Care of flute in winter

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David Levine
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Care of flute in winter

Post by David Levine »

Do not swab your flute out completely. Pull a silk rag moistened with almond (or vegetable) oil through your flute before you put the flute away. This will put some oil on the flute and distribute the water, getting rid of puddles at the same time. You don't want large drops of water -- puddles of distillate -- inside your flute. But small bits of water won't hurt a well-oiled flute. The moisture sealed inside the case will help to prevent cracking in the winter.
Your best bet is to keep the flute in a small drawer along with a hygrometer (Radioshack- @ $20). Then put a rag in a small cup of water. The rag will wick the water into the atmosphere inside the drawer, and hydrate your flute. Start to worry if the relative humidity goes below 40-45%. Little effort and expense for a large return.
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rama
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Post by rama »

now there's someone who has managed to care for a host of flutes over the years (including 100+ yr. old flutes), with no cracks in a harsh climate.

for those who might be new to wooden flutes:

early on i did not care for flutes in a manner such as david mentioned. here is what happened:

cracked:
2 unlined heads sweetheart rosewood
1 unlined head seery blackw
2 unlined heads butler (rosew/cocus (?)
1 lined barrel hamilton blackw

no cracks:
1 lined old german blackw (?)
1 lined old french flute blackw
1 blackw abell whistle


since i started taking care:

cracks:
2 lined barrels (humidity went below 40%, on two seperate occassions)

no cracks:
8 lined flute heads 1 unlined (blackw+cocus, new + old)
Last edited by rama on Fri Dec 09, 2005 5:49 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by Hoovorff »

I'm glad to hear the advice from David. Thanks! For some reason I had been under the impression that I shouldn't oil my flute when it is still moist. (I always waited a day after playing before oiling.) But if this seems to have worked for you, I'll give it a try.

Thanks, Jeanie
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Post by scooter587 »

I live in a really dry climate, where winter rh is routinely below 20% and sometimes dips into the teens and even single digits. Indoor heating just makes it worse. Bread does not mold here--it mummifies. Human skin starts to look like alkalai flats.

So I take my flute care very seriously. My blackwood Copley lives inside a renovated clarinet case, with an accurate hygrometer in the same compartment. This whole package then goes into a plastic tub with an airtight lid whenever the flute is not in use.

I swab and oil it as David describes. I use the Bore Doctor's oil, which does not polymerize, so I oil at least every other time I use the flute, or daily in really dry conditions. Never enough oil to pool or run--just a light coat inside and out with a silk swab. All it's meant to do is moderate the movement of moisture in and out of the wood.

When the flute is played every day or every other day, the moisture left over from playing (after a light swab) has been enough to keep the case humidity at 55% to 65%. If I have to miss a few days in a row, and the forecast looks like low rh, I dampen a small piece of sponge inside an old spice jar with holes in the lid. This goes inside the plastic tub, but outside the clarinet case. With this set up, the humidity has never gone below 55% or over 70%.

Works well for me and my flute.
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Post by Whistlin'Dixie »

I know I "live in a swamp", but I have long done exactly as David says. Even in Summer, I run an oiled swab thru my flutes every time after playing. I only ever dry-swab if they are really really wet inside. And I store them in a wooden trunk with a small cup of water in there with them.

None of my flutes have cracked.

M

I've often wondered about those who oil their flutes, then stand them up so the oil can drip out the end. I have never put that much oil in my flutes, is that really what one is supposed to do?
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Post by Cathy Wilde »

I've seen my teacher tip a wee bit of almond oil into the head of his flute thru the blowhole at the beginning of a lesson and then swab it out in a minute or two. I don't know if he does it EVERY time he assembles the flute, but I've never seen him not do it. Kind of interesting ....
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Post by tin tin »

I've seen my teacher tip a wee bit of almond oil into the head of his flute thru the blowhole...
I'm assuming this is an unlined head, right? For those of you who swab with an oily rag, when swabbing out a lined head, do you use a different (non-oily) rag?

While I don't stick to a regular oiling schedule, I do keep a close eye on the humidity level. I know some advocate frequent oiling and others never oil their flutes, but there seems to be nigh-universal agreement that constant and level humidity is a good way to fend off trouble.
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David Levine
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Head cleaning

Post by David Levine »

I shake my head-joint out every so often while I am playing because it tends to gather droplets of distillate that interfere with the sound. And I do swab my head-joint when I'm done for the day. I use a half-piece of kitchen toweling paper wrapped around one end of a flat stick that measures about 1/2" wide X 1/8" thick and about 8" long. Nothing fancy but it does the trick.
You can make a dandy humidifer that will fit in the flute case by using the shell of a chap-stick tube, or use the protective tube that super-glue comes in. Drill some small holes in the tube and put a piece of damp sponge or paper in the tube.
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Post by Cathy Wilde »

Tintin wrote:
I've seen my teacher tip a wee bit of almond oil into the head of his flute thru the blowhole...
I'm assuming this is an unlined head, right?
Yes it is; I should have clarified that, huh?

I basically do the reverse of David, FWIW -- I use the silk swab for drying, and paper towel pieces for oiling. Ditto on the HJ shaking (making sure to hold onto the barrel, too!!!) during & after playing depending on how dry the air is. If the flute's pretty well-waterproofed to begin with, a wee bit of moisture shouldn't hurt anything.
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Post by BillG »

Interesting subject. I've been noticing when I play my Boxwood flute there is almost no moisture inside. I hardly ever see droplets. Is this characteristic of Boxwood? I do keep it properly oiled and here on Long Island the rh has been 50 - 60 of late.

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Post by Unseen122 »

Now that it is winter after a half hour or so of playing I might start driping it is cold in Jersey. I usually dry swab but I will have to try oil swabing it right after playing. I wouldn't want to put oil on Brass whoever asked I play a partially lined head and a git of oil does get on bass doesn't doo any thing but I would think it would make it dirty.
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Post by Hoovorff »

Bryan Byrne says NOT to oil his flutes. I've had one a few months and haven't oiled it, as per his instructions. But I'm getting nervous. I'm keeping it in a humidified box at around 55% humidity, and playing it almost daily.

I oil the other flutes I have.

Any Byrne owners have any experiences to share?

Thanks, Jeanie
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Post by Whistlin'Dixie »

Hi Jeannie: I bought my Byrne used, but somehow didn't get the message that one shouldn't oil the flute. My bad, I was given all the original paperwork with the flute! Just don't recall.

I treat the flute as I do all my others. If I play, i swab with the lightly oiled rag afterwards. What can it hurt? I don't know.

Cheers
Mary

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Post by chas »

BillG wrote:Interesting subject. I've been noticing when I play my Boxwood flute there is almost no moisture inside. I hardly ever see droplets. Is this characteristic of Boxwood? I do keep it properly oiled and here on Long Island the rh has been 50 - 60 of late.
A boxwood flute will make a lot less condensation than a blackwood or cocobolo flute. I definitely don't get none, but it is a lot less.

I wanted to point something out that I noticed last night. Sometimes a few drops of water will collect in a socket that aren't wicked up during normal swabbing. Be on the lookout for these, as sockets are quite susceptible to cracking, and the non-uniform swelling from a poorly placed drop or two can certainly exacerbate any problems in the wood.
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Post by lixnaw »

chas wrote:
I wanted to point something out that I noticed last night. Sometimes a few drops of water will collect in a socket that aren't wicked up during normal swabbing. Be on the lookout for these, as sockets are quite susceptible to cracking, and the non-uniform swelling from a poorly placed drop or two can certainly exacerbate any problems in the wood.
common sence Charlie, that's why i dry-swab every time.
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