Could somebody be so kind please as to post a link (links) to buy those little mac valves?
Thanks,
Hans
little mac
- Hans-Joerg
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- MichaelLoos
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- Ed Harrison
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Hello Hans
I got mine from
http://www.songsea.com/pipesupp.htm#BagpipeParts
I am sure there others closer to you .
here's one in the UK:
http://www.licensetokilt.com/Products-B ... plies.html
I have Rooge set and made an adapter because the little mac was larger in diameter than the Rogge blowpipe stock inside diameter. I used plumbing parts from a home improvement store (Lowes here in US). Only took a few mintunes to build. But I always wanted to make an adaptor from wood or delrin.
Hope this is of some help.
..... Ed
I got mine from
http://www.songsea.com/pipesupp.htm#BagpipeParts
I am sure there others closer to you .
here's one in the UK:
http://www.licensetokilt.com/Products-B ... plies.html
I have Rooge set and made an adapter because the little mac was larger in diameter than the Rogge blowpipe stock inside diameter. I used plumbing parts from a home improvement store (Lowes here in US). Only took a few mintunes to build. But I always wanted to make an adaptor from wood or delrin.
Hope this is of some help.
..... Ed
- billh
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Hi Gary, congrats...
Little Mac valves have been discussed here before. They're not without downside - for one thing, they're designed for the Highland and other mouth-blown pipes, where the usual state of affairs is a large pressure difference across the valve. On the other hand, for the UP the usual state of affairs is for there to be a small pressure difference - i.e you want the valve to be very efficient across a small pressure difference. Some folks seemed to feel that this was an issue with the Little Mac.
The other problem is that the regular fitting on the Little Mac is (so I am told) a tapered plastic fitting. This is apt to stress and eventually spiit your blowpipe even if it fits (which, often, it does not). Personally I would not use one without having a new blowpipe and blowpipe stock made for the set, made to fit the tapered plug without undue strain.
Best regards,
Bill
Little Mac valves have been discussed here before. They're not without downside - for one thing, they're designed for the Highland and other mouth-blown pipes, where the usual state of affairs is a large pressure difference across the valve. On the other hand, for the UP the usual state of affairs is for there to be a small pressure difference - i.e you want the valve to be very efficient across a small pressure difference. Some folks seemed to feel that this was an issue with the Little Mac.
The other problem is that the regular fitting on the Little Mac is (so I am told) a tapered plastic fitting. This is apt to stress and eventually spiit your blowpipe even if it fits (which, often, it does not). Personally I would not use one without having a new blowpipe and blowpipe stock made for the set, made to fit the tapered plug without undue strain.
Best regards,
Bill
- Ed Harrison
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Hello All
I have not had any problems with the little mac. I do remember one guy at Elkins had the valve at the end of his blow tube so it was positioned almost in the bag so he did get a click sometimes from the valve closing. Not to mention that if it came lose it would fall into the bag and thats the end of that tune.
I didn't realize it at the time I made my adapter, the valve is moved further away from the bag so there no echo in the bag from the valve opening and closing. It also prevents the little mac from falling into the bag.
At one time I put at adapter at the bellows exit, so there was about 6-8 inches of tubing after the adapter. I thought why can't the valve be in the bellows so that was what I was trying to do. I guess thats what I get for starting to think, but it is still a good question?
Gary, I'll make a drawing for you or send to you and extra adapter that I made. I'm sure there are some improvements that you can make.
Thanks..... Ed
I have not had any problems with the little mac. I do remember one guy at Elkins had the valve at the end of his blow tube so it was positioned almost in the bag so he did get a click sometimes from the valve closing. Not to mention that if it came lose it would fall into the bag and thats the end of that tune.
I didn't realize it at the time I made my adapter, the valve is moved further away from the bag so there no echo in the bag from the valve opening and closing. It also prevents the little mac from falling into the bag.
At one time I put at adapter at the bellows exit, so there was about 6-8 inches of tubing after the adapter. I thought why can't the valve be in the bellows so that was what I was trying to do. I guess thats what I get for starting to think, but it is still a good question?
Gary, I'll make a drawing for you or send to you and extra adapter that I made. I'm sure there are some improvements that you can make.
Thanks..... Ed
- Ed Harrison
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I think you have done a excellent job on this valve, Jim. Mine is some what crude but here it is:
At top of the photo are the two barb splicers and 3" black pvc pipe.
Just below that is the little mac inserted in one of the bards and the flex hose attached to go top the bellows.
I start with two- nylon hose barb splicer 5/8 x 5/8" (they do come in different sizes) part # A-480(Lowes)
one- 3/4"black pvc pipe that was about 8 feet long and I needed about 3 inches of it. It was soft and used a pvc knife to cut. The black pipe is made by "Silver Line Sil-O-Flex PE 3408 Bar code # 717141
a. I put the little mac in one of the barb splicers. A tight fit-teflon tape.
b. put that barb splicer in the #3 inch black pipe using sticky tape/dental floss/waxed black artificial sinew for a tight fit but one that I could remove it as needed.
c. Took the other bard splicer and filed it down to fit the blow pipe stock in the bag. Again using dental floss for a tight fit.
d. Took that barb splicer and put it in the other end of the 3 inch black
pipe. Used a very tight fit(tape/dental floss) and later glued it in place.
At top of the photo are the two barb splicers and 3" black pvc pipe.
Just below that is the little mac inserted in one of the bards and the flex hose attached to go top the bellows.
I start with two- nylon hose barb splicer 5/8 x 5/8" (they do come in different sizes) part # A-480(Lowes)
one- 3/4"black pvc pipe that was about 8 feet long and I needed about 3 inches of it. It was soft and used a pvc knife to cut. The black pipe is made by "Silver Line Sil-O-Flex PE 3408 Bar code # 717141
a. I put the little mac in one of the barb splicers. A tight fit-teflon tape.
b. put that barb splicer in the #3 inch black pipe using sticky tape/dental floss/waxed black artificial sinew for a tight fit but one that I could remove it as needed.
c. Took the other bard splicer and filed it down to fit the blow pipe stock in the bag. Again using dental floss for a tight fit.
d. Took that barb splicer and put it in the other end of the 3 inch black
pipe. Used a very tight fit(tape/dental floss) and later glued it in place.
- snoogie
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Hi Ed, as we discussed I've roughed up a crude prototype out of poplar and will put it in the mail tomorrow. Once we have the design right, I'll make a permanent one out of Delrin or a nicer wood.
The 'creation' process can be seen here.
Go to the Little Mac Valve album.
I'm open to constructive suggestions on how to improve the design.
Regards,
Gary
The 'creation' process can be seen here.
Go to the Little Mac Valve album.
I'm open to constructive suggestions on how to improve the design.
Regards,
Gary
- Ed Harrison
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