I'm glad the Feadog wasn't the first to arrive
- Darwin
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I'm glad the Feadog wasn't the first to arrive
If it had been, or if it had been the only one that I got--which it came close to being, I might have just given up on whistles.
Having two more high Ds (Dixon and Clarke Original) to compare it to tells me that there's something not quite right with this one.
The Dixon and the Clarke play very differently. Each has a range that seems a little weak, requiring more care to avoid funny sounds. The Dixon requires rather low air on the low E and D, while the Clarke is great at that end, but can make funny sounds from the second-octave A and up. Careful playing can make both work, though.
This doesn't seem to be the case with the Feadog that arrived today (when I had hoped to be up in SF for the Low Whistle Fest--a hope derailed by a computer problem and others).
I was pretty happy as I started the scale from the lowest D. For the first 4 notes, it sounded a lot like the Dixon, having a bit of a buzz or burr, where the Clarke tone is very plain (pure?).
Around A or B, I was beginning to have my doubts, and when I shifted to the second octave D, everything fell apart. It shrieks and squawks, but some of the sounds it makes in the second octave aren't as nice as that.
Playing through two octaves to the third-octave D in a single breath is impossible for me, so far. Terrible raspy-gurgly sounds occur quite early, though by a kind of "focused" tongueing, I can get up to about the second-octave G. Nothing in the second octave sounds very nice, and I have to play pretty loud to get anything there, and I'm not sure I can get the second octave A, B, and C# at all. I'll try more tomorrow, when the rest of the family is gone.
I'm pretty sure that it would be a violation of the Geneva Convention to play this whistle in the same room with a PW.
Daniel Bingamon, who appears to be prescient, suggested--several days ago--that if the Feadog turned out to have any little pieces of plastic hanging down in the windway, I should remove them carefully with a exacto knife.
Unfortunately, the fipple is black, and it's hard to make out much detail by my office lights, but I tried putting a small piece of white paper down into the window (is the the term?), to reflect light into the windway, then looked into it from the mouthpiece end, and it all looks quite smooth.
It does look like the sharp edge of the blade may be a tiny bit irregular. I don't have much confidence about attacking *that* with a knife, though.
Any other suggestions about what to look for? Are there other mouthpieces that I could get to stick on the tube? Any chance that removing the mouthpieces and repositioning it could make a difference? The Dixon's playability seems to vary with how far down the mouthpiece is shoved. (I discovered this while trying to tune the Dixon using a digital guitar tuner.)
Darn! I was so happy to have three all-black whistles...
Having two more high Ds (Dixon and Clarke Original) to compare it to tells me that there's something not quite right with this one.
The Dixon and the Clarke play very differently. Each has a range that seems a little weak, requiring more care to avoid funny sounds. The Dixon requires rather low air on the low E and D, while the Clarke is great at that end, but can make funny sounds from the second-octave A and up. Careful playing can make both work, though.
This doesn't seem to be the case with the Feadog that arrived today (when I had hoped to be up in SF for the Low Whistle Fest--a hope derailed by a computer problem and others).
I was pretty happy as I started the scale from the lowest D. For the first 4 notes, it sounded a lot like the Dixon, having a bit of a buzz or burr, where the Clarke tone is very plain (pure?).
Around A or B, I was beginning to have my doubts, and when I shifted to the second octave D, everything fell apart. It shrieks and squawks, but some of the sounds it makes in the second octave aren't as nice as that.
Playing through two octaves to the third-octave D in a single breath is impossible for me, so far. Terrible raspy-gurgly sounds occur quite early, though by a kind of "focused" tongueing, I can get up to about the second-octave G. Nothing in the second octave sounds very nice, and I have to play pretty loud to get anything there, and I'm not sure I can get the second octave A, B, and C# at all. I'll try more tomorrow, when the rest of the family is gone.
I'm pretty sure that it would be a violation of the Geneva Convention to play this whistle in the same room with a PW.
Daniel Bingamon, who appears to be prescient, suggested--several days ago--that if the Feadog turned out to have any little pieces of plastic hanging down in the windway, I should remove them carefully with a exacto knife.
Unfortunately, the fipple is black, and it's hard to make out much detail by my office lights, but I tried putting a small piece of white paper down into the window (is the the term?), to reflect light into the windway, then looked into it from the mouthpiece end, and it all looks quite smooth.
It does look like the sharp edge of the blade may be a tiny bit irregular. I don't have much confidence about attacking *that* with a knife, though.
Any other suggestions about what to look for? Are there other mouthpieces that I could get to stick on the tube? Any chance that removing the mouthpieces and repositioning it could make a difference? The Dixon's playability seems to vary with how far down the mouthpiece is shoved. (I discovered this while trying to tune the Dixon using a digital guitar tuner.)
Darn! I was so happy to have three all-black whistles...
Mike Wright
"When an idea is wanting, a word can always be found to take its place."
--Goethe
"When an idea is wanting, a word can always be found to take its place."
--Goethe
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Oh, you can get a Hoover Whitecap mouthpiece for the Feadóg tube if you want, mine costed me $20, but I don't know how much they go for now. They improve the whistle but a Hoover's tone and a Feadóg's couldn't really be more different. The Whitecap's sound resembles your Dixon more.
I'd personally just get a Clare, but they're not black.
I'd personally just get a Clare, but they're not black.
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I have 4 Feadogs covering 3 generations of mouthpiece design. The only one that's any good is a recent make, red painted one, the rest are junk unless you put on a different mouthpiece.My preference is a Waltons Little Black mouthpiece although that makes it pretty much sound like a Waltons brass whistle, so what's the point?
Anyway if you don't like the whistle it won't hurt to experiment on it. Try shaving the blade slightly, or filling the cavity under the window with wax or blutack. If it doesn't work you still have the tube and can get a new head for it.
Take care, Johnz
Anyway if you don't like the whistle it won't hurt to experiment on it. Try shaving the blade slightly, or filling the cavity under the window with wax or blutack. If it doesn't work you still have the tube and can get a new head for it.
Take care, Johnz
DON'T DRINK SOAP!
KEEP OUT OF EYE!
DILUTE! DILUTE!
OK!
KEEP OUT OF EYE!
DILUTE! DILUTE!
OK!
I've bought several Feadogs over the last 2 years (four recently) and they all sounded bad at first but improved dramatically with just the sticky tack tweak. I like them all now.
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- Cees
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- OutOfBreath
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I've bought two of the new Feadogs recently. One for me and one for my son in law. Mine was playable but a little gnarly in the second octave until I tweaked it a bit.
There wasn't any noticeable flash on mine but I used a bit of 400-grit wet-or-dry paper to just slightly knock the edge off the blade (careful here, more than three or four strokes may be too much). I used the same stuff to slightly bevel the airway and then shoved a bit of poster putty into the cavity under the airway. In a matter of about 30 minutes it went from toy to very playable instrument. For the past six weeks or more I've been picking it up more than even My Burke or Copeland. I'm not saying it's better than those, it's definitely not as clear as the Burke or as commanding as the Copleand -- however, it's quite playable and has a more "traditional" sound then either of the high enders.
I told my son-in-law I'd tweak his too but so far he's happy with it the way it is. It is about like mine started, kind of raspy in the second octave but not terrible.
There wasn't any noticeable flash on mine but I used a bit of 400-grit wet-or-dry paper to just slightly knock the edge off the blade (careful here, more than three or four strokes may be too much). I used the same stuff to slightly bevel the airway and then shoved a bit of poster putty into the cavity under the airway. In a matter of about 30 minutes it went from toy to very playable instrument. For the past six weeks or more I've been picking it up more than even My Burke or Copeland. I'm not saying it's better than those, it's definitely not as clear as the Burke or as commanding as the Copleand -- however, it's quite playable and has a more "traditional" sound then either of the high enders.
I told my son-in-law I'd tweak his too but so far he's happy with it the way it is. It is about like mine started, kind of raspy in the second octave but not terrible.
John
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- skh
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Well, cheapo whistles aren't exactly the kind of goods you send in to the manufacturer for maintenance. Or are you suggesting a conspiracy between the whistle manufacturing and tweaking industries here? I always thought Jerry was a nice guy... but then, he doesn't tweak Feadogs, does he?Wombat wrote:If it ain't broke, you can't make any money fixing or replacing it.
Sonja
Shut up and play.
- peeplj
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My first Feadog wasn't a very good whistle. I have since aquired another, which is actually very similar to my Oak, the main difference being the Oak is a bit softer and has a much clearer tone in the 2nd octave.
If you haven't tried an Oak, that might be something to look into. They are about my favorite of the inexpensive whistles.
--James
If you haven't tried an Oak, that might be something to look into. They are about my favorite of the inexpensive whistles.
--James
- Jerry Freeman
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Hi, Sonja.skh wrote:Well, cheapo whistles aren't exactly the kind of goods you send in to the manufacturer for maintenance. Or are you suggesting a conspiracy between the whistle manufacturing and tweaking industries here? I always thought Jerry was a nice guy... but then, he doesn't tweak Feadogs, does he?Wombat wrote:If it ain't broke, you can't make any money fixing or replacing it.
Sonja
I've been watching this thread with interest. I'm expecting a batch of Mark III Feadogs in the mail Monday or Tuesday. I'll do some prototyping and see how they turn out. If I can come up with predictably good tweaked Feadogs, I will probably offer them. The goal, as with the tweaked Generations, will be to make a whistle that's true to its identity as a Generation or Feadog, but clean playing and clear -- what you would consider close to an ideal example of that kind of whistle.
Best wishes,
Jerry
P.S. I haven't forgotten your project.
- boomerang
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What can i say!
I own 3 feadogs, all play just fine with only the repositioning of the head,
Maybe I was just lucky?
I love the sound of a feadog, to me a slightly rustic sound is appealing, and it works in great for session play,
but i guess everyone has different ideas and opinions,
all of which i respect,
Regards David
I own 3 feadogs, all play just fine with only the repositioning of the head,
Maybe I was just lucky?
I love the sound of a feadog, to me a slightly rustic sound is appealing, and it works in great for session play,
but i guess everyone has different ideas and opinions,
all of which i respect,
Regards David
Never argue with an idiot, they will bring you down to their level then beat you with experience!!