dry weather piping
- j dasinger
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dry weather piping
Hi all,
I am looking for some advice on how to keep pipes playable in dry, hot conditions. In my town today , the high was 98F (36C) with the worst humidity of the day being 9%. At night the coolest temperature was 60F (16C) with the best humidity being 75%.
I have seen two general schools of thought on this. One is to regulate the atmosphere around the pipes using humidifiers. The other is to make "dry weather" reeds or otherwise acclimate the pipes to the dryness. I'm partial to the second idea, if it's possible, because I can't see dragging a humidifier to a session, althought I suppose I could drop water into the bellows or bag. Anyway, what do you all think?
JD
I am looking for some advice on how to keep pipes playable in dry, hot conditions. In my town today , the high was 98F (36C) with the worst humidity of the day being 9%. At night the coolest temperature was 60F (16C) with the best humidity being 75%.
I have seen two general schools of thought on this. One is to regulate the atmosphere around the pipes using humidifiers. The other is to make "dry weather" reeds or otherwise acclimate the pipes to the dryness. I'm partial to the second idea, if it's possible, because I can't see dragging a humidifier to a session, althought I suppose I could drop water into the bellows or bag. Anyway, what do you all think?
JD
- Lorenzo
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Here's one link posted earlier last year (or New Years) on the subject of dry climate reeds. I'm sure you'll find a lot more using "search."
http://chiffboard.mati.ca/viewtopic.php ... dity#84306
http://chiffboard.mati.ca/viewtopic.php ... dity#84306
- Patrick D'Arcy
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Yo Jim,
Your best bet is to have reeds made in a similar climate. Who made your pipes?
Another alternative is to use a humidifier. AVOID the warm mist or vortex (the one with an electric fan in it) varieties. The note the fan's drone can often be different to the note your pipes are tuned to and the warm mist one will make you sweat like a slug! The best one I've seen is by Sunbeam and is one of the ultrasonic variety. A little disc vibrates under the water causing it to vapourize and waft up into the air. This is only effective in a reasonably sized room.
Here are some links to ones that look good/similar:
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/ ... nnpipesobs
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/ ... nnpipesobs
http://www.pricegrabber.com/search_getp ... fd06a8086b
http://www.medfinity.com/product_detail_info.asp?ID=66 - very cooll!!
Also eBay has a selection at what are currently very cheap prices:
http://search.ebay.com/search/search.dl ... sicSearch=
I forgot to mention also that you're local drug store should be able to get one for you if they don't already stock them.
Hope that helps,
Patrick.
Your best bet is to have reeds made in a similar climate. Who made your pipes?
Another alternative is to use a humidifier. AVOID the warm mist or vortex (the one with an electric fan in it) varieties. The note the fan's drone can often be different to the note your pipes are tuned to and the warm mist one will make you sweat like a slug! The best one I've seen is by Sunbeam and is one of the ultrasonic variety. A little disc vibrates under the water causing it to vapourize and waft up into the air. This is only effective in a reasonably sized room.
Here are some links to ones that look good/similar:
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/ ... nnpipesobs
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/ ... nnpipesobs
http://www.pricegrabber.com/search_getp ... fd06a8086b
http://www.medfinity.com/product_detail_info.asp?ID=66 - very cooll!!
Also eBay has a selection at what are currently very cheap prices:
http://search.ebay.com/search/search.dl ... sicSearch=
I forgot to mention also that you're local drug store should be able to get one for you if they don't already stock them.
Hope that helps,
Patrick.
Last edited by Patrick D'Arcy on Thu Jun 26, 2003 12:20 pm, edited 2 times in total.
- Pat Cannady
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- Patrick D'Arcy
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- magroibin
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Living in Canada poses it's own reed problems but here the dry weather comes with extreme cold. In the summer the heat also brings high humidity.
The solution I use myself is to oil my chanter reeds with neatsfoot oil. This process has it's pros and cons but for me the benefits far outweigh the costs.
I let the reed sit upside down in the oil but not far enough to get any oil on the wrapping (if you do then dry with paper towel and rub the thread with wax get rid of any oil). I used to let the reed sit over night but found that is actually a bit too long and it over saturates the cane. A few hours is all you really need.
The downside is that once you start to oil a reed you have to keep doing it on a regular basis (every 2-4 months or so seems good). Also the oil is a little bit sticky and bits of fluff can get stuck in the reed. This happens to untreated reeds also and some people will use a small feather to clean. I find blowing through the bottom of the staple often does the trick to remove fluff.
The other thing to note is that right after oiling your reed will not sound! You have to let the air flow through it for a few minutes then it will start to vibrate as normal. This is probably due to small drops of oil between the blades whose surface tension holds the blades together. Letting the air pass through gets rid of the excess oil.
The upside is that the oil acts as a humidity "shock absorber", slowing down the effects of dryness or excess humidity. Extremes of climate may require more frequent oiling.
But to be honest I couldn't perform year round here in Ontario, Canada without the use of oiled reeds.
Paul G.
The solution I use myself is to oil my chanter reeds with neatsfoot oil. This process has it's pros and cons but for me the benefits far outweigh the costs.
I let the reed sit upside down in the oil but not far enough to get any oil on the wrapping (if you do then dry with paper towel and rub the thread with wax get rid of any oil). I used to let the reed sit over night but found that is actually a bit too long and it over saturates the cane. A few hours is all you really need.
The downside is that once you start to oil a reed you have to keep doing it on a regular basis (every 2-4 months or so seems good). Also the oil is a little bit sticky and bits of fluff can get stuck in the reed. This happens to untreated reeds also and some people will use a small feather to clean. I find blowing through the bottom of the staple often does the trick to remove fluff.
The other thing to note is that right after oiling your reed will not sound! You have to let the air flow through it for a few minutes then it will start to vibrate as normal. This is probably due to small drops of oil between the blades whose surface tension holds the blades together. Letting the air pass through gets rid of the excess oil.
The upside is that the oil acts as a humidity "shock absorber", slowing down the effects of dryness or excess humidity. Extremes of climate may require more frequent oiling.
But to be honest I couldn't perform year round here in Ontario, Canada without the use of oiled reeds.
Paul G.
- j dasinger
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thanks everyone for the advice so far.
glands, good suggestion. however, my Commander for some reason doesn't think the unsuitable reed climate is a good reason to transfer me. Philistine! Oh well, a mere 300 days to go...
patrick, thanks for all the links. a bit above and beyond the call, but thanks!
Well, being really enamoured of the KISS principle, I was wondering if there was any good reason not to just toss some water or an ice cube into the bellows? I figure I can keep the pipes stored with a damp sponge or something while they are in the case. Then use the water in the bellows for if I go to a session or something and the reeds start to get too dry. I know this probably won't exactly be healthy for my bellows, but I don't think it would be immediately fatal. Can anyone think of a reason why this is a really bad idea? Lorenzo listed some ways to tell if the reeds are drying out in the old thread on this subject. How would I know if the reeds were getting too moist? If I'm going to be dumping water into the system, I figure thats a possibility. Anyway, thanks everyone. It's been informative so far.
james
P.S. my pipes are a Hughes half-set, about three years old, that until tuesday, used to live in Ontario.
glands, good suggestion. however, my Commander for some reason doesn't think the unsuitable reed climate is a good reason to transfer me. Philistine! Oh well, a mere 300 days to go...
patrick, thanks for all the links. a bit above and beyond the call, but thanks!
Well, being really enamoured of the KISS principle, I was wondering if there was any good reason not to just toss some water or an ice cube into the bellows? I figure I can keep the pipes stored with a damp sponge or something while they are in the case. Then use the water in the bellows for if I go to a session or something and the reeds start to get too dry. I know this probably won't exactly be healthy for my bellows, but I don't think it would be immediately fatal. Can anyone think of a reason why this is a really bad idea? Lorenzo listed some ways to tell if the reeds are drying out in the old thread on this subject. How would I know if the reeds were getting too moist? If I'm going to be dumping water into the system, I figure thats a possibility. Anyway, thanks everyone. It's been informative so far.
james
P.S. my pipes are a Hughes half-set, about three years old, that until tuesday, used to live in Ontario.
- AlanB
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[quote="j dasinger"]
How would I know if the reeds were getting too moist? .
james
quote]
Pitch flattens, back D sinks, 8ve may squeak, 8ve will not hold well, most notes sink under pressure, tone becomes "wooly". That's a bit like when it's too dry. Eeee, you just can't win. A well known piper moistens his with his lips. I guess a little and often....
Alan
How would I know if the reeds were getting too moist? .
james
quote]
Pitch flattens, back D sinks, 8ve may squeak, 8ve will not hold well, most notes sink under pressure, tone becomes "wooly". That's a bit like when it's too dry. Eeee, you just can't win. A well known piper moistens his with his lips. I guess a little and often....
Alan
- j dasinger
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- brianc
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"Your best bet is to have reeds made in a similar climate. "
Patrick D'Arcy
..............
Jim,
In my opinion, Patrick's advice is your only choice, provided you want some long-term success.
I, too, am in a very dry climate, and the reed that I'm currently using was made here in Colorado, and it hasn't been touched in 2 1/2 years. I've never been able to say that about any other reeds - (and believe me, there have been a few).
Stay tuned,
Brian
Patrick D'Arcy
..............
Jim,
In my opinion, Patrick's advice is your only choice, provided you want some long-term success.
I, too, am in a very dry climate, and the reed that I'm currently using was made here in Colorado, and it hasn't been touched in 2 1/2 years. I've never been able to say that about any other reeds - (and believe me, there have been a few).
Stay tuned,
Brian
- Lorenzo
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My AlanB reed was made in England (blind-he never had the chanter) and it's the best reed anywhere . My 3 BK reeds were made in Vermont and play almost equally as well. And my climate is very dry in Eastern Washington (sage brush and sand - 1/2 hr. from the Columbia River though) 100 deg. today (76 deg. inside my new house -and no air cond....I just insulated the heck out of it) and my reeds are working great, literally great...21% humidity and no humidifier. (too hot to work outside so I'm playing the pipes, playing the computor, and sipping ice water)
Hey...I see Paddy Keenan is playing for a couple of weeks or so in Las Vegas June 27-July 11 at The New Yorker Casino, billed with The Nine Fine Irishmen. I'd love to see how that reed performs!
Hey...I see Paddy Keenan is playing for a couple of weeks or so in Las Vegas June 27-July 11 at The New Yorker Casino, billed with The Nine Fine Irishmen. I'd love to see how that reed performs!