OK, I may have a chance to take a beginning bodhran class in January for free. Just a little something to do with the time between when I get out of work and when the advanced tin whistle class starts. Mind you I am still taking the advanced beginner tin whistle class with Bill Ochs as well and am saving up for a nice wooden flute from one of the top makers (Still deciding which) Anyway, my question is: Does anyone know of a decent beginner's bodhran that is under $70 or so? I don't need a pro model or anything like thzt, just something to practice on that will be in tune and won't fall apart after a year. I did a search here and didn't find too many postings. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
OT: Beginner Bodhran?
-
avanutria
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Haven't even met the teacher yet. I have to wait to see if the schedule of classes is the same at the Irish Arts Center for the spring as it was for the fall (I think it will be). If that's the case, the Introduction to Bodhran class will be at 6PM and the advanced beginners tin whistle class will be at 7PM. The way the Irish Arts Center works is that if you pay the $50 registration fee for the semester, you can take as many classes as you want so since I will be paying for the whistle class anyway, I can take the bodhran class for free. It's a sweet deal.
Good luck with your bodhran playing.
-Jim
Good luck with your bodhran playing.
-Jim
Hi Jim
Please don't buy a cheap bodhran, you will regret it. Good starting bodhrans can be found everywhere. But try these sites:
Cooperman bodhrans:
http://www.cooperman.com/bodhrans.htm
Bucks Music: Bodhrans
http://www.bucksmusic.com/framed.asp?url=products.htm
An 18 inch bodhran is standard, but a 16" will play just as well and will be a little cheaper.
If in doubt show up without a bodhran at the class and talk with your teacher and classmates, they might know of a good local source for you.
MarkB
Please don't buy a cheap bodhran, you will regret it. Good starting bodhrans can be found everywhere. But try these sites:
Cooperman bodhrans:
http://www.cooperman.com/bodhrans.htm
Bucks Music: Bodhrans
http://www.bucksmusic.com/framed.asp?url=products.htm
An 18 inch bodhran is standard, but a 16" will play just as well and will be a little cheaper.
If in doubt show up without a bodhran at the class and talk with your teacher and classmates, they might know of a good local source for you.
MarkB
Everybody has a photographic memory. Some just don't have film.
Well, I would love to throw $300 at this but it's just not going to happen. I'm on a very tight budget for this since it's sort of an aside and I really can't go too crazy on the money. Any hints on what not to get? What is a reasonable price to pay for a non-tunable? I figured that a lot of people here play these things so there must be some good info around here somewhere 
I don't believe anyone starts out with a $300 bodhran so there must be some recommendations for what a beginner with no aspiritions of being a pro should start with. If everyone tells me I can't get a decent one for under $125 then that's where this is going to go but obviously the less I have to spend to get started, the better for this particular venture. If I decide to get heavy into it at some later date, then I will think about moving up to a higher end tunable.
Thanks all,
-Jim
I don't believe anyone starts out with a $300 bodhran so there must be some recommendations for what a beginner with no aspiritions of being a pro should start with. If everyone tells me I can't get a decent one for under $125 then that's where this is going to go but obviously the less I have to spend to get started, the better for this particular venture. If I decide to get heavy into it at some later date, then I will think about moving up to a higher end tunable. Thanks all,
-Jim
Hi Mark, you must have been posting when I posted.On 2002-11-19 15:22, MarkB wrote:
Hi Jim
Please don't buy a cheap bodhran, you will regret it. Good starting bodhrans can be found everywhere. But try these sites:
Cooperman bodhrans:
http://www.cooperman.com/bodhrans.htm
Bucks Music: Bodhrans
http://www.bucksmusic.com/framed.asp?url=products.htm
An 18 inch bodhran is standard, but a 16" will play just as well and will be a little cheaper.
If in doubt show up without a bodhran at the class and talk with your teacher and classmates, they might know of a good local source for you.
MarkB
let me take a look through the links and get an idea of what kind of funds I would be looking at. Thanks,
-Jim
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LeeMarsh
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Jim,
This was what I got for my first Bodhran. It was goatskin, 18 inches and had a cross bar on the back that I could get my hand under.
But it was also cheap, $40. Here's the link to <a href=http://www.apollosaxes.com/18inbodhran.html>Cheap 18" goatskin</a>
I had played a number of bodhrans at an intro to bodhran class. That way I knew I wanted Goatskin and not synthetic and I knew I wanted 18-19 inchs. I figured for 40 bucks, this cheap one would do until I found out if I wanted to stick with it. I later bought a Kerns 18 in on ebay which was nicer, I picked it up for about 80 bucks. I'd still like to get a nice $200-$300 model 18" tunable with thick goatskin; but the Kearns will do for now.
BTW, I sold my beginning Bodhran for I think around 30 bucks to someone on this board. they were delighted with it. I had figured if I didn't sell here, I'd find someone that wanted to experiment with one. My initial experiment then cost me about 10 bucks ($40 new - $30 sold = 10 cost of trial) plus shipping. $10 is less that dinner for two at McDonalds.
Hope this helps you to ...
_________________
Enjoy Your Music,<br><br><b>Lee Marsh</b><br>
<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: LeeMarsh on 2002-11-19 16:05 ]</font>
This was what I got for my first Bodhran. It was goatskin, 18 inches and had a cross bar on the back that I could get my hand under.
But it was also cheap, $40. Here's the link to <a href=http://www.apollosaxes.com/18inbodhran.html>Cheap 18" goatskin</a>
I had played a number of bodhrans at an intro to bodhran class. That way I knew I wanted Goatskin and not synthetic and I knew I wanted 18-19 inchs. I figured for 40 bucks, this cheap one would do until I found out if I wanted to stick with it. I later bought a Kerns 18 in on ebay which was nicer, I picked it up for about 80 bucks. I'd still like to get a nice $200-$300 model 18" tunable with thick goatskin; but the Kearns will do for now.
BTW, I sold my beginning Bodhran for I think around 30 bucks to someone on this board. they were delighted with it. I had figured if I didn't sell here, I'd find someone that wanted to experiment with one. My initial experiment then cost me about 10 bucks ($40 new - $30 sold = 10 cost of trial) plus shipping. $10 is less that dinner for two at McDonalds.
Hope this helps you to ...
_________________
Enjoy Your Music,<br><br><b>Lee Marsh</b><br><font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: LeeMarsh on 2002-11-19 16:05 ]</font>
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ChrisLaughlin
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This is tough. My experience has been that cheap bodhrans are almost unplayable.
Someone bought me a Malachi Kearns drum a couple years ago, which was supposed to be a decent drum, but was really a piece of (*#&(% and I just thoroughly gave up on it after a couple of weeks because it sounded so bad. Those cheap drums have this inherent scratchy, dry sound to them that is just painful on the ears.
A couple of months ago I got a bodhran by Rob Forkner (www.metloef.com) - a 12x6 with kangaroo skin - and I've been off like a rocket ever since. Having a good drum has made all the difference!
Now I completely understand that not all of us can spend what he asks for his drums (and probably none of us can spend that much very often), but I really do think it would be worth it to save up for a while to get a good instrument, otherwise you'll either give up in dismay or pay more money 6 months from now to get a decent instrument, having wasted your original money.
My recommendations for top notch drums are those by Norbert Eckerman (available through Colin and Brigitte Goldie at http://www.overton.co.uk), Seamus O'Kane (available through himself at his website http://www.tradcentre.com/seamus/ ) and Rob Forkner at Metloef Bodhrans (www.metloef.com).
If you want to spend a bit less on a non-tunable, try Brendan White, who sells his non-tunable model for US$90 (www.bodhran.nl).
If you're really stuck buying a cheap instrument, there are some ways you can make it play better, as as originally posted by Alan Collinson , copied over from the Yahoo Bodhran Discussion List (http://www.bodhranii.org.uk/) :
"Dear all
I have noted the conversations about the quality and professionalism of
various drums. In reality the drum used isn't all that important. I've
heard £25 drums prepared and played to sound as though they were £400 drums.
We all buy the drums we can afford or want to buy. If we are starting out
we buy a cheap drum just to see if we like it. I think that 90% of all the
drums bought end up as wall decorations rather than musical instruments.
However, those who find that they have a yearning to be a drummer either for
their own pleasure or that of others need not be held back in any way by the
drum they possess. I began to learn on the cheapest drum I could find, and
yet, despite its humble origins, it remains one of the most beautiful toned
drums I have ever owned.
For those who might be interested, this is how I do it.
The main problem with most economy drums is that they have a tinny sound to
them, and when played they make a horrible scratching noise when struck.
Most beginners blame themselves immediately, whereas in effect, most of the
problem is the drum, not the player.
The tinny-ness can be overcome to a degree by dampening the skin slightly,
but this is only a temporary measure, and the drum soon returns to its
tinkly self as soon as it dries out again.
All professional drums have a smooth waxy feel to them and this is what the
rest of us should be aiming to play on. If we can't afford drums, lovingly
crafted by artisans, skins tanned and supple, frames scalloped and carved,
and consequently costing hundreds of pounds, then we must make the best with
what we have.
When buying an economy drum, wherever possible buy the smoothest skin on
offer, but whatever the state of the skin, any residual roughness can be
alleviated by rubbing down with the finest grade wet and dry sandpaper (the
black stuff). Spit is a good lubricant but those of a more delicate
disposition can use a lightly moistened cloth. Don't be afraid to rub hard.
I usually have some 20 or 30 drums on the go at any one time and have found
it impossible to rub through the skin. Bit by bit the skin will go
beautifully smooth, and will begin to have a little of that elusive waxyness
we are aiming for. Sadly, those who have bought ornamental drums with a
pattern on the surface may either have to sacrifice the pattern or sand
around it. The screen printing is often quite shiny and smooth anyway so
this shouldn't be a problem. As an aside, I don't know of any professional
who plays a drum with a pattern on it.
Having got the skin smooth, the next objective is to oil it. The reason for
this is two-fold. Firstly to make the skin less susceptible to moisture and
secondly to improve its playing performance.
The oil of my choice is HOOF OIL. This is a rather smelly vegetable oil
which stops horse getting cracked or diseased hooves. It works wonders for
drums too. Despite what the text books say I ladle this on with gay
abandon. (Am I allowed to say that these days?) Placing the drum on a flat
surface, pour it onto the outer surface. Rub it in with your fingers and
then leave it to stand for half a day. Try not to let it run down the side
of the drum if you can. It won't hurt the drum in any way, but if you have
velvet or cloth binding to cover the pins, it may stain. But what the hell,
we want a drum that will sound good, not a pretty object to put on the wall.
When it has had a chance to really soak into the skin, wipe off the excess
and turn the drum over. Forget whatever you have read in drumming lore, and
pour copious amount of hoof oil inside the drum. Again rub it in with your
fingers, only this time try to force it into the very fibres of the skin.
By now some of the skin may be becoming transparent, but don't worry. Again
take no notice of those who say you shouldn't by a drum you can see through,
the end justifies the means in this case. Anyway, any transparency will
disappear again in time. After a few hours, wipe off the excess and you
will be the proud owner of a large brown smelly piece of skin and wood, a
stained carpet, fish wives hands and a fumigated kitchen. But above all you
will have a drum that sounds a hundred pounds more valuable than the price
you paid for it.
I have done this to Jim Byrne drums, Waltons and all the economy imports I
can find and I have never had cause to regret my actions. I also use it on
my professional drums too, but don't tell anyone.
Happy smooth-waxy-drumming to you all
Alan Collinson
PS Hoof oil is marketed in the UK by Car and Day and Martin of Lancaster
01524 381821. Make sure you get the oil, there is a paste too but that
isn't as good. Neatsfoot oil will do too but its synthetic so I don't like
to use it. However if you want to keep your drum in a pristine white
condition then use Neatsfoot by all means. Ordinary Dubbin or saddle soap
will work too. "
Hope that helps,
Chris
Someone bought me a Malachi Kearns drum a couple years ago, which was supposed to be a decent drum, but was really a piece of (*#&(% and I just thoroughly gave up on it after a couple of weeks because it sounded so bad. Those cheap drums have this inherent scratchy, dry sound to them that is just painful on the ears.
A couple of months ago I got a bodhran by Rob Forkner (www.metloef.com) - a 12x6 with kangaroo skin - and I've been off like a rocket ever since. Having a good drum has made all the difference!
Now I completely understand that not all of us can spend what he asks for his drums (and probably none of us can spend that much very often), but I really do think it would be worth it to save up for a while to get a good instrument, otherwise you'll either give up in dismay or pay more money 6 months from now to get a decent instrument, having wasted your original money.
My recommendations for top notch drums are those by Norbert Eckerman (available through Colin and Brigitte Goldie at http://www.overton.co.uk), Seamus O'Kane (available through himself at his website http://www.tradcentre.com/seamus/ ) and Rob Forkner at Metloef Bodhrans (www.metloef.com).
If you want to spend a bit less on a non-tunable, try Brendan White, who sells his non-tunable model for US$90 (www.bodhran.nl).
If you're really stuck buying a cheap instrument, there are some ways you can make it play better, as as originally posted by Alan Collinson , copied over from the Yahoo Bodhran Discussion List (http://www.bodhranii.org.uk/) :
"Dear all
I have noted the conversations about the quality and professionalism of
various drums. In reality the drum used isn't all that important. I've
heard £25 drums prepared and played to sound as though they were £400 drums.
We all buy the drums we can afford or want to buy. If we are starting out
we buy a cheap drum just to see if we like it. I think that 90% of all the
drums bought end up as wall decorations rather than musical instruments.
However, those who find that they have a yearning to be a drummer either for
their own pleasure or that of others need not be held back in any way by the
drum they possess. I began to learn on the cheapest drum I could find, and
yet, despite its humble origins, it remains one of the most beautiful toned
drums I have ever owned.
For those who might be interested, this is how I do it.
The main problem with most economy drums is that they have a tinny sound to
them, and when played they make a horrible scratching noise when struck.
Most beginners blame themselves immediately, whereas in effect, most of the
problem is the drum, not the player.
The tinny-ness can be overcome to a degree by dampening the skin slightly,
but this is only a temporary measure, and the drum soon returns to its
tinkly self as soon as it dries out again.
All professional drums have a smooth waxy feel to them and this is what the
rest of us should be aiming to play on. If we can't afford drums, lovingly
crafted by artisans, skins tanned and supple, frames scalloped and carved,
and consequently costing hundreds of pounds, then we must make the best with
what we have.
When buying an economy drum, wherever possible buy the smoothest skin on
offer, but whatever the state of the skin, any residual roughness can be
alleviated by rubbing down with the finest grade wet and dry sandpaper (the
black stuff). Spit is a good lubricant but those of a more delicate
disposition can use a lightly moistened cloth. Don't be afraid to rub hard.
I usually have some 20 or 30 drums on the go at any one time and have found
it impossible to rub through the skin. Bit by bit the skin will go
beautifully smooth, and will begin to have a little of that elusive waxyness
we are aiming for. Sadly, those who have bought ornamental drums with a
pattern on the surface may either have to sacrifice the pattern or sand
around it. The screen printing is often quite shiny and smooth anyway so
this shouldn't be a problem. As an aside, I don't know of any professional
who plays a drum with a pattern on it.
Having got the skin smooth, the next objective is to oil it. The reason for
this is two-fold. Firstly to make the skin less susceptible to moisture and
secondly to improve its playing performance.
The oil of my choice is HOOF OIL. This is a rather smelly vegetable oil
which stops horse getting cracked or diseased hooves. It works wonders for
drums too. Despite what the text books say I ladle this on with gay
abandon. (Am I allowed to say that these days?) Placing the drum on a flat
surface, pour it onto the outer surface. Rub it in with your fingers and
then leave it to stand for half a day. Try not to let it run down the side
of the drum if you can. It won't hurt the drum in any way, but if you have
velvet or cloth binding to cover the pins, it may stain. But what the hell,
we want a drum that will sound good, not a pretty object to put on the wall.
When it has had a chance to really soak into the skin, wipe off the excess
and turn the drum over. Forget whatever you have read in drumming lore, and
pour copious amount of hoof oil inside the drum. Again rub it in with your
fingers, only this time try to force it into the very fibres of the skin.
By now some of the skin may be becoming transparent, but don't worry. Again
take no notice of those who say you shouldn't by a drum you can see through,
the end justifies the means in this case. Anyway, any transparency will
disappear again in time. After a few hours, wipe off the excess and you
will be the proud owner of a large brown smelly piece of skin and wood, a
stained carpet, fish wives hands and a fumigated kitchen. But above all you
will have a drum that sounds a hundred pounds more valuable than the price
you paid for it.
I have done this to Jim Byrne drums, Waltons and all the economy imports I
can find and I have never had cause to regret my actions. I also use it on
my professional drums too, but don't tell anyone.
Happy smooth-waxy-drumming to you all
Alan Collinson
PS Hoof oil is marketed in the UK by Car and Day and Martin of Lancaster
01524 381821. Make sure you get the oil, there is a paste too but that
isn't as good. Neatsfoot oil will do too but its synthetic so I don't like
to use it. However if you want to keep your drum in a pristine white
condition then use Neatsfoot by all means. Ordinary Dubbin or saddle soap
will work too. "
Hope that helps,
Chris
-
Goldie
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That was a really good post Chris, thanks a lot, we have a couple here to try it out on.
For the price range you are looking for, Jim, Brendan White does sell a non-tunable as Chris said for Euro 90,-- with 42 cm diameter. We have seen quite a few a his drums and they are heavier than most but they do have a really nice tone and he uses good skins. His website is http://www.bodhran.nl This should be a bodhran for long term, they are well made and you can have it custom made to how you want it.
Brigitte
For the price range you are looking for, Jim, Brendan White does sell a non-tunable as Chris said for Euro 90,-- with 42 cm diameter. We have seen quite a few a his drums and they are heavier than most but they do have a really nice tone and he uses good skins. His website is http://www.bodhran.nl This should be a bodhran for long term, they are well made and you can have it custom made to how you want it.
Brigitte
-
Blayne Chastain
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- Location: Colorado
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Good choice... I think he's pretty good about keeping stock as well... Getting one of his nontunables is probably like getting one of Olwells bamboo flutes... Can't go wrong! As an aside (sort of...) I played a super cheap waltons last night at the session at Fado in denver... it was super tiny... After putting about a quarter of a pint glass full of water on the back of the skin (it's super dry this time of year...) it actually started to sound quite nice (not as nice as my O'Connell mind you!) But hey... you can learn the basic sticking technique with a cardboard box! Which I guess isn't to far off from a Waltons! he he... No... there is a place for affordably priced instruments... It also gives you a sense for what your "ideal" drum would be...On 2002-11-19 17:53, Goldie wrote:
That was a really good post Chris, thanks a lot, we have a couple here to try it out on.
For the price range you are looking for, Jim, Brendan White does sell a non-tunable as Chris said for Euro 90,-- with 42 cm diameter. We have seen quite a few a his drums and they are heavier than most but they do have a really nice tone and he uses good skins. His website is http://www.bodhran.nl This should be a bodhran for long term, they are well made and you can have it custom made to how you want it.
Brigitte
-
John-N
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- Location: Tulsa, OK
- Contact:
Jim,
I have a good quality beginner bodhran that I was going to put on ebay. It's a Walton 18" with crossbar and goatskin. It's is perfect shape and I'll throw the tipper in for free.
If you are interested send me an email and we can work out the details. I can post and picture and sound file if that would help.
-John
I have a good quality beginner bodhran that I was going to put on ebay. It's a Walton 18" with crossbar and goatskin. It's is perfect shape and I'll throw the tipper in for free.
If you are interested send me an email and we can work out the details. I can post and picture and sound file if that would help.
-John
-
tkelly
- Posts: 358
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- Location: Newark DE
I'm the person who bought Lee's first bodhran, also bc I wanted to try one and couldn't afford to drop a lot of money on something I might not like or be able to do. Happens that the local Irish Club had a bodhran workshop just last week, which I went to. That's the first time I did much with the drum (there's a slight matter of a dissertation getting between me and my music for just a little while longer). The drum is fine. Not great, but I think it's good enough for what I need right now.
If I had the $$ I would love to have a better drum. But several people at the workshop had drums similar to mine. The instructor and other experienced drummers said they were fine for beginners, which was what I thought. If I stay with it and get somewhat serious, I'll get a better drum along the line somewhere. That is, after I get the Burke Brass Pro I've been wanting but can't afford either.
I do now want a new tipper, though. Someone lent me a very light one, which was much easier to play with than the one I'd started with. When I need a few more things, I'll order one up somewhere.
Just a beginner's .02
Tery
If I had the $$ I would love to have a better drum. But several people at the workshop had drums similar to mine. The instructor and other experienced drummers said they were fine for beginners, which was what I thought. If I stay with it and get somewhat serious, I'll get a better drum along the line somewhere. That is, after I get the Burke Brass Pro I've been wanting but can't afford either
.I do now want a new tipper, though. Someone lent me a very light one, which was much easier to play with than the one I'd started with. When I need a few more things, I'll order one up somewhere.
Just a beginner's .02
Tery