Bracker Whistle Tour 2013

[Sirchronique]

I'd prefer a bit more back pressure. The top end is a bit touchy

What do you mean by this?

[AngelicBeaver]

Those two statements weren't really meant to go together, although I suppose they are related. I like a bit more back pressure in my whistles. On a low backpressure whistle, such as this one, I usually find that the upper octave feels harder to control because the whistle isn't pushing back at all. For me, the back pressure gives me a greater sense of control. It's a very personal, tactile thing, I guess. Like having a steering wheel of a car have no resistance when you turn it, vs. one that has some resistance: the second is easier to keep steady.

I found that I had more trouble in the upper octave with it sounding harsh or kicking into the alternate harmonic reality thing that whistles do, where an E really isn't an E when it's a B, if you follow. Again, if I made it my primary whistle, I feel like that's where I'd see the most improvement as I got used to the whistle. I liked it a little better than my Chieftain V3, and it seems better than the MK, although I didn't play that one as long.

The first octave was always pleasant. Each time I pick up the whistle and play a bit, I think, "Wow, the first octave is better than I remembered." Great tone.

I think that having your ring finger covering the bottom hole when trying to play the top end B causes the high B to destabilize a bit, and if you're only just giving it enough air to sound, it will drop back into the second octave. My MK Pro did this. Again, it's a matter of getting used to the whistle.

[Mikethebook]

I really want to try these whistles. I hope there can be a UK tour sometime soon.

[hans]

I think that having your ring finger covering the bottom hole when trying to play the top end B causes the high B to destabilize a bit, and if you're only just giving it enough air to sound, it will drop back into the second octave. My MK Pro did this. Again, it's a matter of getting used to the whistle.

Yes, XOO OOX is not right for high B.
Use XOO OOO or try XOO XXX (a little flatter but more stable and needs less push).

Thanks for the review and the video, must be the first on U-tube with Bracker whistles!

[trill]

Greetings,

Here are my impressions of the Bracker whistles currently on tour (Low-D, Low-D with c-nat thumbhole, high-D)

Loud Low-D's
These Low-D's are among the loudest I've played. They'd be great for playing outdoors. I think the barrier-walls around the window probably give it some immunity to wind gusts.

Lightest Low-D
These Low-Ds are the lightest I've played. My kitchen scale says 167g. Being light is a real advantage when playing or practicing for more than a half hour. It's simply much easier on the hands and fingers. Being light is another plus for playing outside, say, walking around for an afternoon at a Renn Fair.

Sound
These whistles have a clear and pure timbre. I would rate them as quite low on the "turbulent-hiss" scale. Some like the hiss. Some don't.

Low Backpressure
These low-D's have a very low backpressure. Consequently, they take lots of air, especially in the second octave. Also, they demand an assertive starting breath flow.

Tone Holes
The low-D head came with two barrels. 1 barrel had in-line holes, the other had offset holes. For me, the inline holes were easier. I must say though, that I think inline v. offset is very person-specific.

High D
Lovely little whistle. Similar clear and pure tone to the low-Ds.

Craftsmanship+Materials
These are fine instruments. There's obvious care given to finish and quality. Choice of aluminum for the barrels gives them their light weight. These whistles use what-appears-to-be cork for the tuning slide. One of them was a little stiff to attach+remove. The low-D mouthpiece has some very nice ornamental sculpting around the windway and barrier-walls.

Many thanks, Hans, for putting your whistles on tour !

trill

[hans]

thanks trill for trying out the whistles and for you review!

what-appears-to-be cork is called Techcork, and is a compound of cork and synthetic rubber, which makes it quite tough and suitable for the rather thin layer for the slide (ca. 0.5mm). It is used in the musical instrument industry. If a joint appears to be too stiff, perhaps it needs some cork grease?

trill, did you try to blow the low D more softly? I am puzzled with your assessment that because of low backpressure the whistle demands lots of air, and an assertive starting breath flow. If you push for loudness you need more air, but you can also play with less air, more softly. And I cannot observe that the whistle demands an assertive starting breath flow. Many people trying my low whistles remark how easy the tone comes, as if the whistle plays itself. And how easy and smooth the transition to a second octave note is, requiring no extra push to start the note.

[maki]

I'm next up on the whistle tour.
A total of 5 whistle are expected on my door step in a day or two.

[trill]

Hi Hans,

perhaps it needs some cork grease?

I thought about adding some cork grease. But, since I didn't know what the material was, I was afraid of a possible bad reaction. I didn't want to risk gumming it up. I should have just emailed you with a query. Mea culpa, I had 5 tour whistles whistles to try out that week.

I am puzzled with your assessment that . . .the whistle demands lots of air . . .

My comment on "taking air" comes from playing tunes I'm familiar with and seeing where (how often) I need to take a breath.

. . . and an assertive starting breath flow.

My comment on "assertive start" comes from both trying cold-starts up and down the octaves, and playing tunes that start in the second octave. What I found is that if I missed the starting airflow on the low side, I'd get a start-up transient. I'm sure I simply wasn't fully acclimated to it yet.

My "assertive start" comment is a relative one. The low-D's I'm accustomed to playing simply take less air. They're what I'm used to. If I bought one of yours (which, funds permitting, I'd like to do someday), it's something I'd have to practice and get used to.

trill

[hans]

Thanks for clarifying that!

I should add that it is possible to make a custom low D with less air demand and reduced volume, if one wishes. To do so I would make the head with a narrower windway and window.

[Tunborough]

I should add that it is possible to make a custom low D with less air demand and reduced volume, if one wishes. To do so I would make the head with a narrower windway and window.

The other ways that I know of to reduce air demand are reducing the windway height, reducing the windway length (so it jumps to the second octave with less air speed), or reducing the height of the ears on the window (again, it jumps to the second octave with less air). Barring trade secrets, do you have any public comments, Hans, about the tradeoffs of the different approaches? Do they all lead to similar reduction in volume for a given reduction in air demand?

[farmerjones]

US here, just saw this and just sent you an email!

[hans]

I should add that it is possible to make a custom low D with less air demand and reduced volume, if one wishes. To do so I would make the head with a narrower windway and window.

The other ways that I know of to reduce air demand are reducing the windway height, reducing the windway length (so it jumps to the second octave with less air speed), or reducing the height of the ears on the window (again, it jumps to the second octave with less air). Barring trade secrets, do you have any public comments, Hans, about the trade-offs of the different approaches? Do they all lead to similar reduction in volume for a given reduction in air demand?

Thanks for your thoughts! You probably know more about this than me! The design I follow, by utilising tubes of aluminium of various diameters and thickness, is restricted in some ways, especially in making substantial changes in the windway height, which is chiefly determined by the wall thickness of the main tubing. I cut the windway wider at the tip than at the exit, which should eliminate drag. I find the extra window wall depth, achieved with a 'box', is important for a more solid and powerful tone, which is especially important for the low end. This leaves variation of the windway and window width as the main method of reducing air demand. Oh, we forgot to mention the window width to length ratio. Reducing the length (distance from windway exit to labium) relative to the width would make the second octave more accessible. But it also changes the tonal character. Reducing it too far would make the whistle sound much like a recorder I think. So I have been sticking to the same ratio for all my whistles (2:1), which I am quite happy with. But every maker has a different approach on this, contributing to the wide diversity in tonal characteristics among whistle makers.

[hans]

US here, just saw this and just sent you an email!

The whistles are currently entering California, then will go further up the West Coast. I add you to the list. Thanks for wanting to participate in this tour!

[maki]

My review of the Bracker Whistles-

As I wrote elsewhere, I'm still pretty new at whistles, two plus years on high whistles and 6 months or so on lows.
Previous experts have given great reviews on all of the technical particulars, and since
I'm weak in that area I'll give that a pass. My focus will be the impressions of a beginner.

It took me a little while to get used to the Bracker Low D.
I have dry skin made worse by my dirty job and frequent hand washing, and while
my hands are large the fingers are somewhat thin. This caused some initial squeaks
until I moisturized and focused on good coverage of the holes.
This was my main hang-up and obviously it’s a personal issue.
Once beyond this, I got the whistle singing!
This whistle has honking low notes that speak with authority. Think Cosmic Drain Pipe at its best.
The upper octave needs a bit of a push but wasn't hard even for one of my low skill level.
I was particularly pleased that clogging was never an issue.
Condensation would simply blow out but the whistle never sounded the least bit constricted.
I mean never.
Any whistle sounds better warmed up but seems less of an issue with the Bracker.
Start playing and it goes.

Hans sent two tubes with the head.
One inline hole tube and an one offset hole tube with a Cnat thumb hole.
I'm used to inline holes and that was the tube I preferred on this set.
The Cnat thumb hole was a surprise for me. It was perfect and I really enjoyed
this feature. I found it clear, strong and nimble. I don’t have any whistles with this feature,
and like I said, it surprised me how much I took to it.

I learned to love everything about this whistle and contacted Hans to see if I could buying it at the end of the tour.

The high d was also a real winner.
I'd describe it as having good volume, but with the smooth manners and playability of a Sindt.
Looks like there will be multiple Bracker whistles in my future. And I thought I was over WHOAD.

[O'Briant]

Hans, I sent you a pm -- thanks.

O'Briant