Possible Bore Scratches? Please HELP!
- JackFeeney
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Possible Bore Scratches? Please HELP!
In another thread, Jim Stone asked for advice about flute swabs. And some of the responses he received caused me to rethink the way I swab by Casey Burns FF (and I thought I was being very careful in this area, however...).
Over the past four months, using a rubber-coated clothes hanger with two centimeters of the end bent over to form "an eye of a needle," I would thread a narrow patch of clean T-shirt fabric through that to swab the top and bottom halves of my CBFF. The "eye of the needle" is formed in such a way that no scratching is possible.
The problem is with the other end of the swab and the bottom half of the CBFF. To pull through the swab, I would drop the straight end of the coated hanger through (which has a sharp metal tip), until a few inches of the hanger appeared. Then I'd pull it through. (I know how bad that sounds. Forgive me, Casey Burns, if you're reading this.)
Of course, I'll completely change that routine henceforth, following the advice offered in Jim Stone's thread. At any rate, as a result of doing what I just described, I noticed today the inside of my flute's bore has a few light scratches. Not grooves. Just fine scratches.
I'm still working on developing a resonant sound, so I'm in no position to assess damage, tonewise. Any recommendations?
Over the past four months, using a rubber-coated clothes hanger with two centimeters of the end bent over to form "an eye of a needle," I would thread a narrow patch of clean T-shirt fabric through that to swab the top and bottom halves of my CBFF. The "eye of the needle" is formed in such a way that no scratching is possible.
The problem is with the other end of the swab and the bottom half of the CBFF. To pull through the swab, I would drop the straight end of the coated hanger through (which has a sharp metal tip), until a few inches of the hanger appeared. Then I'd pull it through. (I know how bad that sounds. Forgive me, Casey Burns, if you're reading this.)
Of course, I'll completely change that routine henceforth, following the advice offered in Jim Stone's thread. At any rate, as a result of doing what I just described, I noticed today the inside of my flute's bore has a few light scratches. Not grooves. Just fine scratches.
I'm still working on developing a resonant sound, so I'm in no position to assess damage, tonewise. Any recommendations?
Jack Feeney
- Jumbuk
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Jack,
Looking down the barrel of my fairly new FF, I can see a few light scratches and what appears to be a straight groove on one side. I am pretty sure they were there when I got it. I don't think you should be too worried. I don't know enough about the physics of flute design, but intuitively it doesn't seem a big cause for concern.
... but I would be more careful in future. You would hope that the same flute will still be played by someone when you are long gone.
Looking down the barrel of my fairly new FF, I can see a few light scratches and what appears to be a straight groove on one side. I am pretty sure they were there when I got it. I don't think you should be too worried. I don't know enough about the physics of flute design, but intuitively it doesn't seem a big cause for concern.
... but I would be more careful in future. You would hope that the same flute will still be played by someone when you are long gone.
- JackFeeney
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- Cathy Wilde
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My guess is that you're fine. It's far, far safer to use wood or plastic, but scratches happen sometimes (you should see my old warhorse! Between the grain of the wood and the scratches, it looks almost corrugated inside!).
Anyway, if it really bothers you in the future, Casey or someone in the fine- woodwind repair biz can probably pop the thing onto a reamer and polish the bore for you a bit.
Anyway, if it really bothers you in the future, Casey or someone in the fine- woodwind repair biz can probably pop the thing onto a reamer and polish the bore for you a bit.
Deja Fu: The sense that somewhere, somehow, you've been kicked in the head exactly like this before.
- Blackbeer
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Hey Jack why not make yourself a nice cleaning rod and forget worring about that bore. Mine was quite simple, I use a long piece of dowl. One end I drilled a hole down the center of the dowl about an inch or two. Then cut a hole on the side of the dowl to meet up with the hole I drilled. So what I do is feed my tee shirt piece through the hole I drilled in the end of the dowl and pull it out of the hole I cut in the side and there you have it. The tee shirt protects the cork from getting messed up from the end of the rod, I can pull the rod through the broken down flute and swab out those parts and I marked the other side of the dowl with the correct measurment for placing the cork in most of my flutes. I think we aubsess a bit with our flutes when we first start out but they are not that fragile. Heck one of mine was made in 1830 and I`m sure its getting better care now then it has ever gotten. Anyway give this a try, I think you`ll like it and it will give you a little less to worry about.
Take care
Tom
Take care
Tom
- JackFeeney
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Re: Possible Bore Scratches? Please HELP!
what i did...JackFeeney wrote:The problem is with the other end of the swab and the bottom half of the CBFF. To pull through the swab, I would drop the straight end of the coated hanger through (which has a sharp metal tip),
fold over that end of the rod (with pliers) and wrap in duct tape to cushion it. never scratches.
I got a long very skinny stick from the hardware store, where
such things are sold cheap. I rounded the ends with a nail file,
then smoothed the whole stick with steel wool. I use this to
push a piece of silk through the bore. The cloth is wrapped around
the end of the stick. I can do the headjoint this way by just wrapping the
corner (more or less) of the cloth round the stick, this
means enough of the cloth remains outside the headjoint
that I can pull it out.
such things are sold cheap. I rounded the ends with a nail file,
then smoothed the whole stick with steel wool. I use this to
push a piece of silk through the bore. The cloth is wrapped around
the end of the stick. I can do the headjoint this way by just wrapping the
corner (more or less) of the cloth round the stick, this
means enough of the cloth remains outside the headjoint
that I can pull it out.
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It costs $40 for the folk flute, but is free for Casey's other flutes.jim stone wrote:Casey does repolish his flute's bores as a matter of
course after you have one a couple of years; I don't
know if the FF is included in this, but he's a swell
fellow and would doubtless do it.
Each time the subject of swabs comes up I explain why a 2 foot closeline does the best job, I think. Yet no one has ever commented, "yeah, that works great" or "I don't like to use that" , or anything. i can't imagen doing without one, in a session when you are waiting and you give it a quick swipe, or on a train, or around the house, or when you go out riding your horse, or what not. Never a reaction,on what I think is so common sense.
Nelson
Nelson