How frequently do you oil?

Gordon · Post by **Gordon** » Fri Nov 15, 2002 9:45 am

I agree with you, Brad, particularly in regard to blackwood. I oil mine, semi-occasionally, but get absolutely no sense that it's actually sinking in; the wood is quite oily and non-porous by itself. As I said earlier, I oil it more out of a sense that it can't hurt, even if it doesn't help. It does make it look nice and shiny on the outside, for a day or two, but it's played so often that, frankly, I don't think it ever really has time to sink in. I oiled it regularly, as instructed, when I first bought it, but now I just feel like I'm furniture polishing -- looks nicer, but unless company's coming over, doesn't do much for the sound. In addition, I actually think it plays better when I haven't oiled it, as long as I play more regularly.
As I also said, my old German (which I think is rosewood, or some sort of cocus, not ebony like most) likes to sop up the oil, but if I forget about it awhile (since I don't play it nearly as often), it seems no worse for having not been oiled.
I have an old Moeck alto recorder in maple that I have never oiled, going on almost thirty years. I heard once, though,that these recorders were impregnated with a parafin, and shouldn't be oiled (as it will undo the parafin). Anyone know if this is true?

MandoPaul · Post by **MandoPaul** » Fri Nov 15, 2002 11:42 am

On 2002-11-15 10:45, Gordon wrote:
I have an old Moeck alto recorder in maple that I have never oiled, going on almost thirty years. I heard once, though,that these recorders were impregnated with a parafin, and shouldn't be oiled (as it will undo the parafin). Anyone know if this is true?

According to the Moeck website, you don't need to oil the impregnated versions but there's no harm if you do; it just rolls off.

Gordon · Post by **Gordon** » Fri Nov 15, 2002 1:10 pm

Thanks -- I did wonder about that (without taking the time to check out the Moeck website. When I bought the recorder, in '75 or so, there were no websites).
I won't oil it, then. Thanks again.

RudallRose · Post by **RudallRose** » Sat Nov 16, 2002 1:21 am

the old manuals say "sweet oil" or "sweet almond" oil.
The recommended frequency: after you put it down from playing.
That is, swab out the moisture of playing, then lightly swab a light "glistening" coat of the oil inside.
Don't oil the flute in preparation to play, but only afterward, to inhibit any additional moisture retention.
I must say, I've done this recently with the old Pratten that I've been playing. I can't wait to pick it up the next day to play. It's a beautiful sound (after it's been standing up on a stand overnight).
I always swab the flutes out of moisture after a session or gig. Then when I get them home, they get the inner swab of oil. Of course, my flutes are all in a humidity-controlled room of my home (65% with no lower than 50%).
The outsides I oil about once a month in the winter months, except the boxwood flutes, which get it once a week. They look nicer, too!
Oh, and the best rag to apply the oil....the dust-free cloths available at eyeglass shops for cleaning lenses. (The ones with no solution impregnated in them of course)...best are the silk types. Cost is about $2,50 and they last a long time.
Either way, great to see people taking care of their flutes. Be sure to do the ends of tenons and the block mounts (any end grain!). The flute soaks it up as needed.

rosenlof · Post by **rosenlof** » Sat Nov 16, 2002 10:39 am

Now that's interesting, David. That means oiling while the bore is damp. For some reason, I've always oiled when my flute hasn't been played for about 24 hours, so the wood in the bore is relatively dry (Colorado climate!). I swab on a coat of almond oil, let it sit for a few hours, then clean off any excess that I can. I'll then wipe the outside lightly with the oily cloth. I sometimes wonder if it all _really_ makes a difference.

totst · Post by **totst** » Sat Nov 16, 2002 5:35 pm

So when oiling the headjoint, do you take the stopper out every time or just leave it in? Thanks.

Tots

boyd · Post by **boyd** » Sat Nov 16, 2002 6:02 pm

How come we don't [usually] oil the uilleann pipes chanter?
I know it's "dry" compared to a flute, but even allowing for that, would it affect the tone of the instrument if we did oil it occasionally?

Boyd

[edited for spwelling]

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: boyd on 2002-11-16 19:04 ]</font>

chas · Post by **chas** » Sat Nov 16, 2002 7:44 pm

On 2002-11-16 02:21, David Migoya wrote:
I must say, I've done this recently with the old Pratten that I've been playing. I can't wait to pick it up the next day to play. It's a beautiful sound (after it's been standing up on a stand overnight).

It's interesting -- I just received a boxwood whistle from Phil Bleazey, and he said that one would always notice the difference in a freshly oiled whistle. He said it would have a fresher sound. I had never heard that before, now twice in two days.

Now -- Michael Grinter suggested soaking the heads of his whistles in oil, Bleazey says never to get any oil in the windway (both are all wood, I think both have cedar plugs). Who's right? I know this is whistle-related, but this seems the right thread for it.

Thanks, Charlie

sturob · Post by **sturob** » Sun Nov 17, 2002 10:11 am

Going on what David mentioned as the old missive-Gospel regarding oiling . . . his comments and the comments which followed are particularly interesting.

I'm a once-every-couple-of-months oiler on everything but my cocus R&R, which gets oiled about every month because I just can't stand not doing it. Not that I think I'm necessarily doing anything by oiling, but it makes me feel better.

David mentioned that he loves to play his Pratten after oiling it . . . I do, too, the tone is so smooth and the response so bright. (Not of David's Pratten, but you get my drift.) Now I wonder why the old manuals recommend oiling after playing? That seems wrong to me; the oil will just float on the moisture and have zero chance of penetrating anything. I've always foregone fluty fancies for a day or so before oiling so's to give the (snake) oil the best chance of penetrating if that's what it needs to do.

Don't you get the same tone if you oil right before you play, David?

Stuart

jim stone · Post by **jim stone** » Sun Nov 17, 2002 12:01 pm

About Moeck maple alto recorders from
75, anybody have an idea what they're
worth? I have one with ivory rings...
Don't know what to do with it.

RudallRose · Post by **RudallRose** » Sun Nov 17, 2002 11:28 pm

Actually, i've found that oiling the flute, then playing right after that doesn't produce as nice a tone at all.
By totally wiping out the water, oiling the interior lightly (lightly, I said!) and letting it stand overnight, the next day will have a booming, wonderful tone, that will last for days (or the next time you play it hard).
There's much about this hydration issue....how much of the oil gets soaked in, etec, etc.....
i say it does. Shown by just wiping the inside, let it stand, then look inside the next morning....most of it is likely soaked in.
Funny, though....some owners have their flutes dripping in oil, they're so afraid of cracks that they get cracks from expansion! Case in point, owner of a Rudall had it dripping and loved it that way (I thought it was a mess, but still played well, oddly). He had three splits inside the bore; interior bore cracks. Yuk.

RudallRose · Post by **RudallRose** » Sun Nov 17, 2002 11:30 pm

and to tots:
take the stopper out, yes, when oiling a headjoint that is unlined (or partially lined).
No point in putting oil on a metal tube.
Make sure you mark where the cork was (as you like to play it) and return it to that spot....great time, too, to regrease the cork so it doesn't dry out.

MandoPaul · Post by **MandoPaul** » Sun Nov 17, 2002 11:41 pm

On 2002-11-18 00:30, David Migoya wrote:
great time, too, to regrease the cork so it doesn't dry out.

How often do you need to regrease the cork, both for a solid cork and for a delrin plug with cork lining?

clark · Post by **clark** » Tue Nov 19, 2002 5:05 am

I have made a very nice portable oiling gizmo that fits in my case and allows me to oil frequently without any messiness and no oil on the fingers.

I bought something that came in a thin clear plastic tube about 5/8 inch in diameter. I cut the length down to about 5 and 1/2 inches and got a rubber stopper that fit the open end at the hardware store. I then drilled a small hole in the middle of the stopper. I took one of those cheap, skinny cotton recorder swabs (I use them for my whistles) that has the twisted metal handle. You know, the kind with the fuzzy cotton cylinder about 1/2 inch in diameter and four inches long? I slid the twisted metal handle thorough the hole drilled in the rubber stopper. After oiling the swab lightly it can be placed in the plastic tube with the stopper keeping everything clean.

After I play I remove the swab and slide the rubber stopper up the handle and swab a little oil around the blow hole and in the head joint. About every third or forth time I play I do the inside of the body. With this set-up it is possible to titrate the oil dosage VERY exactly. My flute never gets a dripping bath only frequent, VERY light skim of oil.

Clark

RudallRose · Post by **RudallRose** » Tue Nov 19, 2002 3:11 pm

of course, clark, you're in hawaii, where oil on the human skin is about all you need, considering the humidity and constant climate!
When I was in Hawaii two years ago, I brought along one of my flutes as a treat.....for the flute, not as much for me! It loved it.