Don't try this at home...
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Don't try this at home...
Since I was about to buy a new flute, I thought I'd have a go at modifying my 1 piece Dixon to try and overcome it's shortcomings.
After reading an excellent article on Terry McGee's website about the shape of embouchures, I decided that the Dixon lacked rounded sides which was causing too much wind noise.
So after 10 minutes of careful filing with a rat-tailled file, I washed out the filings and blew.
I started with the low D and that came readily and smoothly although it did sound like it had lost some of its raspy edge. Then the E, which is my least favourite excuse of a note, but that sounded much better balanced less thin and wheezy and slightly more full and mellow. The F and G were both vibrant and full. Even the notes in the upper register were fuller.
After an hour of playing, this felt like a new instrument - it is far easier and producing a full, rich note every time whereas before some notes were just thin and wheezy. It's also louder because I can pump more air into it without as much wind noise. It's more responsive, the low D sounds almost immediately even when suddenly dropping to it from a high note.
If I can only sort out the tuning, I won't need to buy another flute afterall. I'll try and make a parabolic wedge to insert into it.
I just thought I'd share this, in the hope that others find it useful.
After reading an excellent article on Terry McGee's website about the shape of embouchures, I decided that the Dixon lacked rounded sides which was causing too much wind noise.
So after 10 minutes of careful filing with a rat-tailled file, I washed out the filings and blew.
I started with the low D and that came readily and smoothly although it did sound like it had lost some of its raspy edge. Then the E, which is my least favourite excuse of a note, but that sounded much better balanced less thin and wheezy and slightly more full and mellow. The F and G were both vibrant and full. Even the notes in the upper register were fuller.
After an hour of playing, this felt like a new instrument - it is far easier and producing a full, rich note every time whereas before some notes were just thin and wheezy. It's also louder because I can pump more air into it without as much wind noise. It's more responsive, the low D sounds almost immediately even when suddenly dropping to it from a high note.
If I can only sort out the tuning, I won't need to buy another flute afterall. I'll try and make a parabolic wedge to insert into it.
I just thought I'd share this, in the hope that others find it useful.
Go get yourself some PVC and make a few of your own.
You can then try different emb cuts without mucking with your Dixon.
Ive been adding lip plates on mine to experiment with chimney height as well.
I find it makes for some fascinating experiments.
Eveyone is getting PVC flutes this Xmas!
You can then try different emb cuts without mucking with your Dixon.
Ive been adding lip plates on mine to experiment with chimney height as well.
I find it makes for some fascinating experiments.
Eveyone is getting PVC flutes this Xmas!
Aanvil
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I am not an expert
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I am not an expert
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- Chiffed
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A suggestion from my meager workshop: It's not too hard to find tonkin bamboo with an inside diameter close to PVC outside diameter. Carve a nice bamboo lipplate, epoxy it on, and drill away. Very comfy on the lip, and the bamboo can be ground down to whatever thickness you like. Marine epoxy with microballoons works great (none have cracked or popped off yet) but anything is worth a try. A very(!) sharp exacto blade is more effective for carving than files, in my experience.Aanvil wrote:Go get yourself some PVC and make a few of your own.
You can then try different emb cuts without mucking with your Dixon.
Ive been adding lip plates on mine to experiment with chimney height as well.
I find it makes for some fascinating experiments.
Eveyone is getting PVC flutes this Xmas!
Happily tooting when my dogs let me.
- Jack Bradshaw
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- Doug_Tipple
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Marine epoxy with microballons? What is that? Thus far, I have been using superglue to glue the pvc lip plate to a pvc headjoint. The slower setting superglue that I have been using gives me enough time to get the lip plate clamped in place before the glue starts to harden. However, I have had one report of a lip plate coming unglued when the flute was dropped. Maybe the superglue is too hard and brittle for this task. I am curious whether epoxy might provide a better bond between two pices of pvc. Is this where the microballons come into play?Chiffed wrote:A suggestion from my meager workshop: It's not too hard to find tonkin bamboo with an inside diameter close to PVC outside diameter. Carve a nice bamboo lipplate, epoxy it on, and drill away. Very comfy on the lip, and the bamboo can be ground down to whatever thickness you like. Marine epoxy with microballoons works great (none have cracked or popped off yet) but anything is worth a try. A very(!) sharp exacto blade is more effective for carving than files, in my experience.Aanvil wrote:Go get yourself some PVC and make a few of your own.
You can then try different emb cuts without mucking with your Dixon.
Ive been adding lip plates on mine to experiment with chimney height as well.
I find it makes for some fascinating experiments.
Eveyone is getting PVC flutes this Xmas!
- Loren
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Chiffed wrote: Carve a nice bamboo lipplate...........A very(!) sharp exacto blade is more effective for carving than files, in my experience.
Shocking, that a knife would carve better than a file.
Loren
Last edited by Loren on Wed Dec 20, 2006 9:42 am, edited 1 time in total.
- dow
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Doug,Doug_Tipple wrote:Chiffed wrote:Marine epoxy with microballons? What is that? Thus far, I have been using superglue to glue the pvc lip plate to a pvc headjoint. The slower setting superglue that I have been using gives me enough time to get the lip plate clamped in place before the glue starts to harden. However, I have had one report of a lip plate coming unglued when the flute was dropped. Maybe the superglue is too hard and brittle for this task. I am curious whether epoxy might provide a better bond between two pices of pvc. Is this where the microballons come into play?
Have you tried using the regular PVC plumbing cement? I know it's smelly, but it bonds PVC to itself very well. Should give you a bit of working time, too.
Dow Mathis ∴
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Microballoons and epoxy are used in two different ways....
1. A very few small micro ballons (or solid spheres) are added to the mix to insure a minimum thickness to the epoxy bond...it should not be infinetly thin..
2. A high proportion of microballoons can be added to bulk up the epoxy and lower the density of the resultant material (or increase it if you use solid spheres of dense material). We used to do this alot to make acoustic matching layers for ultrasonic transducers....
1. A very few small micro ballons (or solid spheres) are added to the mix to insure a minimum thickness to the epoxy bond...it should not be infinetly thin..
2. A high proportion of microballoons can be added to bulk up the epoxy and lower the density of the resultant material (or increase it if you use solid spheres of dense material). We used to do this alot to make acoustic matching layers for ultrasonic transducers....
603/329-7322
"I fail to see why doing the same thing over and over and getting the
same results every time is insanity: I've almost proved it isn't;
only a few more tests now and I'm sure results will differ this time ... "
"I fail to see why doing the same thing over and over and getting the
same results every time is insanity: I've almost proved it isn't;
only a few more tests now and I'm sure results will differ this time ... "
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Howdy,
Microballoons are simply tiny glass beads used as a thickening agent in epoxy or polyester resin.
http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/categor ... 1367634711
I would also recommend pvc cement, it fuses the two pieces of pvc together. However, in my experience, the working time has been relatively short - about 30 seconds or so. Use a respirator too, it stinks.
Best,
Dave
Microballoons are simply tiny glass beads used as a thickening agent in epoxy or polyester resin.
http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/categor ... 1367634711
I would also recommend pvc cement, it fuses the two pieces of pvc together. However, in my experience, the working time has been relatively short - about 30 seconds or so. Use a respirator too, it stinks.
Best,
Dave
- Chiffed
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The only reason I went for thickened epoxy was to fill any gaps between the bamboo and the PVC. If done right, it can be a really tough, flexible, and bubble-free bond. I'm very serious about safety with epoxy liquid, dust, and solvents: I'm sensitive to any solvent stronger than vinegar (which works pretty well).Doug_Tipple wrote:
Marine epoxy with microballons? What is that? Thus far, I have been using superglue to glue the pvc lip plate to a pvc headjoint. The slower setting superglue that I have been using gives me enough time to get the lip plate clamped in place before the glue starts to harden. However, I have had one report of a lip plate coming unglued when the flute was dropped. Maybe the superglue is too hard and brittle for this task. I am curious whether epoxy might provide a better bond between two pices of pvc. Is this where the microballons come into play?
For PVC to PVC, I always use solvent cement (outdoors). Even good CA glue like SuperT dries more brittle than the PVC. If you try epoxy, I'd suggest trying to get the hardness of the adhesive close to the hardness of the pvc. This makes it so much easier to work (carving or filing the emb. )
Happily tooting when my dogs let me.