Are Tubes Really 'The Easy Part'?

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raindog1970
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Are Tubes Really 'The Easy Part'?

Post by raindog1970 »

I've been retrofitting factory made 13mm (Eb & D) tubes for a while now, and I think it's time to take the plunge and start making complete whistles.
I've been told by several people that tubes are the easy part... it's the mouthpieces that are difficult to master.
From recent threads posted here, I think maybe I have taken a backwards approach to whistle making... it would seem that everyone else starts with the tube.
Oh well, if I were a normal whistle maker, it would be the first time I was ever normal about anything! :lol:
I have the necessary tubing coming in tomorrow evening to make my head design out of 3/4" stock instead of my usual 1/2" heads.
If I'm correct, this should allow me to make whistles down to maybe low F, which I plan to attempt during Easter vacation.
I'll get some 1" tubing and go lower if this weekend's project goes well, but that has yet to be seen.
So tell me, is it true that tubes are the easy part, or am I in for countless more hours of R&D before I get it right?
Regards,
Gary Humphrey

♪♣♫Humphrey Whistles♫♣♪

[Raindogs] The ones you see wanderin' around after a rain. Ones that can't find their way back home. See the rain washes off the scent off all the mail boxes and the lamposts, fire hydrants. – Tom Waits
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Post by Jack »

I made a mouthpiece yesterday. I cut a slit into a piece of cane, and super glued a piece of angled pop bottle to it for a blade, and if I blew *really* softly I got a sound to come from of it. I don't think it's hard to make a mouthpiece/fipple....I think it's hard to make a good one. :/
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Daniel_Bingamon
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Post by Daniel_Bingamon »

1" tubing is a bit large unless your making something lower than Low-C.

7/8" OD copper type-L copper tubing is a good material for making fipples.
Also, 3/4" Schedule 40 PVC pipe is good possibility.

For a Low-F, 5/8" to 3/4" ID tubiing would be a good size.

If you have thinwall brass tubing, Radio Shack makes a nibbling tool that makes cutting notches in the tubing very easy.
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Post by msheldon »

Of my current whistles, the tubing is:

High D: 5/8" OD
Mezzo A: 3/4" OD
Low G: 7/8" OD
Low F: 7/8" OD
Low D: 1" OD
Bass Bb: 1-1/4" OD

These are from multiple makers, Dixon, Chieftain, Water Weasel, Syn.
Michael Sheldon
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Post by CHIFF FIPPLE »

Cranberry wrote:I made a mouthpiece yesterday. I cut a slit into a piece of cane, and super glued a piece of angled pop bottle to it for a blade, and if I blew *really* softly I got a sound to come from of it. I don't think it's hard to make a mouthpiece/fipple....I think it's hard to make a good one. :/

Now you have got it! well done keep going.

If you get the barrel wrong you get notes wrong. If you get the Head WRONG yer get NOWT. 8)
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rbm
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Post by rbm »

so thats why my celler looks like a plumbing shops reject bin :D
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Post by brewerpaul »

If you're talking about wooden whistles, the tube is definitely NOT the easy part!
I start out with a 1x1x12" piece of very hard wood, and have to end up with a .65" OD tube with an ID of .5"-- pretty thin. Getting there includes boring a 7" deep hole which can't wander much at all. Then you have to let the pieces sit to stabilize for over a month, turn the outside down to final exacting diameter, sand with various grades of very fine sandpaper, apply sealer, sand some more, and then apply the finish ( several coats, applied to the spinning piece on the lathe). The whole process is prone to disaster at nearly every step up to the sanding part. Definitely not the easiest thing in the world ( but a lot of fun too!).
Got wood?
http://www.Busmanwhistles.com
Let me custom make one for you!
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Post by Groovehead »

In building my whistles, I think the hardest part is in the final voicing of the whistle. Usually the tubes aren't very difficult (I'm not working with wood... yet... maybe oneday when I'm feeling VERY daring...) The hole spacing and diameters are critical, but by either underboring them or boring them just a little more toward the end of the whistle (maybe 1mm) and then filing them in, it's not very hard...

Granted I've only worked with metal a few times out of curiousity, but I don't think it would be that much more difficult than plastic... ;)
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Post by serpent »

The experience of Serpent Music: I began from scratch, researching commercial whistles, building some from the Web and from books, and finally deciding to design my own, completely. Here are the discoveries I made:

Making a head that works is pretty easy.
Making one that works well is quite a bit harder.
Making one that works well and takes a reasonable amount of air is downright daunting.
Making one that works well, takes a reasonable amount of air, and sounds good begins to approach the impossible.
Doing all of that in a production environment without machine tools (metal or wood) or injection molding equipment (plastics) is very shaky, indeed.

To see some of the steps you need to go through to make whistles, head and all, in production, go to Stacey O'Gorman's site at:
http://www.albawhistles.com and follow the "whistle making" link.

To see some of my forming tools and equipment,
http://www.serpentmusic.com/toolmaker and view the jpeg files. The solid looking aluminum blocks are the dies I use to form and set the blade on the whistle - I have 4 different sizes (OD) 9/16, 5/8, 3/4, and 1 inch.

First, two 3/4" thick aluminum blocks are matched up and drilled through and tapped to accept 1/4-20 cap screws. The blocks are then bolted together and sides are milled square and true. Placed in a drill press, I drill down the center, between the two blocks, to the needed diameter less 1/64 inch (to clamp the tube). I then mill a rectangular slot at 90 deg to that, centered, to be the guide for the blade punch.

The blade punch is milled from HSS drill stock, using cobalt end mills.

The die and punch are then assembled and operated using a 2-ton arbor press. Once the required depth has been determined and scribed on the punch body, a steel stop block is welded to the punch, allowing 0.020" extra travel. The travel is then adjusted to the proper point with shims fastened to the die. This allows for the use of the same punch-and-die set on different thicknesses of material.

I'm in the middle of putting together a set of Web videos showing the process of whistlemaking by me, including making the tools, milling the curved windway, and turning the tuning slide. That's an extended project that will likely take until the end of the summer to complete. Meanwhile, if you have any questions of me, please don't hesitate to email or PM me.

Cheers, best wishes on your venture! :D
serpent
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