Seasoning of wood for pipes

[Elmek]

A simple question for the makers on the Forum !

Given that pipes are going all over the world how do you check how well seasoned your timber is for a particular climate ?

[David Lim]

Given that no makers have replied yet, here's something from a non maker. (It may stir up a reply or two).

A lot of (if not all) makers will initially, partially bore and turn chanters etc. allowing the wood to dry as thoroughly as possible before a final reaming, shaping, etc. Some may even use drying cabinets.

Relative humidity of 10-12% is often quoted (in the UK) for furniture in a modern (centrally heated) environment. A meter can bought to measure this (not the sort that measures atmospheric humidity). Another option is drying to constant weight.

No matter how well seasoned a piece of wood is it will still change it's dimensions if it's environmental conditions change, the main factor being humidity. Also some woods are more unstable than others. If the instrument is going somewhere with very unusual conditions it may be best to have it made locally, if possible.

Luckily shrinkage does not affect chanter length very much and if the maker is astute they will position the holes on the grain in such a way as to minimise (but not eliminate) hole size shrinkage.

David

[Elmek]

Thanks David

Obviously a delicate subject as none of makers have offered a reply

[djm]

My simple understanding of it is that makers will purchase kiln-dried wood and then hold onto it for as long as possible (years) to ensure it is stable enough to be worked and stay as true to shape as possible. As David has mentioned, the wood is worked a bit at a time, and then left to cure and harden for weeks at a time between cuttings. From what I have read, wood will continue to expand and contract with heat and humidity for many years, but over time, the degree to which it reacts will lessen.

djm

[ausdag]

My simple understanding of it is that makers will purchase kiln-dried wood and then hold onto it for as long as possible (years) \
djm

I may be wrong but I understand it is better to purchase air-dried wood rather than kiln-dried and store it. Make sure the ends are dipped in wax to prevent the moisture escaping at too fast a rate through the end-grain.

I'm starting to stock up on different woods to store for when I get into pipemaking 5 or so years down the track.

Cheers,

DavidG

[djm]

DaveG, consider that the denser the wood (as in the types used for making musical instruments) the longer it takes to dry. You might be holding onto the wood for 10 years or more if you want to only air-dry it. I'm not a pipemaker, but consider that if you're in business, and you get a lot of orders, you cannot afford to tell prospective customers that they will have to wait 10 years for the wood to dry.

djm

[PJ]

I've seen pipes made from 20 year-old ABW. They're jet black. No trace of brown at all.

[ausdag]

DaveG, consider that the denser the wood (as in the types used for making musical instruments) the longer it takes to dry. You might be holding onto the wood for 10 years or more if you want to only air-dry it. I'm not a pipemaker, but consider that if you're in business, and you get a lot of orders, you cannot afford to tell prospective customers that they will have to wait 10 years for the wood to dry.

djm

Depends on how long it has been seasoned for before sale. Many of the exotic timber suppliers here sell air-dried and semi-seasoned timber. If it's been seasoned already for a few years then it won't be as long a wait. That's also why I'm stocking up now. I have no tools yet and it will take a good 5 years before I'm ready to turn expensive timbers for desent pipes, so in the meantime I'll be learning my skill on old broom handles and cheaper hardwoods.

Cheers,

DavidG