Shopsmith for pipebuilding
- Big Mick
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Once again, in my quest to understand this instrument and it construction, I prevail upon the collective wisdom of this wonderful site.
I am looking into lathes. I keep getting drawn back to the Shopsmith all in one machine. What drew me to it initially is the horizontal boring feature. But the more I look at it, the more I realize it is a very well built, in fact, top quality machine. It seems to have all the features one would use in the construction of pipes. Usually when one buys a multi-function anything, it is not quite up to snuff on anything. That doesn't appear to be the case here.
So tell me, folks, what am I missing? Or am I right in my assessment?
I am looking into lathes. I keep getting drawn back to the Shopsmith all in one machine. What drew me to it initially is the horizontal boring feature. But the more I look at it, the more I realize it is a very well built, in fact, top quality machine. It seems to have all the features one would use in the construction of pipes. Usually when one buys a multi-function anything, it is not quite up to snuff on anything. That doesn't appear to be the case here.
So tell me, folks, what am I missing? Or am I right in my assessment?
All the best,
Big Mick Lane
Big Mick Lane
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- Tell us something.: I used to play pipes about 20 years ago and suddenly abducted by aliens.
Not sure why... but it's 2022 and I'm mysteriously baack... - Location: Surlyville
One of these dudes?
There's also a Yahoo club for them too:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/hobbymachine/messages/1
There's also a Yahoo club for them too:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/hobbymachine/messages/1
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Hi Big Mick
I have seen many Shopsmith demo's and tried one and can say they are one hell of a useful tool, as I'm sure your aware they have a huge number of attachments and uses, including a fabulous bandsaw attachment and the variable speed system is great.
My own views reflect from starting out life as a professional hand turner before taking the plunge into pipes, if you are starting out making pipes or simply wood turning for the first time, the best asthetics/results are definately gained doing them in free hand.
Pipe making does entail a certain amount of metalwork which I also think has the edge when done by hand, a metal lathe comes in handy for the engineering parts like threading and precission parts like valve bodies, but for freedom of expression and those flowing curves, free hand has a definate advantage over a fixed tool post.
Take a look at any modern piece of turned furniture and compare it with an antique piece that was made by hand.
As far as the shopsmith goes, if I could afford one I would have one tomorrow, but you can be rest assured it is definately not a jack of all trades and master of none, it is a very well made machine and up to any job in pipe making today.
Davy.
I have seen many Shopsmith demo's and tried one and can say they are one hell of a useful tool, as I'm sure your aware they have a huge number of attachments and uses, including a fabulous bandsaw attachment and the variable speed system is great.
My own views reflect from starting out life as a professional hand turner before taking the plunge into pipes, if you are starting out making pipes or simply wood turning for the first time, the best asthetics/results are definately gained doing them in free hand.
Pipe making does entail a certain amount of metalwork which I also think has the edge when done by hand, a metal lathe comes in handy for the engineering parts like threading and precission parts like valve bodies, but for freedom of expression and those flowing curves, free hand has a definate advantage over a fixed tool post.
Take a look at any modern piece of turned furniture and compare it with an antique piece that was made by hand.
As far as the shopsmith goes, if I could afford one I would have one tomorrow, but you can be rest assured it is definately not a jack of all trades and master of none, it is a very well made machine and up to any job in pipe making today.
Davy.
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Not sure why... but it's 2022 and I'm mysteriously baack... - Location: Surlyville
Looks like the they start at $2,500US and go up from there. The Pro model w/ accessories and freight could easily run $4,000US
http://www.shopsmith.com/markvsite/purchase.htm
http://www.shopsmith.com/markvsite/purchase.htm
- Lorenzo
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I owned a shopsmith once (ONCE!).
I'm thinking the serious pipemaking student would want something more permanent, solid, not prone to viberating (stable mounts and lower center of gravity), not needing to change operations several times a day.
It seems like the accuracy and details needed for pipemaking would require a higher level of sophistication, depending on the desired result.
http://www.cornband.org/bagpipes/tools.html
Shown is a solid metal lathe for slow turning both boring and external rough shaping. Also shown is a small wood lathe for high speed sanding, polishing, finsh operations
<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Lorenzo on 2003-02-27 21:25 ]</font>
I'm thinking the serious pipemaking student would want something more permanent, solid, not prone to viberating (stable mounts and lower center of gravity), not needing to change operations several times a day.
It seems like the accuracy and details needed for pipemaking would require a higher level of sophistication, depending on the desired result.
http://www.cornband.org/bagpipes/tools.html
Shown is a solid metal lathe for slow turning both boring and external rough shaping. Also shown is a small wood lathe for high speed sanding, polishing, finsh operations
<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Lorenzo on 2003-02-27 21:25 ]</font>
- Lorenzo
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How come I can't find any web sites that show these same kind of close-up details of machinery, reamers, and processes in making uilleann pipes?
Kevin Scott wrote the following a couple of years ago on another web site (Yahoo Groups): "when I looked into buying my lathe it was recommended to me that I do the following. It is important that you see the attachments and chucks that are available and how they are configured. The drive shaft on the motor or head stock is of importance as it can be various diameters with different threads. Some chuck makers will also make face plates to fit different drive shafts. A very common configuration is a one inch diameter shaft with eight threads per inch, 1"X8TPI. Obviously if you use the metric system this will be different. However, the inside rate of taper in the shaft and at the tail stock is measured differently. These are called Morris Taper. This taper will dictate the kind of attachments that will fit into your drive or tail stock. A Morris taper #2 is a very common taper. The machine you choose should be able to fit chucks and attachments easily. Aside from those things you should see that the drive is powerful enough to work the wood you will be turning. The bed should be very strong with no flex in it. The legs should be sturdy and not easily rocked about. Here in the USA the Delta lathe is the most commonly available that will do everything you would want for pipe turning. Jet makes a copy of this machine for slightly less money. There are larger and more expensive machines available as well. There are also the machine lathes."
EDIT NOTE: Actually I see Martin Preshaw's site shows some new photos of the building process.
http://www.unionpipes.co.uk/
<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Lorenzo on 2003-02-18 04:59 ]</font>
Kevin Scott wrote the following a couple of years ago on another web site (Yahoo Groups): "when I looked into buying my lathe it was recommended to me that I do the following. It is important that you see the attachments and chucks that are available and how they are configured. The drive shaft on the motor or head stock is of importance as it can be various diameters with different threads. Some chuck makers will also make face plates to fit different drive shafts. A very common configuration is a one inch diameter shaft with eight threads per inch, 1"X8TPI. Obviously if you use the metric system this will be different. However, the inside rate of taper in the shaft and at the tail stock is measured differently. These are called Morris Taper. This taper will dictate the kind of attachments that will fit into your drive or tail stock. A Morris taper #2 is a very common taper. The machine you choose should be able to fit chucks and attachments easily. Aside from those things you should see that the drive is powerful enough to work the wood you will be turning. The bed should be very strong with no flex in it. The legs should be sturdy and not easily rocked about. Here in the USA the Delta lathe is the most commonly available that will do everything you would want for pipe turning. Jet makes a copy of this machine for slightly less money. There are larger and more expensive machines available as well. There are also the machine lathes."
EDIT NOTE: Actually I see Martin Preshaw's site shows some new photos of the building process.
http://www.unionpipes.co.uk/
<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Lorenzo on 2003-02-18 04:59 ]</font>
- Rockymtnpiper
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A few years ago I got a Taig Micro Lathe "mini-me" to play around with, get a feel for turning and whatnot. It has a whopping 9" between centers.
I am seriously thinking about a cue stick lathe which uses many Taig parts.. except of course for the 48" bed, 1 3/8" through spindle, twin chucks, taper bar and 1 axis Frog cnc system. Thats how I am going to go about it anyway..
I am seriously thinking about a cue stick lathe which uses many Taig parts.. except of course for the 48" bed, 1 3/8" through spindle, twin chucks, taper bar and 1 axis Frog cnc system. Thats how I am going to go about it anyway..