Casey Burns folk flute for sale

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artsohio
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Casey Burns folk flute for sale

Post by artsohio »

About 18 months old, well-maintained, excellent condition. This is the standard model. Since getting the Healy, I don't want to keep two wooden flutes oiled and humidified (I'm lazy). My backup flute is going to be a polymer and I'll use my piccolo when I want to have fast fingers.

$200 + shipping. Includes pistol case.

Email janet@artsohio.com if interested.


-Janet
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Post by Unseen122 »

Never take up Highland Bagpipes, to oil them is like oiling three or four Flutes. Good luck with the sale.
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Post by dow »

Email sent.
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Post by AaronMalcomb »

I have never oiled Highland bagpipes and you'll find the vast majority of pipers do not and the rate of cracking is probably less than with wooden flutes.

Good luck with your Healy!
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Post by Unseen122 »

That is true, but there are some who do (including myself), I wouldn't say a vast majority maybe 50/50.
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Post by artsohio »

Flute has a tentative home. Thanks y'all.
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Post by Doc Jones »

Janet is a delightful person and great to do business with. The CB FF is also a great flute. :)


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Post by dow »

I'm the guy that bought Janet's Folk Flute. It arrived this morning, and I'm thrilled with it. It's in top-notch shape, and is a real joy to play. I'm sitting here trying to decide why it's so much easier to play than the Tipple. Anyone have any thoughts?

Thanks a million, Janet!
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Post by jim stone »

Conical, smaller holed, holes closer together.
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Post by SoTX »

Well, Dow, one of the reasons is that the Burns Folk Flute is just a scary good flute. Anyone who starts on one planning to "move up" to someone else's flute may be in for a disappointment.

I'm trying desperately to figure out how to make one so good, but so far have failed. I've managed to make some seriously different ones.

Another reason might be that the embouchure is carefully shaped, and the chimney is quite a lot deeper than your Tipple. Examine the Burns embouchure closely. You will see that it is undercut assymetrically and in some interesting ways. Now look at your Tipple.

-- Don
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Post by jim stone »

Casey makes a distinctive and very good embouchure, IMO.
And the thickness of the wood allows room for undercutting;
PVC pipe is probably less congenial.

But the circular hole on Doug's flutes works remarkably
well, IMO. A consequence of conical is more space
tween holes (Casey makes easily fingered flutes),
and the Tipple's holes are bigger; this is a problem
for me, though I do well on his higher pitched flutes.
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Post by artsohio »

Salt in the wound. :sniffle: Thanks Dow and SoTX.

Honestly, I'm glad the flute went somewhere where it's going to be played and cared for.

Just a little case of seller's remorse.
"Colors changing with the keys, uneven timbre, even defects in intonation were elements of instrumental playing... Lover's eyes change into virtues the beloved's defects."

-Michel Debost, "The Simple Flute"
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Post by artsohio »

And now that I just put my Healy through its paces, I'm feeling happily monogamous again :)

Enjoy the flute, Dow!
"Colors changing with the keys, uneven timbre, even defects in intonation were elements of instrumental playing... Lover's eyes change into virtues the beloved's defects."

-Michel Debost, "The Simple Flute"
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Post by Doug_Tipple »

jim stone wrote: But the circular hole on Doug's flutes works remarkably
well, IMO. A consequence of conical is more space
tween holes (Casey makes easily fingered flutes),
and the Tipple's holes are bigger; this is a problem
for me, though I do well on his higher pitched flutes.
I think what Jim means is that cylindrical-bore flutes (flutes made from pipe) need to have a greater spacing between the finger holes. Having a conical bore allows you to have the finger holes closer together, which makes the low D conical-bore flute easier to play for people with smaller hands or for people who have a problem stretching their fingers (tendonitis, etc.). On my low D pvc flutes I use three different sizes for the finger holes, which allows the holes to be compressed as much as possible. Still it is a big stretch for some people. One advantage of larger finger holes is that a louder, clearer tone can be produced, and half-holing and slurs are easier to accomplish.

With regard to embouchure design, I still am using the basic circular shape, which in my understanding is one of the classic shapes for Irish flutes. I think that my skill in cutting a good-playing embouchure is constantly improving. I agree that some of the embouchures that I was making a year or two ago are not as good as the ones that I am making now. Also, I recently have added a lip plate option for my flutes, which allows a chimney depth similar to what is used on many wooden flutes.

Finally, I consider my flutes to be entry-level flutes, allowing people to get started with the simple-system flute without spending a lot of money up front. My basic, two-piece tunable flute with the Tipple-Fajardo wedge costs about one fourth of what a good quality basic two-piece wooden flute would cost. Also, some people who have expensive wooden flutes buy one of my flutes to travel with, take to the beach, to have on the boat, etc. With a polymer flute you don't have to worry about humidity or cracking. You can leave them assembled so that you can pick them up and play them whenever you get the urge. That appeals to me.
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