger . . . you should be able to produce a spot on c natural without using the key.

JVF

ausdag · Post by **ausdag** » Fri Mar 21, 2008 3:13 am

No E wrote:Oh noooo-- don't use Brasso! it's got ammonia in it and isn't good for the pipes at all. You're better off with Cape Cod polishing cloths. If you must use a polish, Flitz is much better than Brasso.

Congrats on the new chanter,

No E

Sorry to get a bit off topic, but I'm interested - why not Brasso? How does ammonia affect pipes? I ask because I've been using Brasso on my drones for the past 16 years with (so far) no ill effects. Of course, by that I mean I've polished them about 7 or 8 times in that period.

Cheers,

DavidG