for sake of expediency, i did not describe any sort of trial and error process, and trusted that they would adjust if things did not work.Rob Sharer wrote:I think this is the wrong approach. I think you should identify how you want the headjoint to be positioned against your lips, then adjust the body of the flute to suit your hands. If it so happens that the headjoint ends up straight in line, or rolled out, so be it. There is no right way, so statements predicting failure based on one position or another are specious. I, for one, pretty much line everything up straight, and somehow I manage to get the odd squeak out of my flute all the same. Cheers,daiv wrote:
make sure your headjoint is rolled in. that is a biggy. many silver flutists line up straight, or roll out. you should roll in for your wooden flute. a good rule of thumb is that the further embouchure edge should be lined up with the middle of the finger holes. not only do i line up my wooden flute this way, but my silver one as well. if you dont roll in your headjoint, you will never be able to blow into the flute.
Rob
i never predicted failure about headjoint angle, but only a rule of thumb. i hinted at difficulty if you dont cover the embouchure hole, which as james galway showed, can be done at any angle. however, wooden flutes were originally designed to be rolled in a certain amount. by analzying models made for and by nicholson, the amount that was marked on the flutes to be rolled in as far as i describe.
personally, i do not look at how my headjoint is set up. i adjust it by feel, and by using my hands. sometimes it is heavily rolled in, and sometimes it is straight.
my headjoint angle and embouchure change daily, depending on my mood, the sound i am going for, and the room i am in, all of which fluctuate widely.