removing stopper during bore oiling

[talasiga]

Thanks for the info, both of you.
Ergo, I have a partially lined head.

[djm]

Okay, flute newbie's turn. So I have an unlined Casey Burns with a tuning slide. Do I disassemble the tuning slide before oiling? What if I can't figure out how to put it back together again? I'm leery of dicking with stuff I don't understand (and that cost so freaking much!). I suppose if I had my stars read I might have a better idea of what to do, but my astrologer is on the far side, or maybe just down and under.

djm

[Whistlin'Dixie]

AAAAAuuuuugggghhhhh!!!!!!!!!!!

NOT....the beautiful......boxwood.....Olwell........ (sob)

NO more photos of it, at least until I have mine!!!

In other news, I don't disassemble the headjoint/barrels, and have never moved a cork. I occasionally oil the partially lined Hammy's head using the standard method, and I also oil the Casey Burns headjoint by using my cloth-on-a-stick ~ very elegant!

Mary

[talasiga]

....
I suppose if I had my stars read I might have a better idea of what to do, but my astrologer is on the far side, or maybe just down and under.

djm

hey!
I have to be in the mood to do astrology.
If I could do it on tap, I would be a millionaire by now.
You are next on the list. Better late than never .............

[Nanohedron]

Okay, flute newbie's turn. So I have an unlined Casey Burns with a tuning slide. Do I disassemble the tuning slide before oiling? What if I can't figure out how to put it back together again? I'm leery of dicking with stuff I don't understand (and that cost so freaking much!). I suppose if I had my stars read I might have a better idea of what to do, but my astrologer is on the far side, or maybe just down and under.

djm

I'd do the disassembly after the oiling procedure's finished (I let the oil applied sit for a while and then swab it with a paper towel wrapped around the swab stick). Then pull apart the slide, wipe the sufaces clean inside and out, and maybe use rubbing alcohol to complete the job. Just keep it off of the wood. Then carefully reassemble the head and barrel if that's how your flute is set up slidewise. Above all, keep the disassembled parts on a secure bedding of something that is soft and won't nick the metal parts or allow them to roll into each other, or onto the floor. Reassembly isn't a big deal; just be gentle and aware of what you're doing.

[harrywhohaa]

Somone told me once that the cork should be set back the length of the headjoint bore diameter from the centre of the blowhole.

Is this true? (it pretty much is in the case of my flute)

[Nanohedron]

Somone told me once that the cork should be set back the length of the headjoint bore diameter from the centre of the blowhole.

Is this true? (it pretty much is in the case of my flute)

Yeah, that's the rule of thumb. In conical bore flutes, the stopper's position will affect the relative tuning of the upper register in my experience, in some designs very noticeably, and in some, not so much. For example, I've found that if the upper register is flat of the lower, moving the stopper inward can correct this, or vice versa as the case may be. My understanding is that the middle ground position is the most ideal for response, though, especially in the lower register. Move the stopper and you make compromises.

I'd like to have some experts address the above comments if I'm coming from any misapprehensions, here.

[wolvy]

OK, I starting this poll, so I guess I should make a comment.

I recently received a new GLP flute from Terry McGee which I love very much. In his instruction sheet on maintanence, he suggests removing the stopper before oiling the flute. I was rather intimidated by this until I finally asked Terry how to remove the stopper. He sent some instructions and I tried it.....it was super easy, even with his "eccentric bore". It is also quite easy to put back in since he has put marks on his flute swabbing rod, so I can position the stopper back to the correct location. The added benefit of removing the stopper is that you can put some cork grease on it to keep it healthy and sealing well.

I can't speak for other flutes, but on the McGee flute I have, the stopper removal is quite easy. I usually pop it out when oiling. It goes back in quite easily as well.

[phcook]

Speaking about Mr. McGee and stopper's position:
http://www.mcgee-flutes.com/Stopper.html
Interesting, as usual.

Best

[djm]

Always go to the source. In my case, this is Casey Burns. I asked him several questions about oiling the head and here is the gist of his reply:

I recommend keeping the slide all together as one piece - if oil gets into the assembly, its no big deal. Dirt on the other hand is. If the slide is pulled apart you will need to wipe off the surfaces, and then apply some slide grease. I recommend the wax used in toilet gaskets (the rings used to seal the toilets to the house plumbing - available at your local hardware store. Also good for thread wax.). The wax helps form a seal. Also leave the stopper in place. I use a small dropper and drop about 1/4 tsp of oil through the ebouchure and rotate the head to spread it. You can use a piece of cloth which you have soaked with oil on the end of a knitting needle to apply oil from the socket end as well, and use this to oil the other joints by pulling the cloth (make sure it is only a couple of inches square) through. For the outside simply oil any wood (the silver doesn't need oiling) exposed and let it soak in for a few moments and then wipe off any excess.

The stopper may get oil but it doesn't really matter either way. If it gets moved or you remove it to oil the headjoint bore or adjust its thread wrapping, it needs to be put back to the correct place such that the inside face is 23mm from the center of the blowhole.

Casey noted that this is what works for his flutes. If your flute maker is still alive and well, he is probably the best person to ask these questions for your own flute.

djm

[glauber]

Cool, he and i use the same brand of thread wax and slide grease!

[sturob]

Yeah, but as DJM says, know thy maker.

Some people intend their slides to be greased, others not . . . Olwell, if I recall correctly, recommends that nothing be put on the slide. I think part of the thinking might be that grease can trap dirt which can cause the slide to seize. Or whatever.

I think of the three flutes I've mentioned, they run the gamut as to what goes on the slide. Olwell == nothing. Grinter == grease. Byrne == graphite. Eh.

Stuart

[glauber]

I think the only reason to put gunk on a slide is if it's too loose. If it works, leave it alone. If it's too tight, try cleaning it with alcohol.

[Jayhawk]

It's funny, partially lined headjoints are always associated with McGee and a few others, but Tal is right on about his Seery - Desi only partially lines, too, even on his polymer flutes.

Eric

[Loren]

Yeah, but as DJM says, know thy maker.

Some people intend their slides to be greased, others not . . . Olwell, if I recall correctly, recommends that nothing be put on the slide. I think part of the thinking might be that grease can trap dirt which can cause the slide to seize. Or whatever.


Stuart

Slides meant to be greased are fit to different tolerances than those intended for a dry fit, so one should definately know what the maker intended. And yes, some (makers) feel that greased slides collect particulate matter that can cause problems - Interestingly enough, the only slides I've ever had get stuck on me, were greased slides, because if the slide isn't moved for a long time, typical cork/slide grease can harden and glue the moving parts together.

Loren