HI to everyone
I brought my metzler to make a complete check
and my flute maker/repairer ask me a fortune to repad it
--200€-- I have repaded my self an old german flute and it sounds great...
How Much should costs repad a flute? (8 keyed)
Frank
Italy
<How Much to repad a wooden flute?>
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radcliff
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Kevin L. Rietmann
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Wombat
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Kevin's perfectly safe. His water pistol isn't loaded.BMFW wrote:You really must stop stealing wine from the supermarket. I've seen an episode of "America's Dumbest Policemen" on Bravo - they will shoot you 42 times for brandishing a loaded water pistol and a bottle of Chateau Neuf du Pape! You have been warned.Kevin L. Rietmann wrote: Wine corks = Free.
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George
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It really depends on your flute's condition, and if the repair tech is doing more than just throwing in new pads.
Say if your Metzler has -
stuck/bent/broken keys/key-pins,
wacky foot keys,
a rough tuning slide,
cracks in need of repair,
seriously tarnished keys,
unlevel or damaged key toneholes,
out of adjustment or broken springs,
I would pay a lot of money to have an instrument that is clean, air-tight, and mechanically working well. But if he's just throwing in new pads, that price seems steep.
Sincerely,
-George
Say if your Metzler has -
stuck/bent/broken keys/key-pins,
wacky foot keys,
a rough tuning slide,
cracks in need of repair,
seriously tarnished keys,
unlevel or damaged key toneholes,
out of adjustment or broken springs,
I would pay a lot of money to have an instrument that is clean, air-tight, and mechanically working well. But if he's just throwing in new pads, that price seems steep.
Sincerely,
-George
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chas
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The estimate sounds high to me, too.
One of these weeks, I'm gonna restore my 6-key Mollenhauer, which needs pads and corks. I've already done a crack in the head. Might put thread on the tenons if I find they won't take the cork properly, but I'm bound and determined to do the pads.
As a stopgap, I wrapped Teflon (PTFE, plumber's) tape around the pads -- it seals well and takes the shape of the pad -- till I get around to repadding. One problem is, it seems that it's reacted with one of the keys. They're either sterling or nickel-copper, presumably, and the tape is turning green, so I suspect something's reacting with copper.
One of these weeks, I'm gonna restore my 6-key Mollenhauer, which needs pads and corks. I've already done a crack in the head. Might put thread on the tenons if I find they won't take the cork properly, but I'm bound and determined to do the pads.
As a stopgap, I wrapped Teflon (PTFE, plumber's) tape around the pads -- it seals well and takes the shape of the pad -- till I get around to repadding. One problem is, it seems that it's reacted with one of the keys. They're either sterling or nickel-copper, presumably, and the tape is turning green, so I suspect something's reacting with copper.
Charlie
Whorfin Woods
"Our work puts heavy metal where it belongs -- as a music genre and not a pollutant in drinking water." -- Prof Ali Miserez.
Whorfin Woods
"Our work puts heavy metal where it belongs -- as a music genre and not a pollutant in drinking water." -- Prof Ali Miserez.
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Kevin L. Rietmann
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Here's the link to the post on the uilleann pipes forum discussing repadding: http://chiffboard.mati.ca/viewtopic.php ... ight=kayak
Here's the text mentioning the foam:
Repadding is the best fix and only takes a couple of hours. Most other "temporary" fixes are less satisfactory. Remove the keys and note each pin direction and location on removal, for block mounted keys. Remove the old pads. Heat will undo pads using shellac to afix them or scrape off the old pads and glue. The best new pad material is to get a small block of closed-cell foam from a whitewater kayak supplier. The foam is used for knee pads in WHITEWATER kayaks (not sea kayaks). Slice off or have someone slice the grey foam into slices of various thicknesses (1/16" to 3/16" +/-) with a band saw. Cut pads from a piece a bit thicker than the originals, as the foam will compress a bit, and glue them on. I use contact cement. These pads will give a long lasting ABSOLUTE seal. Any leaks from any pads should never be tolerated! I used to use slices of earplug foam, but they are a quite soft. I find that this closed-cell foam to be ideal. It is now used in preference to sax pads or other leather pads by a number of pipe and flute makers. I repadded a few antique reg's. with splinters of wood missing which were leaking with leather pads. The foam pads made them absolutely staunch. Before repadding, remove the reg. reeds and blow on the reed end. If there is any leak at all, they should be repadded. Uilleann pipes are never a finished product and are always under construction. Every few months you should do a complete leak check of everything, bag, bellows, connecting hose, end caps etc. They must be air-tight as possible. NO LEAKS. Leaks cause playing problems and are too common but easily fixed.
Ted
Here's the text mentioning the foam:
Repadding is the best fix and only takes a couple of hours. Most other "temporary" fixes are less satisfactory. Remove the keys and note each pin direction and location on removal, for block mounted keys. Remove the old pads. Heat will undo pads using shellac to afix them or scrape off the old pads and glue. The best new pad material is to get a small block of closed-cell foam from a whitewater kayak supplier. The foam is used for knee pads in WHITEWATER kayaks (not sea kayaks). Slice off or have someone slice the grey foam into slices of various thicknesses (1/16" to 3/16" +/-) with a band saw. Cut pads from a piece a bit thicker than the originals, as the foam will compress a bit, and glue them on. I use contact cement. These pads will give a long lasting ABSOLUTE seal. Any leaks from any pads should never be tolerated! I used to use slices of earplug foam, but they are a quite soft. I find that this closed-cell foam to be ideal. It is now used in preference to sax pads or other leather pads by a number of pipe and flute makers. I repadded a few antique reg's. with splinters of wood missing which were leaking with leather pads. The foam pads made them absolutely staunch. Before repadding, remove the reg. reeds and blow on the reed end. If there is any leak at all, they should be repadded. Uilleann pipes are never a finished product and are always under construction. Every few months you should do a complete leak check of everything, bag, bellows, connecting hose, end caps etc. They must be air-tight as possible. NO LEAKS. Leaks cause playing problems and are too common but easily fixed.
Ted
An even simpler method of repadding which I have used with great success is to place a glob of 100% silicone caulk on the removed key. Smooth with a wet finger, let skim over, say 10-15 minutes, gently press key onto hole which you have wiped oil on, let sit for an hour or so and then cut off the nipple that formed from the keyhole with an xacto knife. Nobody believes that a method so simple and cheap works but I can attest that it works perfectly.
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radcliff
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about my flute
Yes my flute has a crack, well two : ( (first into the barrell and the second in the Bb Block)
but he ask me 200 € for repair cracks
and other 200€ for padding 6 of the 8 keys (without work on C and C#)
Maybe He have to build up the padds exactly for my flute so may this explain parts of the problem.He is a good expert for flutes of 1600/1700
so his works are very well known in italy...
it's seems to me that he ask me too much for the pads and may correct for cracks : ) strange joke
I'm going to ask to Thomas Aebi what he thinks and how much he want to make this restoration
Frank
but he ask me 200 € for repair cracks
and other 200€ for padding 6 of the 8 keys (without work on C and C#)
Maybe He have to build up the padds exactly for my flute so may this explain parts of the problem.He is a good expert for flutes of 1600/1700
so his works are very well known in italy...
it's seems to me that he ask me too much for the pads and may correct for cracks : ) strange joke
I'm going to ask to Thomas Aebi what he thinks and how much he want to make this restoration
Frank
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mat
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radcliffe,
Yes that seems extreme!
Repadding is something every player should be able to do themselves anyway.
Try this link for DIY padding kit through the mail etc.
http://www.windcraft.co.uk/windcraft/index.html
I have a 19thC flute with saltspoon keys but find that their leather pads work just fine with a good blob of beeswax behind. It may be worth getting a selection to start and experiment, its what I did.
Quite a bit cheaper than 200euros!
Good luck.
Mat
Yes that seems extreme!
Repadding is something every player should be able to do themselves anyway.Try this link for DIY padding kit through the mail etc.
http://www.windcraft.co.uk/windcraft/index.html
I have a 19thC flute with saltspoon keys but find that their leather pads work just fine with a good blob of beeswax behind. It may be worth getting a selection to start and experiment, its what I did.
Quite a bit cheaper than 200euros!
Good luck.
Mat