Cleaning aluminum?

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Loren
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Post by Loren »

Innocent Bystander wrote:If toothpaste does the job, then fullers earth may do it better - at least where metal is concerned. It is what jewellers use to clean the old tom

"the old tom" ??? Help me out on that one, I'm not familiar with the term.


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Post by WhistlinBob »

You can get jewlers rouge in kits that have 5 grades for the best polish possible with a small bench buffer you can get a mirror finish without taking off too much aluminum.
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Post by Loren »

5 grades of polish is overkill for nearly anything, and if one were to use the heaviest 1 or 2 of the typical grades of jeweler's polish on a thin walled aluminum whistle, one could easily take off too much metal, or take it off unevenly, particularly if one hasn't some experience using the buffing wheel. In most cases rouge alone, is enough to take all but the heaviest scratches off of metals harder than aluminum, like sliver and brass. However, I've never had occasion to buff aluminum on the wheel maybe Jessie has and can comment, when she's feeling better.

A buffing wheel seems a like over kill for most folks, but might not be a bad idea for Doc, who has so many instruments coming and going. Word of advice though - never buff metal and wood on the same wheel - you'll get metal transfer into the wood when you buff wood on a wheel that has been used for metal. Something to be avoided at all costs.



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WhistlinBob
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Post by WhistlinBob »

Loren, The kits I use happen to come with five polishing rouge sticks. This system combined with my buffer wheel set to slow speed is how I give my finished aluminum products there mirror finish.Thicker walled aircraft grade aluminum is very tough. The finest grade rouge removes very little material. I start with the next grade up.If removal of to much material is a concern a polishing cloth and the fine rouge and some elbow grease will give you the same results but at a time premium.
Time I don't have.
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Cleaning aluminum?

Post by KATaylor5 »

Hmm I suppose the reason why Doc is asking the question is because I just bought 2 aluminum whistles from him that he said are a little worn but play fine. I'm guessing he just wanted to polish them up a bit before sending them out to me.

I've been reading the suggestions and all I have to say is:

Doc,
If you're going to use toothbrush and toothpaste...please make sure it isn't YOUR toothbrush and toothpaste:) hee hee.

Or, just don't tell me how you polished up my whistles:) It may be best that I don't know:)
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Re: Cleaning aluminum?

Post by Doc Jones »

KATaylor5 wrote:Hmm I suppose the reason why Doc is asking the question is because I just bought 2 aluminum whistles from him that he said are a little worn but play fine. I'm guessing he just wanted to polish them up a bit before sending them out to me.

I've been reading the suggestions and all I have to say is:

Doc,
If you're going to use toothbrush and toothpaste...please make sure it isn't YOUR toothbrush and toothpaste:) hee hee.

Or, just don't tell me how you polished up my whistles:) It may be best that I don't know:)
Hi Kim,

Sad to say they went out looking as they came in as I didn't know nuttin' yet. I washed them though. :)

In the mean time Michael Burke has been kind enough to email me the following and said it was fine to share it:

Hi Patrick,
I would not use 0000 steel wool on an aluminum whistle unless it already
has a matte or brushed finish. If it is one of mine, it will not look
good if you use steel wool on it. Ideally, a cloth polishing wheel with
some white diamond polish would make it like new, but if you are
polishing brass with polish, then why not use Never-Dull on the
aluminum? It is fine for aluminum, but get ready for a lot of black on
your hands and go over it a few times and polish vigorously, then wipe
down with alcohol.... Never-Dull is a cotton wadding polish
that is in auto departments or stores. I get mine at Walmart.
All the best
Mike


Thanks much Michael.

Interestingly, I've never had an aluminum Burke come through that I didn't think looked great regardless of the age. It's only the matte-finished whistles that occasionally could use a little touch up.

Doc
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Post by Loren »

WhistlinBob wrote:Loren, The kits I use happen to come with five polishing rouge sticks. This system combined with my buffer wheel set to slow speed is how I give my finished aluminum products there mirror finish.Thicker walled aircraft grade aluminum is very tough. The finest grade rouge removes very little material. I start with the next grade up.If removal of to much material is a concern a polishing cloth and the fine rouge and some elbow grease will give you the same results but at a time premium.
Time I don't have.
Bob, I understand what you're saying, and I have no doubt what you are using works well for your purposes (although I'm not certain exactly what those are) however, I'm attempting to clarify in an effort to avoid confusion for those with little or no experience, who are specifically interested in polishing already made whistles.

To that end: In the jewelery trade, there are several different types of buffing compounds, but typically only the finest (least abrasive) are referred to as "Rouge", which come in different colors for different metals, although the red works well for most common metals, and as MB suggested, White Diamond might be a good choice for aluminum, as it is made for softer metals. Some of the compounds you are using, are very likely not rouge or White Diamond like, but heavier cutting compounds, which would be inapropriate for polishing already finished whistles simply in need of a touch up.


Also, bench top buffing machines often only come with one speed, which may be relatively high. This, when combined with something more abrasive than than the standard rouge, may take metal off very quickly, particularly in the hands of someone not experienced with wheel buffing and compounds.

Finally, with regard to different types of aluminum: Certainly some are hardier than others, however in general, the type of aluminum we most often see whistles made from, is softer/less abrasion resistant than the Brass, Nickel and Silver we see in whistle bodies and parts, so I'm simply urging caution. Certainly those with experience, like yourself, don't need this advice, for others however, it might mean the difference between a polished whistle, and a ruined one, if you see what I mean.


Loren
Last edited by Loren on Fri Oct 13, 2006 12:44 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Cleaning aluminum?

Post by Loren »

Doc Jones wrote:Interestingly, I've never had an aluminum Burke come through that I didn't think looked great regardless of the age. It's only the matte-finished whistles that occasionally could use a little touch up.

Doc
Different makers get their matte finishes in different ways, which is why I didn't give specifics, best to contact a maker the maker in question. In general, the matte type finish is more prone to showing noticable scratches than some polished finishes from the same material. However, unless I'm mistaken, the thin walled aluminum alloy that MB and other makers of thin walled aluminum whistles use, is different (more abrasion resistant) than the thick walled aluminum alloy used to make the normally matte finished aluminum whistles we generally see.


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Post by PhilO »

greenspiderweb wrote:
PhilO wrote:
Bloomfield wrote: Just bury in soft peat for six months, rinse well, and the grey finish is back.
Do I have to sit there with it?

Philo
:oops: Sorry, PhilO, kind of shot you down for that one, didn't I?

I suggest a bottle of Single Malt; it's got a lot of peat already in it-drink a little, polish a little, drink a little...by the end of the bottle, your whistle will be very clean and shiny! But do a test bottle on O'Briains!
Not to worry Barry, that was my blunder, with the best of intentions. You know how heavy handed I am, I've already gone through a case of single malt with this whistle polishing regimen. :D

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Post by PhilO »

Loren wrote:
PhilO wrote:
Bloomfield wrote:Steel wool. 0000.
Great on shiny aluminum, but will remove that nice steel grey finish on O'Briains for example, as I found the hard way.

Philo

Dude, what's with you and your steel wool?? Who told you it was good for whatever ailed a whistle Phil? :lol:



Loren
Loren, you should see the amazing effect it has on my wooden whistles. :lol:

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Post by Innocent Bystander »

Loren wrote:
Innocent Bystander wrote:If toothpaste does the job, then fullers earth may do it better - at least where metal is concerned. It is what jewellers use to clean the old tom

"the old tom" ??? Help me out on that one, I'm not familiar with the term.


Loren

Sorry - Cockney Rhyming Slang. Tom = Tomfoolery = Jewellery :wink:

(After I posted it I thought "Oh dear, that's going to cause confusion" but then I was called away.)
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Post by regor »

Toothpaste, .. I wouldn't use anything toxic on something I stick in my mouth! Never mind rincing it afterward... would you trust putting a whistle in your mouth after polishing it with lets say PCB, Rat Poison or Cyanide and a good rince? :shock:

Even traces of toxic polishing compound can't be good for your health.
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Post by DavidSchulz »

Well I just used an SOS pad to clean up the fipple of my newly acquired Overton low F, looked like one of it's previous owners was a fipple bitter :wink: ...... looks as good as new now.
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