Cleaning African Blackwood

[Wormdiet]

In the interests of cleaning up an old GHB chanter I have, does anybody have a good method of removing tape residue from African Blackwood in a way that won't harm the wood?

[Screeeech!!!]

Wouldn't white spirit do it?

I use white spirit to mix 50% with tung oil for penetration and ease of application and it works wonders. You could probably try mixing 50% with the oil you normally use to clean it.

I do qualify that i've never done this with black wood, but it is the accepted method of applying tung oil's first dozen or so coats on all woods.

Not sure what you call it in American, but it's also known as stoddard solvent.

[Cynth]

I believe the finest oboes, among other instruments I'm sure, are made of African Blackwood. There might be information about how to surface clean an instrument made of African Blackwood on an oboe care website. Just a thought, don't have time to search right now.

[chas]

The thing I hate about tape residue is, you never know what solvent will clean it off. I believe people on the board have said that acetone is safe for flute woods. I'd try it first. Next I'd try the high-purity isopropyl alcohol available at the drug store. (I don't think you want to know the other things I've tried for getting tape residue off.) If the solvent works you shouldn't have to put any effort into rubbing.

[Wormdiet]

The thing I hate about tape residue is, you never know what solvent will clean it off. I believe people on the board have said that acetone is safe for flute woods. I'd try it first. Next I'd try the high-purity isopropyl alcohol available at the drug store. (I don't think you want to know the other things I've tried for getting tape residue off.) If the solvent works you shouldn't have to put any effort into rubbing.

Thanks, I will try those suggestions.

[Denny]

...might want to search first, I think that there are discoloration caveats, etc.

[chas]

...might want to search first, I think that there are discoloration caveats, etc.

Yeah, I meant to suggest that. I haven't tried it. To help searching, I think the context in which I've seen it is the superglue treatment for those who are allergic.

[George]

I'd just use standard woodwind bore oil, it's not going to hurt the wood and it always got sticky stuff off when I played pipes.

-George

[Tommy]

I'd just use standard woodwind bore oil, it's not going to hurt the wood and it always got sticky stuff off when I played pipes.

-George

That seems like a good choice to me. But before I put oil on it....I have removed tape residue by rubbing with my thumb. Pushing from the outer edge to the middle of it than do the same from the other side. Most of it will roll up on it self so you can get a hold of it. Wrap a piece of cotton t shirt around your thumb and rub. If the residue is sticky the cotton fibers will help it to roll into something you can get a hold of.

[Cynth]

Tommy has a good point if the residue is still sticky. Anything that actually dissolves the residue may wash it into the wood. I don't know if the bore oil dissoves it or just sort of softens it and makes the wood slick so the residue can't stick. But getting as much as possible off by mechanical means (without doing anything that would mar the surface of the wood---rub very gently, let time do the work, not pressure) before trying chemical methods is a good idea. Then if the residue does dissolve and sink into the wood you will have minimized the amount. I would really hesitate to use a solvent of any kind on valuable wood. The oil sounds safer to me.

[Lambchop]

Olive oil or something else kitcheny (like flute oil!) should do it. Might need to let it sit a bit. Apply and rub or scrape the residue with a fingernail.

A bit of Goo-Gone on a Q-tip applied sparingly to the surface of the more resistant residue should soften it enough to lift off.

[Loren]

As Charlie mentioned, different types of tape residue may require different solvents. If oil alone won't remove the residue, other options, from least to more harsh are: Turpentine, paint thinner, and acetone. The latter two will typically lighten the wood, but a good oiling will usually restore the area, or nearly so, to the color of the surrounding wood. HOWEVER: Some makers dye their Grenadilla (blackwood) to make it darker, in which case you are unlikely to get the color completely back with oiling.

Loren

[chas]

HOWEVER: Some makers dye their Grenadilla (blackwood) to make it darker. . .

Please tell me this only happens in Pakistan (and now China)! What a bizarre notion -- new blackwood is lovely stuff, especially looked at really closely under bright light. It looks as though the grain stops a few mm below the surface. Of course, once it darkens with age that's almost completely gone. I would think the same would be true if it were dyed or stained.

[Blayne Chastain]

this might be of interest.

http://www.woodwind-shop.com/bassoonprocedures.html

Best,

[AaronMalcomb]

What make of chanter?

Screech and Loren's suggestions sound like safe bets. Naill sends bottles of Danish oil with their new pipes so that would be a safe oil to use and cut with solvents as suggested. Turpentine should be strong enough. I just cleaned a gunked up, plastic chanter with the neatsfoot/turpentine solution I use when cutting a GHB reed down for border pipes. It removed the tape residue quite nicely.

Cheers,
Aaron