Flute Photos!!! Come post your flute pictures :)
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I'm glad to see you all getting a laugh out of my poor old Wood and Ivy flute!
This is how it looks now. I need to someday go out and buy some acid to have the new boxwood pieces stained, of course. I don't drive, and I'd feel a bit weird about getting on the bus with a bottle of nitric acid...
I bought that flute on Ebay for $137! The original seller and source of the first pic was Musical Treasures.com, who wanted $500 for it...I don't know why my seller parted with it for so cheap, other than people just being appalled by the very sight of it for some reason...last night a friend was over and tried all of my (old) flutes. For some reason he didn't bother with this one! The bent wood makes it hard to hold after a while, too, I need to try taping some little blocks of wood on it to see if I can make it more comfortable to play.
The new piece at the bottom of the headjoint corrects the tuning, before the tuning was really horrible! I'd read about funky tuning on English flutes but this was just unlistenable. Also, the fellow who restored mine has an old E. Riley 4-key boxwood flute with a barell piece at the bottom of the headjoint, so I figured a previous owner must have thrown the original on mine off to get an Eb band flute or something.
With the new piece the tuning is fine and the flute plays really sweet and easy. Like the E. Riley it's in C# or thereabouts. Didn't E. Riley also publish some books, Terry? Flute Melodies was one I think.
- chas
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I've finally gotten around to taking and uploading a pic including the recent acquisitions. Bottom to top:
Hammy in cocobolo
Schultz/Thin Weasel in cocobolo
Olwell Rudall-style in boxwood
Olwell Nicholson-style in rosewood (Brazilian, I think)
M&E R&R in Delrin
Bleazey Rudall-style in boxwood
Grinter 8-key in blackwood (my wife's)
nameless 4-key in boxwood, probably c. 1900
Mollenhauer 6-key in boxwood, probably c. 1900
Charlie
Whorfin Woods
"Our work puts heavy metal where it belongs -- as a music genre and not a pollutant in drinking water." -- Prof Ali Miserez.
Whorfin Woods
"Our work puts heavy metal where it belongs -- as a music genre and not a pollutant in drinking water." -- Prof Ali Miserez.
- I.D.10-t
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I assume that those are from bottom to top.chas wrote:Hammy in cocobolo
Schultz/Thin Weasel in cocobolo
Olwell Rudall-style in boxwood
Olwell Nicholson-style in rosewood (Brazilian, I think)
M&E R&R in Delrin
Bleazey Rudall-style in boxwood
Grinter 8-key in blackwood (my wife's)
nameless 4-key in boxwood, probably c. 1900
Mollenhauer 6-key in boxwood, probably c. 1900
Chas, I am sorry it seems that you have not found the right flute for you yet.
Feel assured that if you ever find that right one that I will be willing to relieve
you of some of your past burdens. I would not even impose a fee for finding
a good home for them.
"Be not deceived by the sweet words of proverbial philosophy. Sugar of lead is a poison."
Chas,
How does the hole-spacing of your Olwell Rudall compare to the Olwell Nicholson? (I know the Nicholson has somewhat larger holes. Just wondering about the spacing between holes 5 and 6 in particular.) How would you compare the sound/playability of those two Olwells? Thanks for the info.
Beautiful flutes!
Jeanie
How does the hole-spacing of your Olwell Rudall compare to the Olwell Nicholson? (I know the Nicholson has somewhat larger holes. Just wondering about the spacing between holes 5 and 6 in particular.) How would you compare the sound/playability of those two Olwells? Thanks for the info.
Beautiful flutes!
Jeanie
- chas
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Sven, the long-F does seem a little high off the body on the Grinter. It's the only modern keyed flute I've been around, so I have no idea whether it's normal or not.
Jeanie, the hole sizes are almost the same on the Nicholson- and Rudall-style Olwells. I was a little surprised by this. To see whether it's an optical illusion (light vs dark wood), I just took a couple of (very rough) measurements.
Nicholson: top of LH1 to bottom of LH3: 3"; top of RH1 to bottom of RH3: 2-7/8; diameter LH2: 5/16; RH2: 3/8.
Rudall: top LH1 to bottom LH3: 3-1/16; top RH1 to bottom RH3: 2-15/16; diam LH2: 9/32; diam RH2: 3/8.
I'll point out that on the E holes, the Nich is a generous 3/8, while the Rudall is a scant 3/8. Sorry for the lack of metric measurements; this was a little hurried. One of these days I'll remember to bring some calipers home and take some real measurements of all my keyless flutes.
Jeanie, the hole sizes are almost the same on the Nicholson- and Rudall-style Olwells. I was a little surprised by this. To see whether it's an optical illusion (light vs dark wood), I just took a couple of (very rough) measurements.
Nicholson: top of LH1 to bottom of LH3: 3"; top of RH1 to bottom of RH3: 2-7/8; diameter LH2: 5/16; RH2: 3/8.
Rudall: top LH1 to bottom LH3: 3-1/16; top RH1 to bottom RH3: 2-15/16; diam LH2: 9/32; diam RH2: 3/8.
I'll point out that on the E holes, the Nich is a generous 3/8, while the Rudall is a scant 3/8. Sorry for the lack of metric measurements; this was a little hurried. One of these days I'll remember to bring some calipers home and take some real measurements of all my keyless flutes.
Charlie
Whorfin Woods
"Our work puts heavy metal where it belongs -- as a music genre and not a pollutant in drinking water." -- Prof Ali Miserez.
Whorfin Woods
"Our work puts heavy metal where it belongs -- as a music genre and not a pollutant in drinking water." -- Prof Ali Miserez.
- Doc Jones
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Chas,
I think it's time you took a vacation to beeyootiful Southern Idaho. You can stay at my house if you bring your flutes.
Doc
I think it's time you took a vacation to beeyootiful Southern Idaho. You can stay at my house if you bring your flutes.
Doc
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Want to learn about medicinal herbs?
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Want to become a Clinical Herbalist? Doc's Herb School