How to / Should I fix a hairline crack?

[Akiba]

I have a flute in Ironwood. Through my own stupidity, I believe I've created a hairline crack in the main tenon that connects the headjoint with the body. The flute has the cork in the headjoint instead of on the tenon, so the tenon is just wood. The crack goes most of the way down the tenon but not to the body. It does not seem to affect the playing of the flute. Not sure if I should fix it because the wood is completely smooth and seamless and if I add any glue/substance to seal the crack, it may leave a ridge on the inside or outside of the flute that may in turn adversely affect the flute more than the crack itself.

What should I do? Fix it? If yes, how?

Thanks,

Jason

[jemtheflute]

TALK TO TERRY!!!"

He's readily available by e-mail, if he doesn't chip in here sooner.

I by no means wish to second guess Terry's advice, but IF it were my flute and an old one, no maker to consult, I would be concerned to prevent water getting into the crack more than about the things you mention. I would probably use a sharp knife blade to very circumspectly open the crack a tiny bit at the tenon edge and would run superglue into it, remove the knife-wedge and press it closed (finger pressure would likely suffice) until the glue set, then clean any glue residue off both surfaces with acetone. It might be wise to temporarily bind the body just below the tenon with thread or a cable-tie to ensure the crack doesn't run any further while you open it slightly to admit the glue. This procedure would at least seal the crack and need leave no surface ridging/residues, though it may not be invisible.

BUT ASK TERRY FIRST!

[jim stone]

Within the sensible parameter of Asking Terry,
it's hard to believe a ridge of superglue is going to make a difference to cork,
especially as you can sand it down by the gentle application
of fine sandpaper.

I wonder if Ironwood is prone to cracking? This is the second flute made of it I know of
that has cracked. Just speculating, of course.

[Doug_Tipple]

Within the sensible parameter of Asking Terry,
it's hard to believe a ridge of superglue is going to make a difference to cork,
especially as you can sand it down by the gentle application
of fine sandpaper.

I wonder if Ironwood is prone to cracking? This is the second flute made of it I know of
that has cracked. Just speculating, of course.

Even iron will crack under the right circumstances, so it is no big surprise that ironwood will crack too, especially if it is not cared for properly. I don't know if ironwood may be more prone to cracking than blackwood or other common woods used for making flutes, but it seems to me that Jem's repair method is a sensible fix. I used the same method for repairing a difficult crack on my violin top, and the crack has remained closed for years. I'm guessing that Terry will recommend the same fix. I should add that I didn't wipe off the excess superglue with acetone on the violin top, as acetone would remove the varnish. I put two strips of masking tape on both sides of the crack so that only the crack was exposed. Any excess glue can then be easily wiped off with a paper towel or cotton rag.

[Unseen122]

I wonder if Ironwood is prone to cracking? This is the second flute made of it I know of
that has cracked. Just speculating, of course.

I once had a Bleazy Ironwood that I sold or traded to Doc Jones, at some stage while in transit to him, the head joint cracked.

But on the original topic, yeah defo talk to Terry. My Copley Eb developed three hairline cracks in the right hand joint about three years ago and I sent it to Dave to be fixed. It was back to me in about two weeks and the cracks have been stable ever since, the cost of the repair was also very reasonable. These types of cracks happen and I would guess that most makers are used to dealing with them and it is probably no problem for them to fix up these types of cracks. I wouldn't be surprised if you sent it back to Terry for repair and the total shipping cost turned out to be more than the repair itself.

[Jon C.]

Like Jem said, but I wouldn't bother opening the crack, the glue will penetrate it, as long as the crack is tight. Being that it is a tenon, the esternal pressuse should keep it together.
FYI Cookstown Ironwood more prone to cracking then Blackwood.

[Latticino]

Agree with everything that has been stated earlier. One minor addition, use new aircraft grade glue from a reputable hobby shop or supplier, not department store or big box junk that has been sitting around.

[Doug_Tipple]

If it were me, I wouldn't send the flute from San Francisco to Australia and back again just to repair a simple hairline crack that you could easily fix yourself in a few minutes. If you want someone else to do it, I would send it a couple hundred miles south to Jon Cornia in Los Angeles. My two cents worth.

[Akiba]

Thanks, Blokes.

I did email Terry and he said the crack is probably harmless since it's under compression when assembled.

To fix it, he echoed Jem's advice. Superglue it while it's pried open a little.

Regarding the crack, it's user error (was jamming in a too thick of a dowel to clean out the joint) more than a flaw with the wood, methinks.

[Casey Burns]

There is a minor etiquette issue here. Pardon me while I rant.

If a flute develops a problem, such as this crack, PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE consult with the maker of the flute first (assuming the maker is still around), instead of bringing the problem here for general discussion, which sometimes has the appearance of dragging that maker's name through the mud.

Discussions of cracks or other problems could be seen as a red flag to some to avoid such and such a maker's flutes. Its simply bad advertising for that maker. After such discussions about occasional cracks on my flutes, I've occasionally heard statements such as "Well I have heard that your flutes always crack" etc. Frankly, so do the Rudall and Roses, the Boosey Prattens and the Prowses, whether mounted with cork or threaded tenons. I've seen very few flutes by the above makers that weren't cracked somewhere. Relatively few of mine (or Terry's for that matter) have such problems and I am always available to repair the ones with my name on them that do develop problems.

In a modern context many of the cracks in modern made flutes are due to someone playing the flute in too fast, not paying attention to the tightness of the tenons, not oiling it properly, or simply not being aware of the dryness of their environment. Delrin is perhaps a good material for flutes for people unwilling or unaware enough to take care of wooden flutes properly. Other types of instruments require attention to care and the owners of these do care about their instruments and take steps to protect them. Why should flute players skip this necessary step?

Just some thoughts. Am back in my workshop now after my summer break. Lark Camp was good and the echinoderm nerd conference was just as fun (plus it was nice to be staying in a cabin right on the water in the San Juan Islands (Rosario Marine Lab) for a week. Was easier on the body than the music camp, especially in hours slept)!

Casey