Commercial: Tweaked Shaws now at The Whistle Shop, etc. ...

Jerry Freeman · Post by **Jerry Freeman** » Tue Oct 28, 2003 9:44 am

Thom Larson at www.thewhistleshop.com is now carrying my tweaked Shaws in the key of D. The price is $36.50 plus shipping. He also carries my tweaked Sweetones at $15.00.

I also have tweaked Shaws in the keys of E, Eb (both $36.50), C ($39.50) Bb ($54.50) and A ($59.50), as well as soprano D. The key of A whistles are temporarily out of stock due to a manufacturing problem, but I'll have them again as soon as they're available. In addition to being able to order from www.thewhistleshop.com, you can purchase any of my whistles directly from me by email (delete the extra spamblocker letters and dot in my email address), and some of my whistles are on eBay.

The tweaked Generation project is going very well. I expect to have them for sale in a couple of weeks. I will offer all keys of tweaked Generations except C (impossible to remove the head intact). In the key of C, I'll offer tweaked Waltons, and I will also offer tweaked Waltons Mellow (wide bore) D's.

My heartfelt thanks to all for your friendship and support, and best wishes,
Jerry

P.S. I forgot to mention. I also tweak already owned Shaws for $14.00 plus $3.85 (U.S) postage. International postage will vary according to destination and key of whistle.

cj · Post by cj » Tue Oct 28, 2003 11:24 am

Salivates . . .

don · Post by **don** » Tue Oct 28, 2003 7:54 pm

HOORAY for the champeen whistle tweaker!!
My generations have been waiting for this moment.

Congratulations

raindog1970 · Post by **raindog1970** » Tue Oct 28, 2003 8:23 pm

Do you replace the stock fipple block, or do all Shaws have a windway channel carved into them?
I've never played a Shaw before, but the fipple block shown in the photo would unquestionably be far superior to that of a Clarke original.
By the way, do you have any plans to ever radius the exposed end of the fipple block like Thom Larson does on his tweaked Clarke originals?
That would really be a nice touch, and well worth a few dollars extra.

Jerry Freeman · Post by **Jerry Freeman** » Tue Oct 28, 2003 8:38 pm

raindog1970 wrote:Do you replace the stock fipple block, or do all Shaws have a windway channel carved into them?
I've never played a Shaw before, but the fipple block shown in the photo would unquestionably be far superior to that of a Clarke original.
By the way, do you have any plans to ever radius the exposed end of the fipple block like Thom Larson does on his tweaked Clarke originals?
That would really be a nice touch, and well worth a few dollars extra.

The key of C and higher Shaws have the windway routed into the fipple block like the photo at www.thewhistleshop.com. There's a shiny finish on the wood inside the windway, and the wood is a neutral hardwood, not aromatic like cedar. In my opinion, it's well conceived and well executed, though I do reduce the height of the windway (among other things) in my tweaking scheme. That gives a more focused, richer, less breathy timbre and makes them take a normal amount of air. Bb and lower Shaws have a layer of metal covering the wooden block. There's no difference in the sound or playing of the two different setups that I can hear.

I've been asked before about hollowing out a curve under the beak, but I find the Shaws to be very comfortable just as they are. No one who actually has one has mentioned that. I'm inclined to leave well enough alone.

Although some Clarke Originals are very nice whistles, the Shaw construction is much higher quality. German silver instead of tinplate, etc. Similar kind of sound, but the Shaws are like Clarks only better (after tweaking).

Best wishes,
Jerry

spittin_in_the_wind · Post by **spittin_in_the_wind** » Tue Oct 28, 2003 9:06 pm

Jerry Freeman wrote: There's a shiny finish on the wood inside the windway, and the wood is a neutral hardwood, not aromatic like cedar.

Although some Clarke Originals are very nice whistles, the Shaw construction is much higher quality. German silver instead of tinplate, etc. Similar kind of sound, but the Shaws are like Clarks only better (after tweaking).

Best wishes,
Jerry

This leads me to a question that had been bothering me about these whistles....over time, how well does the wood hold up? It is subject to a huge amount of moisture, and at least in the Clarke, the wood is not high quality. Does this block of wood require replacement after a number of years and if so, how do you go about replacing it in a reasonable manner? I guess this shows my attachment to my tweaked Clarke, since I'm worried about its demise while it's still so young!

Hopefully there will still be "tweakers" when I'm 80, or I will be a sad sad woman.

Robin

Jerry Freeman · Post by **Jerry Freeman** » Tue Oct 28, 2003 10:01 pm

Hi, Robin.

I don't know what wood is used in a Shaw. Cedar is used in Clarke Original, which is a traditional fipple wood. Cedar is the same kind of wood that's used for roof shingles and house siding that doesn't need to be protected from weather. Should last just about forever. Even if the wood in a Shaw isn't as water resistant, there still should be no problem because the wood doesn't stay wet. It dries out between uses, so there shouldn't be any problem with degradation. Not to worry.

Best wishes,
Jerry

CHIFF FIPPLE · Post by **CHIFF FIPPLE** » Wed Oct 29, 2003 3:36 am

Best tweek

Plate them
Nickle is not nice

Zubivka · Post by **Zubivka** » Wed Oct 29, 2003 4:50 am

Stacey may have a great idea here, you know? Since you seem to disassemble the block, a nice little silver 'lectric bath at this level could look nice

Btw, I saw the close-up of the block at The Whistle Shop's.
I wondered what could be your "stage 2" tweak after my "beta-release".
Well of course! How can one alter the path of the high-speed stream, if not by the slope of the block? The mailer is ready...

Jerry Freeman · Post by **Jerry Freeman** » Wed Oct 29, 2003 7:53 am

"German silver varies in composition, the percentage of the three elements ranging approximately as follows: copper, from 50% to 61.6%; zinc, from 19% to 17.2%; nickel, from 30% to 21.1%. The proportions are always specified in commercial alloys. German silver is extensively used because of its hardness, toughness, and resistance to corrosion for articles such as tableware (commonly silver plated), marine fittings, and plumbing fixtures."

Stacey, I seriously doubt there's any reason for concern about the nickel content of German silver. If German silver is allowable for plumbing fixtures and tableware (the silver plating wears off and the underlying metal is exposed on much of this tableware) where the potential for actual ingestion of traces of the metal are much higher than from a whistlehead, I'm willing to conclude there's not a significant safety concern.

Best wishes,
Jerry

P.S. Zoob et al., I don't disassemble the block.

Jerry Freeman · Post by **Jerry Freeman** » Wed Oct 29, 2003 8:04 am

Zubivka wrote:I wondered what could be your "stage 2" tweak after my "beta-release".
Well of course! How can one alter the path of the high-speed stream, if not by the slope of the block? The mailer is ready...

There are two tweaking details I've added since I sent your whistle, Zoob (for those who are following this, Zoob's is one of the first ones I shipped).

1. I've found that the very slightest bevel (1/32" is enough) chiseled onto the window end of the block dramatically strengthens the bottom two notes and releases (I can't think of a better word) the voice generally, and

2. Sharpening the soundblade to a knife edge tends to strengthen and sweeten the upper register.

Best wishes,
Jerry