100% Tung Oil

OnTheMoor · Post by **OnTheMoor** » Fri Nov 05, 2004 3:46 pm

Thoughts? Maker of the flute suggested it, is almond oil much better or should I get some special flute oil? Thanks.

OnTheMoor · Post by **OnTheMoor** » Fri Nov 05, 2004 3:46 pm

Oh... and what IS Tung Oil?

JessieK · Post by **JessieK** » Fri Nov 05, 2004 3:49 pm

I HATE tung oil. It smells terrrible.

glauber · Post by **glauber** » Fri Nov 05, 2004 4:59 pm

It's the oil from the tung nut, cultivated in China. I like it (it's my favourite wood finish). My wife hates the smell, like Jessie.

I use to get it from http://www.realmilkpaint.com
http://www.realmilkpaint.com/oil.html

Tung oil is a permanent finish, not something you reapply. It's often used by furniture and gun makers, and several flute makers use it too (Eldred Spell and Ralph Sweet come to mind). If something is treated with Tung oil, the only reason to reapply would be to cover up a scratch, for example. That site which i give the URL for has some information.

Jay-eye · Post by **Jay-eye** » Fri Nov 05, 2004 6:07 pm

Tung oil is a yellow drying oil produced from the seed of the tung tree. The seed or nuts of the tung tree are harvested and pressed yielding tung oil. Tung oil finds the most use as an industrial lubricant and drying agent. It is used in paints and varnishes as well as soaps, inks, and electrical insulators. Tung oil is poisonous, containing glycerol esters of unsaturated fats. It is the most powerful drying agent known. It is also used as a substitute for linseed oil in paints, varnishes, and linoleum. It is a waterproofing agent.

YUK!

J.I.

wolvy · Post by **wolvy** » Fri Nov 05, 2004 6:16 pm

Tounge oil? That's the spittle that flows out of the end of the flute when you tounge your ornaments too much!

Jon C. · Post by **Jon C.** » Fri Nov 05, 2004 8:02 pm

Jay-eye wrote: Tung oil is poisonous,
YUK!

J.I.

Hi Jay-eye,
Tung oil is NOT poisonous, on the contrary pure tung oil is "food grade", It can be used on your wood salad bowls.

The thing that is poisonous is the petroleum solvents used in some tung oils, if you get it at the Milk paint supplier, it is food grade.
Tung oil has a nutty smell, but as Jessie says, it STINKS!
If you are looking for a drying oil you can go with a conventional bore oil, but you should let it dry first before tooting on the flute, as it is toxic.
Jon

eilam · Post by **eilam** » Fri Nov 05, 2004 9:23 pm

right Jon, the same goes for linseed oil, you can buy it at a health food store as flax seed oil, or as boiled linseed oil at the hard ware store which has hardeners to reduce the drying time. Tung oil is the most water resistant out of the oil finishes, and does not darken with time like linseed oil.

djm · Post by **djm** » Fri Nov 05, 2004 10:51 pm

I have also read warnings to woodworkers that tung oil is carcinogenic (what isn't?). Either way, there are less questionable oils to use like flaxseed or almond oil from the healthfood store.

djm

Jon C. · Post by **Jon C.** » Fri Nov 05, 2004 11:56 pm

Quote from the Milk Paint site:
Tung oil can be applied pure or with Citrus Solvent added if a non-toxic finish is required. Thinners can accelerate the drying process and greatly improve the penetration by cutting the first coat of oil with Citrus Solvent, mineral spirits or turpentine by 50%. Remember by adding mineral spirits or turpentine, Pure Tung Oil becomes toxic with these substances mixed into it, although the finish produced is not toxic because the driers evaporate.
FDA: Pure Tung Oil is approved for food contact by the FDA. :roll:

As long as you use pure tung oil, it is not carcinogenic. Also it is a drying oil that hardens, not like almond that evaporates and has to be reapplied.
Also, the flaxseed, almond oil will turn rancid and your flute will smell like Winchell donuts!

Jon

Jay-eye · Post by **Jay-eye** » Sat Nov 06, 2004 4:21 am

Pure tung oil is a natural, non-toxic oil which is ideal for all wood surfaces used in food preparation - chopping boards, salad bowl, butchers blocks, etc.

Sorry, my information was wrong

- I remember reading the original warning in a woodturning book, so mebbes the word pure is the significant qualification. I don't think I'll be trying it myself!

I seem to have got on OK with health store Almond Oil or even "pure sweet almond oil" - but I shall be sniffing it for rancidity from now on! :roll:

JessieK · Post by **JessieK** » Sat Nov 06, 2004 7:34 am

I have never had a antural oil go rancid in one of my flutes, and I have always used almond oil, or if I was out of it, even olive.

treeshark · Post by **treeshark** » Sat Nov 06, 2004 8:03 am

These oils are pretty impressive they soak right through an inch or two of teak and then harden, they are proof against sea water; I don't think I'd dare try them on a flute though!
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/ak ... index.html

OnTheMoor · Post by **OnTheMoor** » Sat Nov 06, 2004 8:16 am

Hm.
Can I get thoughts on this,
http://www3.sympatico.ca/rjcox/care.html

talasiga · Post by **talasiga** » Sat Nov 06, 2004 8:44 am

djm wrote:........ there are less questionable oils to use like flaxseed ......

The more polyunsaturates an oil has the more it is likely to go rancid with exposure to heat, light and air. Food grade oil like health food store flaxseed oil is very good for people but it needs to be used up quickly and kept refrigerated when stored. Just because flaxseed is healthy when stored properly doesn't mean it will be healthy once applied to instruments and exposed to heat, light and air.

Almond and olive on the other hand have a very high proportion of monounstaurates which are lot more stable than the polys. To find out the latest word on oils, carcinogens and health check out Udo Erasmus, Canadian nutritionist. Google.